Replies

1. 
   DanH | Apr 12, 2005 12:12am | #1

   1) How much you replace will depend on the difficulty of removal and the availability of matching pieces.

   2) Check some smaller yards in your area. They may have a few pieces hiding under a tarp somewhere. Or ask your neighbors -- someone may have a few pieces stashed. Also, keep your eyes open for anyone stripping similar siding off a house.

   Keep in mind that, while Hardi siding will not be the exact same profile, it will often be close enough for such a spot (that is not easily examined up close). So consider using Hardi or another brand of fiber cement siding. In a pinch you can use wood siding, or even slice T1-11 into pieces of the appropriate width.

   3) Unless the flashing is deteriorating, it shouldn't need replacement. It should be "step flashing", made of individual "tin shingles" and interleaved between the shingles, not under them. Likely it has been nailed between the shingles and will not be easy to remove anyway.

   If the shingles seem to be badly rusted, paint them with a rust-preventing paint.

   4) There should be at least 1" and preferably 2" between the roof surface and the bottom edge of the siding. If the tin shingles don't rise much above the 2" point, consider placing a length of roll flashing (maybe 6-8" wide) against the wall, over the tin shingles and under the siding.

   5) Fully prime (alkyd primer) and paint (good exterior acrylic) the cut ends of the boards, and the backs up at least 4" above the cut.

   6) Fully prime (and possibly first-coat paint) the cut ends where butt joints will occur. Make these factory ends where possible. Either use aluminum joiner strips, or space for caulking (approx 1/8") and caulk once installed. It's a good idea to tack an extra piece of roofing felt behind each joint, making it lap over the front edge of the piece below slightly.

   7) #8 galvanized "box" siding nails for the siding, unless the supplier of the new pieces recommends something else. Some folks will prefer ring shank, but it likely doesn't matter here since you'll be replacing the whole shebang in the not too distant future. Where joining to existing pieces, though, you may need the next size up (#10) if you nail through existing holes.

   For the flashing, roofing nails of sufficient length to reach through any sort of fiber sheathing and hit the studs -- generally 1-1/2".

   And you didn't ask how to get the old pieces off. If the siding is nailed at the bottom edges it's usually easiest. You work a thin pry bar under the siding edge near each nail and pry out, then whack the siding piece back into place sharply. Usually this will leave the nail head sticking out, so you can very easily pull it.

   For "blind" nails (nailed at the top, under the piece above), a "shingle thief" can be helpful. It allows you to more easily pull the nails holding a piece below without having to lift (too much) the piece above. You first use a pry bar to get the siding a little loose, then slip the thief up under the piece you're removing and hook the nail. A sharp tap on the other end of the thief yanks the nail out sideways.

   8) I didn't know your current state of sanity or insanity had anything to do with it! If you weren't already crazy you'd be browsing the pictures on the Sports Illustrated swimsuit site instead of hanging around here.

   Actually, unless the location is a real bear, this is the sort of job that can be fairly enjoyable. You can take your time with it, making an entire weekend (or two) project out of it, and your wife can't object that you're being selfish. Unless you're rushing against hurricane season or some such, there's no real hurry -- if you don't get the siding back right away, just tack up some plastic and lath until next weekend. Good excuse to buy some tools, too. Enjoy yourself!

2. 
   Shoeman | Apr 12, 2005 02:24am | #2

   You say some of this is damaged up to 5' back from where it hits the roof?

   If it were just the very ends by the roof - up to 6-8" you could just cut the old siding off parallel to the roof and install a 1x6 - 1x12 cedar board running under the siding, parallel to the roof.  Still keep it about an inch off the shingles.  One guy I worked with did this all the time on new construction even - made it easy to pull that one board to reflash when putting on new shingles.

   Just a thought - won't likely work for you, if the damage is as extensive as you say.

1. 
   wbatespg | Apr 12, 2005 04:37pm | #3

   Say Shoeman:

   This idea may just work.  The damage is not really that extensive.  I just thought that replacing 5 or more feet each would allow me to do a better jobof staggering the additional joints that would be created during the repair.  This is on the "short" side(gable end) of the house, and due to the placement of the window, roofline, etc. in the field of the entire wall, there are presently only three rows out of the whole 2 story side that have joints.  I just happen to have a 6 foot piece of cedar siding in the garage (the back of the house is stained cedar and I needed to fix a small spot).  The cedar is smooth on one side and rough sawn on the other.  One issue will be the thickness - I'll have to see if they match.  Hopefully, the bevel will match, too.  I hope that due to the location of the repairs, it will be far enough away from "prying eyes" that the difference of materials will not be noticable (the absolute smoothnes of the hardboard v. the slight texture of the "smooth" side of the cedar).

   Wendell Bates

    

1. 
   CombatRescue | Apr 12, 2005 05:46pm | #4

   If the damage isn't too bad, you could repair it with epoxy.  Once you get used to it, epoxy is easy to work with and is wonderful stuff.  I've had adhesion problems with the "bondo" type of products, which aren't true epoxies, so I stick with a true 2-part epoxy.  I've never used in on hardboard, but I would think it might work for you.

   Andy

1. 
   DanH | Apr 12, 2005 06:46pm | #5

   I seriously doubt whether you could get a decent bond to deteriorating hardboard siding. There's no "there" there to bond to.