Going to build a “smokehouse” for DW’s kiln (now that the fountain’s in). Just for fun, it will be all non-flammable. 10′ square, vertical board and batten Hardi-plank over metal studs and diagonal (for bracing) Z-channel. No windows; metal door on one face. Pyramidal roof and a little pyramidal-roofed cupola for a heat vent.
But –
How can I attach the Hardi to the Z-channel? On wood I use roofing nails at the edges, covering them with the batten strips held with galv. finishing nails. I think sinking screws would split the edges off.
Thought maybe I’d screw the all the tops to a horizontal ledger, and let the Hardi hang, clamping and gluing with PL or Liquid Nails, but then what about the battens?
I’m sure one of you’s done this . . .
Forrest – consulting the oracle
Edited 8/12/2007 4:11 pm by McDesign
Replies
I have never atttached hardie to metal studs but would think that self tapping flat head screws would be the ticket. What are the batts going to be made of? If they are to be wood I would try a small head stainless steel screw? One potential problem with SS screws is they are fairly soft and may not penetrate the steel frame before becoming too dull if the steel is a heavy gauge. I think I would avoid glue if at all possible. Just my .02
Well, then either I've got to put the screws in the middle of the boards, where they'd show, or at the edges, where they'd kick up the batten strip. _The diagonal battens will be metal, and are shaped like this _!
How's that for ASCII art?!
Forrest
I like your illustration. lol. So if I understand correctly the battens will be metal? and how wide will they be? If you can keep the screws about 1/2 to 5/8 from the edge I would think they would hold fine.
Or, i may be understanding a little better what you are thinking, If you did attach the hardie at the top and were able to get some glue that would hold up, then attach the battens with screws over the joints that would help hold it all together. I am wondering what the temp inside the smoker would get to? That was my main concern with glue and fumes doing bad things to what you are smoking.
The self tappers with flat heads work fine. Just don't set thehat channel so the screws are close to the plank ends
someone posted the other day that on even on the tract houses they used screws on the hardie board... i'm think'n they said they pre drilled it...
why not just get the 4x8 or 4x9 sheets of hardie and then apply your battens... i'm think'n some type poly construction glue like a PL product or Vulkem with a maybe a fastener top bottom & middle? letting your batten cover your screws...
what i have a problem with is that most Z type perlin/channel is pretty light weight and while it holds drywall well it doesn't hold well with self drilling screws in the lighter gauges .... with the sheet good hardie I think you could do away with them and just screw to the studs... if you used a 2x wood plate top & bottom (attaching your metal stud channels to that) it would give you 2 good attaching places (top & btm)
p
When I attached the 5/16 Hardy sheet to my exterior walls, I just used the same cement board screws you use to attach Hardy panel to the bathroom studs. They are #8 x 1" to 1.25" I think, with a big flat head... and yes you do have to be carful near the edges.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Oh, good Lord, no. But I can give him two dollars and an assault rifle.
Okay - I wound up using the neoprene-washer metal roofing screws - they worked great, and cushioned the clamping, so no splitting near the edges - I experimented with countersunk head screws, and they blew out my skinny battens more often than not.
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Forrest
Edited 9/26/2007 7:43 pm by McDesign