I just visited their website and they have a decent looking product. Any tricks to using it on a walkout basement(icf)? Do they make a roofing shingle? Thanks alot.
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Replies
ICFs - plastic or metal webs?
Some like to blind screw the clapboards, (predrilling of course) but others claim ring shank roofing nails (nail gun) will hold as well. I will be siding our ICF home soon...I will try the roofing nails first, since it will be so much faster.
Chauncey
I think they recommend vertical strapping first. PITA.
Ron
James Hardie does make a good product. They tested the market on a roof shingle but decided not to get into that market.
The only ICF foundations I have built were ARXX and they use screws to blind-nail siding to the 8" on-center fastening strips on the formblocks.
The screws we've used for F/C set flush and the attachment is much tighter than you typically get nailing F/C to conventional wood construction.
I'd be doubtful about using roofing nails to attach siding to an ICF wall.
Of course, if you're using some other brand of formblock, the manufacturer would be best place to ask.
i sided a polysteel house a few years ago
metal web ties
what a pain in azz- had to drag myself every morning to the job,
ss screws with ss washers blind screwed
any one ever askes me to do one again i would have to say no comprende
The thing about ICFs is - they are so different, we aren't sure how to think about them. I pulled a sheet of osb off an ICF wall the other day (forgot two screws) the osb gave way before the screws would pull out of the plastic webs.
As for strapping - I have strapping - it came embedded in the ICFs 1/2 under the foam. I am amazed at how the plastic webbing holds screws. I think ring shank nails are just screws with no incline to the plane...
The roofing nail tip came from these guys: http://www.connecticutcustomhomebuilder.com/
I'm definitely trying the nails before I spend a month predrilling siding.
If you get the right screws, they're self-tapping and you don't have to predrill.
I may end up there - but the thought of a squirrelly piece of siding in one hand, a screw in the other, and an impact driver in the third has me checking out the gun option.
And the fiber cement helper hangers won't adjust to story stick variations.
Maybe two gun nails in each piece, then self tappers to finish the piece. But I remain suprised and impressed with the holding power of the icf webs.
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
Are you hanging siding by yourself?
I did my first couple jobs hanging it alone, but never again (I hope).
And you're right; those webs have tremendous holding power!
Bringing an old thread to life with a slight variation....my current home is ICF with vinyl siding...easy. Has anyone put cedar claps on ICF? The basement of our new home will be Polysteel, and I'm not sure yet whether to carry the cedar down the walk-out portion, or use a different material like cultured stone on mesh. Coursing would be easier with the different material, as I could start all of the claps at a constant elevation. Would you put a rain screen behind the claps or just let the polysteel shed the water...it should be waterproof from a wind-driven rain standpoint, but I would not want moisture trapped behind the claps with nowhere to go. If I use cultured stone I could also do all above grade portions with this material, eliminating the stucco. Does someone make a curtured stone header big enough for over the windows? Any input is very much appreciated.
The only ICFs I've done were the ARXX blocks. Subsequently, from attending their training, we attached Certainteed F/C planks with flush head screws driven into the plastic reinforcements. The resulting attachment is very strong and, IMO, better than one achieves with nails into conventional wood sheathing.
ARXX claims that their foam formulation eliminates the need for vapor barriers as the foam provides a water vapor permience of 3.50 perms.
I can't speak with experience to the use of cedar claps, but I doubt that a rain screen would be necessary. I believe you would be safe nailing the cedar claps to the ICF reinforcements. The foam on each side is typically 2 1/4" thick so, if it was me, I'd probably use an 1 3/4 ringshank SS siding nail.
I have installed cultured stone on ICF walls, screwing self-furring metal lath to the reinforcement strips (self-furring is the lath with the dimples, which go against the ICF wall).
As far as a cultured stone header: I don't know of any single pieces large enough to span a window of any size. I have used 16"X20" paving stones ripped to make long pieces that, when mortared end-to-end, will serve the purpose (cultured stone is not very structural). I don't know that you'd want to use a real stone in that application unless you'd done your ICF wall with that in mind (steel lintel reinforcement) and while it's doable retroactively it might be a bit of a task with some potential pitfalls.
Another thing you can do, especially if your using thinner stones in the field. like the flagstone style or river rock, is get your supplier to provide you with an assortment of 3" X (your choice) of stones from a 'ledgestone" collection. These stones tend to project about 2" to 2 1/2" inches and can be set as "soldiers on lintels and arches.
I've also used fired pavers (cut to size to suit me) as capstones and lintels.
Thanks for the information. I think we're leaning towards stone just to break up the wall expanse. I would also use this for the 12" exposure all the way around. There is a very small strip over the windows and door, so I think it might acutally look better to run the stone vertical at the jambs and put a trim board over the window instead. How would you transition to the cedar? Would I need to rip a 2x2 with a slightly sloping water table on top and then flash between this and the stone? Would you need a drip kerf with the flashing below?