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Yes you do need the Hi-Lo screws for Hardiboard. These screws have a larger shank diameter and head size, as well as alternating high and low threads for easier driving and better holding power. They are also specially coated to resist rust.
Hardiboard is tough stuff. Regular drywall screws will shear off when driving through this stuff and will rust out long before the material fails. The material can be nailed with hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails but screws will give a much longer-lasting installation.
Use a heavy-duty screw gun and buy plenty of extra bits. Pre-drilling and countersinking will make driving the screws infinitely easier. Make sure all heads are flush with surface for better and easier tile installation.
The material can be scored and broken, but I’ve never had much luck with this method. It is easier to cut with a circular saw and either a masonry, carbide-tipped or diamond blade. It kicks up plenty of dust though so be sure to wear a mask.
I can’t comment much on your application since I’m not familiar with the specifics. The material performs well in vertical situations so I don’t think the metal lath is necessary. A solid substrate underneath the material is important though since it needs to be fully supported along its entire surface (for flooring I think manuf. recommends 1 1/4 minimum substrate).
Hardiboard is an excellent product, and the manufacturer puts out a useful brochure full of installation “dos & don’ts”. Check your home center or tile supplier or contact Hardy online.
Best of luck
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Yes you do need the Hi-Lo screws for Hardiboard. These screws have a larger shank diameter and head size, as well as alternating high and low threads for easier driving and better holding power. They are also specially coated to resist rust.
Hardiboard is tough stuff. Regular drywall screws will shear off when driving through this stuff and will rust out long before the material fails. The material can be nailed with hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails but screws will give a much longer-lasting installation.
Use a heavy-duty screw gun and buy plenty of extra bits. Pre-drilling and countersinking will make driving the screws infinitely easier. Make sure all heads are flush with surface for better and easier tile installation.
The material can be scored and broken, but I've never had much luck with this method. It is easier to cut with a circular saw and either a masonry, carbide-tipped or diamond blade. It kicks up plenty of dust though so be sure to wear a mask.
I can't comment much on your application since I'm not familiar with the specifics. The material performs well in vertical situations so I don't think the metal lath is necessary. A solid substrate underneath the material is important though since it needs to be fully supported along its entire surface (for flooring I think manuf. recommends 1 1/4 minimum substrate).
Hardiboard is an excellent product, and the manufacturer puts out a useful brochure full of installation "dos & don'ts". Check your home center or tile supplier or contact Hardy online.
Best of luck
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Yes you do need the special screws.
I have never had any problem scoring and breaking.
I get the feeling you are trying to use expanded metal lath with the tile applied directly to it in thinset. Metal lath is for application of mortar backing. If you are going to float the risers, you might as well float the treads. DO NOT try to attach tile directly to metal lath with thinset. The thinset shrinks too much. There are many things that can go wrong when this happens, including the tile breaking.
*The two previous posts have good pointers. However, I wouldn't bother with "predrilling and countersinking". The Hardibacker underlayment you'll likely use is only 1/4" thick, so what are we talking here? Also, while a screw gun is the way to do, I don't think more than a couple of bits are needed. Getting the right size bit for the screw is most important. Just take care to seat the bit in the screw head and use moderate pressure to keep it seated. Back off if the bit starts slipping.Funny thing, Mike mentions not to apply thinset directly to metal lath. This is now an approved TCA installation method. Personally, I agree with Mike in avoiding this method. You'll do fine to use Hardibacker on all surfaces to be tiled.For screws I use a bronze alloy triple thread 1 1/4 - 1 1/2" long. They are a bit more expensive, but I get them in bulk so there is a savings, to me at least. For a screw--or nail, for that matter--to achieve maximum holding power, the head needs to be in contact with a solid surface. But they don't need to be flush or countersunk. Think about it; you will probably use a notch trowel to apply thinset. What is the size of the notch; what is the total height of the srew head above the Hardibacker?For tiling stair treads and risers, I install the Hardibacker on all risers first, right to the full height minus 1/8". The Hardibacker for the treads then is cut to width to allow "lipping out" over the treads. Be sure the wood treads and risers are flat before you install Hardibacker. Remove any carpet tacks or staples, globs of paint or wood sealer, etc. The Hardibacker will mirror the imperfections of the substrate, especially if you use too many srews. For a srew pattern, I use two screws every 6"; one at the nose of the tread and one at the back. A third screw goes in the center at every 8". Repeat this pattern for the risers. For adhesive for the Hardibacker, I use a mastic applied with a 1/8" V-notch trowel. The V-notch should be 3/16 - 1/4" if the wood substrate is not completly flat.
*Hey Hey Hey!!! Thanks for all the good advice! Ok I'll admit that I was "chumpin" out on the risers, just thought I could save a couple of bucks by using the lath....Yes, I know better!! Thanks for shaming me!! I have noticed on the displays at Home Depot that they show the Hardibacker applied with thinset, I would have thought mastic would have been used, and now I see, Rich, that you also use the mastic. Would this be a typical tile mastic that I would use? Oh and thanks SO much for the screw pattern advice.....my husband will be quite pleased!!!Donna
*Donna, I hope this is not an exterior application. Hardibacker is not recommended (and therefore, not warranteed) by the manufacturer for exterior use. Hardibacker is intended solely as an interior product.
*Rich, et al:Ive never used Hardibacker but am thinking about giving it a try on a shower surround I have coming up. OK, or would you still recommend using cement backerboard. Is the stud prep the same? TIA.Dave
*The only time I use a tile underlayment board, such as Hardibacker, is for interior floors where a rise in elevation would be a problem. Otherwise, I float a mud setting bed for everything.Incidently, of all the backerboards available, the 1/4" thick Hardibacker is my favorite, for many reasons. I mean, there is no second choice.
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I have never used "Hardibacker" before. I will be using it over a raised wood entry and also on the treads of my stairs. Do I REALLY need to use the "Hardibacker" screws, or will drywall screws of the same length suffice? Also any handy "Hardi" tips would be appreciated!
I also plan on facing the risers of my stairs with expanded metal(instead of the Hardibacker), so as to give the tile a bit more "grip" when applied, what thinks you?
Thanks,
Donna