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Hanging Hardie Lap Siding Solo

CombatRescue | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 8, 2005 06:02am

Hey all,

I just received my order of 6 1/4 ” smooth hardie lap siding.  It’s narrower than the stuff I’ve used before, and I found this makes a lot of difference when carrying and installing it.  It’s much more fragile and likes to bend and snap in half much easier than the wider siding.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t get it delivered right next to my project, so each piece has to be carried about 40 feet to the building it’s going on.

I’m thinking of building a little carrier to safely carry 4 or 5 pieces.  Any other suggestions?

Also, what are people’s opinions on the different overlap gauges available?  In the past, I’ve just snapped lines  and was able to hold pieces by myself if I didn’t have help.  I won’t be able to do that with this project, though hiring a day-laboror is always an option, although undesirable.

Thanks in advance!

 

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  1. Faulted1 | Apr 08, 2005 06:36pm | #1

    I just finished a job with the same exact materials.  There is an aluminum carrier available from:

    http://www.snappershear.com/Siding_Carrier/index.htm

    I also used the following:

    http://www.thelaborsaver.com/02insta.html

    Do you vary the reveal to fit above and below windows and doors?  I would only rate these hangers as 'so-so'.  I used a one tee made of 1X4's to hang my siding.

     

    FF

     

    1. CombatRescue | Apr 08, 2005 08:17pm | #2

      Thanks for the links!  I've looked into the labor saver but heard mixed reviews of it.  My biggest problem is that you can't set the reveal to fit above windows & doors, like you mentioned.  I haven't found a tool that will do this yet, so I might have to make my own out of some steel or aluminum.  In the past, I've done it by hand, but the narrow siding is too flimsy to handle effectively.

      Where were you able to purchase that carrier?  None of the "places to buy" links carried it.

      Thanks!

       

      1. steelbuddha | Apr 08, 2005 10:36pm | #3

        Seems like a few 1-bys and some drywall screws would give you a siding carrier in a few minutes.The Malco overlap gauges have worked well when I've used them.Doing siding with one guy REALLY stinks, especially above ground level. Even if all the other guy does is hold an end, it's worth finding/paying somebody.

  2. blue_eyed_devil | Apr 08, 2005 11:23pm | #4

    Andy, I've never used the 6 1/4 stuff, but I have done a lot of the 8'' stuff. I find that if I carry three pieces and hold them on edge, they seem to transfer better than any other combination.

    blue

    Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!

    Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!

    1. CombatRescue | Apr 09, 2005 12:08am | #5

      Yes, that has been my experience too, but I've found it almost impossible to carry 2-3 pieces of the narrow stuff on edge - it's much more difficult than the wide.   It's difficult to explain, but basically it's simply a lot more flimsy than the wide boards.

      1. User avater
        DDay | Apr 09, 2005 01:37am | #6

        What I've done in the past that worked well is to just drag three or four pieces with the back side to the ground.  It will make very minor scratches on the backside but nothing to worry about.  The siding crews around that do fiber cement all do the same.  When you need to carry them over obstacles you can carry the 6 1/4" on edge but its a little tricky.  If your at a site with grass, the dragging doesn't even do minor scratching.

        Also, at the JLC show they have two type of malco gauges, red and blue.  The red were for a set exposure, i.e. 5, 6, 7, 8, etc, the blue gauges have setting (I think) by 1/8 inch increments.  The one difference was that the red has a knob on the top for gripping while the blue ones do not.  They are not on the malco website but I'm sure they are available.  Here's the link to the red http://malco.malcoproducts.com/products/siding-fiber/fcfg.asp

        1. CombatRescue | Apr 09, 2005 03:31am | #7

          Thanks!  Dragging is definitely an option - a short stretch of concrete followed by grass.

          I haven't seen the blue gauge before, either online or at retailers.

          Maybe I need to design and market a totally adjustable overlap gauge, as there doesn't seem to be one on the market at the moment.

           

          1. bobtim | Apr 09, 2005 04:16am | #8

            Yea I think there is an adjustable set of gauges availble, possibly called  gecko or something similar. They wanted 70 bucks for a set.  I bought the 20 buck malcos.  Gotta start soon on my 40 square of hardi-plank

          2. user-166710 | Sep 04, 2006 10:43pm | #15

            It has already been invented. Look on solosider.com

          3. jimxxx | Sep 04, 2006 11:20pm | #16

            Just looked at your web site. That's cool. A lot better than the long stepped frame I had hung on my wall to hold up the other end. We who work alone have to pass on good ideas. It's a different world.If you have a problem, don't just talk do something to set it right.

              Jim Andersen

          4. user-111755 | Sep 05, 2006 02:20am | #17

            Any good ideas on putting up 16 inch by 12 foot Hardie soffit by yourself ?

