FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

hanging interior solid core doors

fourquarter | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 25, 2006 06:50am

A friend asked me if I could come show him how to hang a door. He has twelve of them to do. I say sure I will come give a 30 minute lesson and he can hang them with another buddy.

Turns out that his doors are heavy, solid core doors, that are meant to be installed before the drywall, with the finished drywall returning to the jamb.

Now I know that the basics will be the same, but 2″ 16ga. nails wouldn’t hold the hinge side in place until I had the strike side set. And although his framing is pretty good, it’s not perfect, so what do I do about out-of-plumb where his jamb is going to need to protrude past the framing?

My gut reaction is to set the top hinge side and drive a 3″ screw through it, and the other two hinges the same, then pin the strike side with 2-1/2″ nails. Still not sure what to do about the out of plumb problems though.

kh

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. calvin | Jun 25, 2006 09:45am | #1

    Still not sure what to do about the out of plumb problems though.

    First make the frame right.

    A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    Quittin' Time

     

  2. User avater
    NickNukeEm | Jun 25, 2006 03:31pm | #2

    You shimming for plumb, right?  If the RO can be made right, do so, if not, and even if it can, I shim all doors at the hinge locations using a plumb bob.  Solid core doors are also shimmed at the top and bottom of the jambs to counteract the effect of the weight of the door.

    Shim it plumb, set the frame, drive a 2.5-3" wood screw thru each hinge and into the trimmer.  Shim the lock jamb plumb and you're good to go.  Ensure the head jamb is rock steady (shims at the top of each side jamb) or the door will sag over time.

    "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.

  3. PhillGiles | Jun 25, 2006 04:04pm | #3

    If there's enough clearance, back the hinge side of the jam with ply to stop it twisting from the weight of the door.

    .
    Phill Giles
    The Unionville Woodwright
    Unionville, Ontario
    1. calvin | Jun 25, 2006 04:44pm | #4

      what do I do about out-of-plumb where his jamb is going to need to protrude past the framing?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

      Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

      Quittin' Time

       

      1. ponytl | Jun 25, 2006 04:58pm | #5

        a block of wood and a large/sledge hammer will often move a bottom plate to where it should be...

        I just learned from this post to shim BOTH sides at the head jam...  makes a ton of sense...just never did it  as a practice before....  exactly why i read every post...

        p

      2. fourquarter | Jun 25, 2006 06:59pm | #6

        I assume you highlighted those words because you didn't understand what I meant. Getting the door plumb left-to-right is no problem, because I can shim it. However,getting the door plumb front-to-back, is another issue. With these doors, because the jamb depth is the same as the depth of the trimmers, the front-to-back plumb is a little trickier matter. If the trimmers are out of alignment from one another even 1/4" it turns into a problem. I hope this clarifies what I meant.kh

        1. fourquarter | Jun 25, 2006 07:07pm | #7

          Thanks for the help everyone. THis is what I'm thinking for my proceedure.1) I'll shim the hinge side framing plumb ( I use a level instead of a plumb bob).
          2) Set the door in place hinge side and screw it off through the hinge plates.
          3) then can I set the strike side flush with the framing on that side and then adjust with a sledge and block
          4) then set the head jamb with shims and nailsor does that seem to bass-ackward. The framing all looks pretty good, but not good enough that the door will hit correctly on the stop without some adjustment to the framing.Lastly, if I do wind up adjusting the trimmers with a sledge, will running a couple of sinkers through the bottom plate be enough to hold things in place? kh

        2. calvin | Jun 25, 2006 08:36pm | #10

          I highlighted them because the others didn't understand your opening is off front to back.  Figured they missed it.

          I suggested you whop or toenail over or maybe reset the wall if it's that off to bring the framing into plane and make it plumb.  Now the door jamb can run with the framing and the drywall returns will be straight up right like you'd like it.  You can certainly fudge with flat taping or L bead a little bit of goof.  That's the beauty of drywall returns.  You want that jamb true so the door doesn't open or close itself.

          We on the same page?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

          Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

          Quittin' Time

           

      3. User avater
        NickNukeEm | Jun 25, 2006 07:23pm | #8

        If you can't realign the plate/wall, you might consider shaving both of the protruding jambs.  This would create tapered jambs on the one side, but that also means that the jambs are now inset into the framing on the opposite side an equal amount that was shaved off. Tapered extension jambs would be required to get the jambs flush to the framing.

        If the DW is to be returned to the jambs, isn't it easier to make the DW conform to the jambs, rather than working to get the jambs flush with the framing?

        Either way, there will be some taper effect, unless the door is hung in the RO to conform to the out-of-plumb condition of the walls.  Or you have a really good tape/mud guy.

         

         "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.

        1. calvin | Jun 25, 2006 08:32pm | #9

          Nick, you know I don't have any doors to hang right?

