Replies

1. 
   toolnut | Feb 10, 2003 10:57pm | #1

   My gut reaction was to say drive the screw until it is about 1/4" from the face of the drywall and then get your framing hammer and whack the snot out of it.

   but you wanted serious.

   The tip of the screw gun should drive the screw to the proper depth (if it is a real screw gun) automatically, putting just slightly below the surface creating a dimple for the drywall mud someplace to go and hold on.

   PS: It's nice to know that "snot" is in the spell check dictionary.

1. 
   rez | Feb 11, 2003 01:55am | #5

   So how many 64ths of an inch below the paper should the face of the drywall screw be driven for optimum holding power of the mud coat?Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.

   The other...proper application of risk.

    

    

1. 
   BillHartmann | Feb 11, 2003 02:10am | #6

   Only hack measure that in 1/64.

   Pro's measure it in 0.001 increments.

1. 
   rez | Feb 11, 2003 03:10am | #7

   Get out! Those rulers are too expensive for drywallers.Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.

   The other...proper application of risk.

    

    

1. 
   MisterT | Feb 11, 2003 03:17am | #8

   19-3/16" below thw surface.

   Dats wha dem lil diamonds are fer.

   TDo not try this at home!

   I am a trained professional!

2. 
   BossHog | Feb 10, 2003 11:18pm | #2

   The screw should be slightly below the surface, but should not break the paper. The nose on the gun you bought should ba adjustable. Just play around with it and you'll get a feel for it.

   I like to use a cordless drill for hanging - With one of those cheap screw setting things you can but. (Like they were talking about in the other thread) I have a hook I hang the thing on my belt with, so it's real handy. Then I go back with the drywall screw gun and finish screwing the rest of the sheet.

   Q: What do you get when you divide the diameter of a jack-o-lantern by it's circumference?

   A: Pumpkin Pi

1. 
   Qtrmeg | Feb 11, 2003 12:07am | #3

   Q: What do you get when you divide the diameter of a jack-o-lantern by it's circumference?

   A: Pumpkin Pi

   That's funny, but isn't it backwards? Or did you do it backwards on purpose because this is a drywall thread?

1. 
   BossHog | Feb 11, 2003 12:13am | #4

   Hell, I don't know - I'm no math jenius.

   Just thought it was funny, and copied it into my tag line file without really reading it closely........My inner child is a juvenile delinquent.

3. 
   xMikeSmith | Feb 11, 2003 03:26am | #9

   jim.. couple things.. the nose of the gun is adjustable.. crank it in or out until the screw sets just below the surface.. you shouldn't get a click when you run over it with a 6 " taping knife...

    2d thing is ... most of the guns work best if you pull the trigger to full RPM's, set the trigger lock to "on".. then load and screw without ever turning the gun off..

    the depth  settin on the nose will cam the bit out at the correct depth.. load the next screw and move on

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   bridgetonjim | Feb 11, 2003 03:59am | #10

   Thanks Mike

   I get the idea I will run some trial and errors before I start the real wall hanging.

   Thank for the practical advice.

   Bridgeton Jim

1. 
   CAGIV | Feb 11, 2003 04:22am | #12

   I taught my little cousin how to use the gun this way and it worked

   I built a mock up of a wall out of scrap drywall about 18 inches wide 8 ft tall, I put a bunch of wood back there 2/4's on the flat so there was plenty of space to hit.  Then let him go at it with a box of screws. 

   It helped him learn to use it above his head and below his waist which is what he was having trouble with, he kept pushing to hard and going through the drywall next to the stud with the nose of the gun, but thats a different story.

   Good luck

   One other trick I use is to lock the gun on and hold it around the back at the top of the handle instead of holding the handle itself, it helps me keep it straight, might want to try it might not

   View Image

   Edited 2/10/2003 8:24:34 PM ET by CAG

4. 
   Mooney | Feb 11, 2003 04:11am | #11

   Im glad you bought the screw gun .

   The fine line isnt how much from the surface to sink the screw, its how far it will go before it breaks paper . Work from paper tearing out to camming out on the bit . A screw is simple to fill . Its better thinking to have the drywall tight so the paper tearing is where you want to start . {Then cam out } You will be in front of most hangers if you learn this technigue . You will never have to set a screw with a driver while you are finishing . Now read Mikes post from here .

   Spackle;

   Hit a row of screws in the feild on a downward stroke coating all screws . Come back up with out comming to the pan , troweling up catching the nails for the finish line.  This should be fluid. [down and up like its one motion] Come back to the pan , clean , dip, and doceedoe . Leave the wall clean , it takes prcatice .  Sideways on the knife going down leaving about 2 inches of mud and six inches flat comming up. Leave no edges. Clean, tight , coats. The only time you leave mud on is when you are going over a protrusion but small at that . Have fun and enjoy your tools .

   Tim Mooney