          5. 741cp | Sep 05, 2006 05:53pm | #18

            Putting up Hardie soffit by yourself-screw a 12'~ 14' 2x4 to the wall under overhang leaving a 3/4" gap for soffit to slip into. Make 2 right angle metal brackets, 2x1 by 1 wide, with a hole in one leg. Screw the 2 brackets to the fascia an arms length from either side of the center of the piece. Set the bracket so that it leaves a 3/8ths gap for soffit. Leave the screw just loose enough so that you can swing the bracket around and up and wedge it against the fascia.Carry your soffit on end, place it flat against the wall with the top edge up tight to the overhang. Swing the bottom edge out and up into place while pushing the back edge into gap between 2x4 and overhang. 2x4 will give enough support to keep soffit from flexing, bending and breaking. Swing your metal brackets down to support front edge. Tighten up the screws on the metal angles holding the front edge to keep them from kicking out while making adjustments and start nailing.Hardest part is getting it up 24' of ladder. Additional brackets might be handy, but I got 24 pieces up using 2. If you're going up rake ends, put a stop block on the lower end of your 2x4 to keep soffit from sliding down. Best not done on a windy day :)

  3. ponytl | Apr 09, 2005 04:35am | #9

    to carry...  a piece of rope with a loop on each end... long enough to loop over about 4 pieces of siding and over your shoulder loops about 6 ft apart

    to hang solo i just bend a piece of 1/16 alum scrap maybe 1" wide  bend with a lip that will  catch the btm edge of the piece be'n hung and lip over the piece just hung bend so u get the exposure you want just remove it when you have nailed to about 4 ft from it and hang it on the piece your nail'n so it's ready for the next... 

    disclaimer....info is worth what ur pay'n for it

    pony

  4. Notchman | Apr 09, 2005 04:43am | #10

    The first three siding jobs with F/C, I did alone and encountered the issues you're dealing with.  The REAL difficulty was transporting a plank with a cutout for a window or door with 2' or 5' of 1 1/2" plank dangling off the end. 

    To begin with, keep it dry;  if it gets damp, it REALLY gets limber. 

    I made a carrier with a piece of 6" X 1/2" ply with a 1 X 2 cleat tacked to the bottom which served to support the plank adequately  and if it had a cut out, I'd stick a 5d shingle nail at the elevation on may carrier to support the strip.  I'd also drive a shingle nail at the desired elevation for the plank to rest one end while I set and nailed the free end.

    As far as the lap, F/C is designed for a 1 1/4" lap, but that is not written in stone.  Regardless of the job, we always make a story pole so develop a spacing that is a best compromise for window and door tops and soffet.  (not unlike laying out stair risers....you can usually get within 1/4" of desired exposure).  And you can also "cheat" the spacing slightly in the field to adjust to out-of-square windows and doors, or if you get a little off in your layout.

    And if you do this again, use Certainteed.  IMO it's a better plank and a little stiffer.  And spring for a helper!

    And if you REALLY want to have fun, put up some Hardy soffet alone.  (great stuff, but best done with 2 people)

     

    1. CombatRescue | Apr 09, 2005 05:02am | #11

      Thanks for the tips everyone!  You guys rock!

       

       

      1. bobtim | Apr 10, 2005 04:11am | #12

        Bump.

        As mentioned in an earlier post, I am soon looking at doing 40 squares solo. Never hung by myself before, but I think it is doable.

        Anymore tips out there?

        Am I an Idiot for even contemplating this?

         

        1. Notchman | Apr 10, 2005 04:39am | #13

          I've done that much and more alone and it's doable but a PITA at times, especially as you get up over your head and start having to work off ladders or scaffolding.

          But you'd be a lot more efficient with help and probably enjoy the project more.

          If for yourself as a HO, get some kid off the local HS wrestling team;  I've found them to be the best workers.  If he's under 18 he can't legally use power tools (silly law IMO).

          If this is for a contract job, get an able helper and run him through a Temp agency.

          4K sq. ft won't take all that long once your trim is ready.

          And your helper can start caulking when you have idle time for him.

        2. RalphWicklund | Apr 10, 2005 06:41am | #14

          I'm half way through a 3600sf job. On the straight runs with minimal cutting and fitting I average just over 3 sq per day and I'm not really in a rush.

          I don't have good pics of the back of this building but production dropped severely because of the many 6-8" cuts to wrap two floors of columns.

          Working off five levels of scaffolding was OK, carrying the Hardie up was slow.

          Marking all the trim with your desired reveal first (storypole helps) speeds up the install.

          When you have a helper the various reveal gauges work very well but with only your own two hands, a knee and some forehead work, the aids can get in the way.

          I use a stainless trim nail to gap my boards. Drive the nail lightly against the trim or at the end of the preceeding board and standing off center to the left ('cause I'm right handed) I place the board against the nail and it will not move when you maintain pressure. One nail into the board, move back to the right, one nail at the end, move to the left, one nail at that end. Then nail off the remaining. I've used a hooked gauge to hold the far end of the board up to the desired reveal but found it to be a wasted step because I needed to gap the boards anyhow and a little nail was just the right gap.

          Also, when you have a helper you don't usually take the time to mechanically gauge the gap and if you allow him/her to eyeball the gap, you will find that their idea of a gap is way different than yours.

           I also take the time to pencil mark the reveal on the previous course on the long runs between trim so I don't have to grow a third hand to handle a gauge.

          Does everybody still use the little 3" wide strip of felt at each butt joint?

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