           A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

          Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

          Quittin' Time

           

          1. User avater
            NickNukeEm | Jun 25, 2006 09:05pm | #12

            If you have the time, I've got a few you can hang.  : )

            Yep.

             "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.

  4. jrnbj | Jun 25, 2006 08:49pm | #11

    "with the finished drywall returning to the jamb."

    As in, no trim at all ?
    Can't see it from my house, thank goodness...bad plan w/solid core doors, IMHO, for exactly the reasons you are thinking about...
    The framing has to be plumb in the direction perpendicular to the wall (you knew that already) to make the drywall look good-sledge hammers & sawzalls get that done.
    Then I'd hang the jambs just like always, shim 'em, tack 'em in w/the finish nailer on the hinge side (shoot through a shim scrap so they don't sink), hang the door & do the strike side...if you don't go hanging on the door too much, a few tacks at each hinge will hold it enough to get the strike side good, & then nail it off, in my experience...

  5. User avater
    trout | Jun 25, 2006 09:23pm | #13

    Staingrade or paint?

    Long-term survival of heavy doors and trimless jambs is tough enough without bad framing.

    Regardless of what the framing is doing, it's most often the best fix to plan on attaching the door jamb plumb and level, even if that means framing adjustments in, out, up, down, crosswise, or whatnot.

    Most walls can be fixed enough to get by, but some can not.  In those cases it might be necessary to adjust the jamb so the visual indicators appear verticle in relation to the sheetrock.  Perhaps the jamb would have to be extended with an attached taper or something along those lines.

    Like the others have said, if the framing can't be fixed it's most often easier to get sheetrock to meet the doors, rather than the other way around.

    As for the hinges, do what you need to get a solid attachment since the trim won't be there to firm up the jamb.  Sometimes on a trim-free jamb this can mean using longer or more screws, sometimes it's inletting a hardwood block behind the jamb at the hinge locations, sometimes it's using hidden screws under the door stop, and sometimes it's all of the above with a little pl10 for good measure.

    If the sheetrock is already up and the jambs just won't cover completely to the rock, it's a matter of poor planning and the sheetrockers will just have to come back and fill the gaps.

    If the sheetrock isn't up yet, there isn't an excuse for not fixing the framing before the doors go in.

    Good building

    1. fourquarter | Jun 26, 2006 01:19am | #14

      Trout,these are all stain-grade doors, and the framing is not that bad, maybe in places out 1/4" at the height of the door. I've never hung a trimless door, nor have I seen one in person. Though I thought that the jamb usually had a kerf in it to accept the L-bead (or whatever it might be called that attaches to the drywall), but these don't. Apparently the drywall guy told the GC not to have them kerfed and he would just butt up to the jamb. I can't figure how he's going to butt up if the door is not even with the framing. So should I hang the door with a good reveal and then smack the framing around so that it meets the door stop evenly, or should I smack the framing around and then hang the door? How much wiggle room does the drywall guy have?Thanks for all the help everyone!kh

      1. BillBrennen | Jun 26, 2006 02:26am | #15

        You should smack framing first, before hanging any doors.The kerf-inserted bead is way superior to what your drywall guy wants to do. When I did a job with this style of jamb, I set the jambs with full shims all sides, then hung the doors after the drywall was finished.On advantage of the setup I did was that the drywall had a bullnose return to the jamb, and the jamb was the width of the stud. 2x4 studs in wall = 1x4 jambs.The kerf happens where the outer screws on the hinge fall, so it is best to hang the door after the bead has been inserted and stabilized. My doors were solid core flush, and they look great after 3 years of use. This is in a rental apartment.Bill

        1. User avater
          trout | Jun 26, 2006 07:12am | #16

          I'm with you Bill.  Fixing the framing first makes the most sense.  It sounds like the sheetrocker is trying to take the easy way out and simply float some mud to the edge of the jamb, which won't produce a reveal as crisp and even.

          Trimless jambs seem like one of those things that either has to be done right from the framing onward or it really looks bad even after considerable effort.

          Cut straight.

          1. fourquarter | Jun 29, 2006 03:20am | #17

            Went back to my friends place with all my newly aquired knowledge. Wound up hanging the hinge side plumb and flush, tacked with 2" nails, then setting it solidly with 3" screws through the hinges. Then took a 10lb. "persuader" to the strike side and tapped it until the door and stop met in holy union. Every now and then took a power planer and dressed up the trimmers.It all went well. Thanks again to everyone for the input.kh

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

A Practical Perfect Wall

Getting the details right for a wall assembly with the control layers to the exterior and lots of drying potential.

Featured Video

How to Install Exterior Window Trim

Learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation.

Related Stories

  • Midcentury Home for a Modern Family
  • The New Old Colonial
  • Modern and Minimal in the Woods
  • Bryce Hollingsworth, Dry-Stone Waller

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 333 - August/September 2025
    • A Practical Perfect Wall
    • Landscape Lighting Essentials
    • Repairing a Modern Window Sash
  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data