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Hardie cuts and primer?

Heath568 | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 26, 2006 04:27am

I went up to an old clients house today to bid a small paint job on a carriage house out back. I have worked on their house several times fixing general items but doing mostly painting. They finally broke down and got the rot and termite damage fixed on the carriage house and have a crew putting new hardie on the outside. The crew was there working and about halfway done while I was talking to the owner. It’s not a big house and shouldn’t take me a few days to knock out good two coats of Duration.

<!—-><!—-> <!—->

I haven’t installed Hardie before but I noticed they were not priming the ends of the cuts and then putting them up. There was no visible gap and the ends butted up neatly. I asked the builder if that was standard and he said it was what they had always done. After I came home and read the website I’m confused.

<!—->  <!—->

Is this okay to not prime the cuts? What will happen? I’m going to put two good coats of duration on by hand so I get a good layer. Being a uninsulated carriage house I was concerned about moisture migrating through the siding in the winter. This is a good long time customer and I want this work to look as good as the house I painted 10 years ago.

 

I’m probably worrying about nothing…..

<!—->  <!—->

Thanks

Heath

 

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  1. WayneL5 | Aug 26, 2006 10:00pm | #1

    Hardie has no end grain like wood does and will not swell when damp.  I believe it's fine to not prime the edges.

    In no case should you use oil based primer on Hardie.  100% acrylic is what the manufacturer recommends.  I don't know what primer, if any, Duration takes.

    1. edwardh1 | Aug 27, 2006 02:17am | #2

      and in the recent paint tests Duration, and most of the other SherW paints came out poorly, like Last.

      1. mikeingp | Aug 27, 2006 02:25am | #3

        What recent paint tests? (I just painted my house with Duration, love that paint!)

        1. edwardh1 | Aug 27, 2006 02:32am | #4

          Consumer reports - several year length tests

          1. mikeingp | Aug 27, 2006 05:12am | #7

            and in the recent paint tests Duration, and most of the other SherW paints came out poorly, like Last.

            I disagree. According to the Consumer Reports' web site , Sherwin Williams Exterior Duration is currently being tested, and is holding up very well (solid red dot) after 3 years in the "Initially promising" section.

            In the June 2006 issue of CR, Exterion Duration is not listed (since, presumably, testing had not finished). Only one Sherwin Williams product is listed, a latex stain. It is listed dead last, but it is not Duration, in fact, it's not even a paint.

            I can also tell you that in terms of application (brush and roller), Duration is a very fine paint indeed. I tried a couple of gallons of the highest quality Benjamin Moore and Pratt & Lambert before settling on Duration to paint my house.

        2. WayneL5 | Aug 27, 2006 06:13pm | #10

          In the September 2006 issue, page 46 ff, Duration was rated dead last.  But the test was for interior paints.  Duration scored very well as an exterior paint in earlier tests, I believe.

          As an interior paint Duration scored highly on hiding, poorly on fading, mildew, gloss change, and staining.

          1. edwardh1 | Aug 27, 2006 11:12pm | #12

            what surprised me was many of the "box" store paints that were less expensive scored near the top.

      2. Heath568 | Aug 27, 2006 03:52am | #6

        Well I wasnt wanting to turn this into a what paint is best rant....

        I shouldnt have mentioned the paint brand I guess......  Its like starting a motor oil thread.

        " I have driven my car 20000miles on recycled floor wax and it runs great!!!!!"

        (Flame on!!)

        Really.... the unintentional use of the term Duration was not intended to harm small woodland creatures or thier families....

        Someone can say its $#&* today because I have been doing part time small jobs for the last 3 years but I have well over 1000 gallons sitting on some houses for up to 10 years that I stand behind. It was good then.

        But it comes down to this... If someone wants Duration... I'll paint it and warranty my work. If the want some Ben Moore, same thing.... If they want tinted dog spit brushed thier house with Q-tips... I'll do that too, but the price goes up and the warranty is out.

        paint what makes ya frisky buddy....

        Heath

        1. Snort | Aug 27, 2006 05:14am | #8

          I'm supposing you're caulking all the butt joints, which ought to be gapped...that's worked for us. I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head

    2. Heath568 | Aug 27, 2006 03:36am | #5

      OK...I didnt think it would make much difference but the web site says to do it.

      I wanted to make sure it wouldnt cause a problem down the road.

       

      Thanks for the input.

      Heath

      1. r | Aug 28, 2006 02:09am | #13

        My printed copy of Hardieplank installation instructions (dated January 2005) says nothing about priming cut edges, so I thought you were wrong.  But, you're right, the installation instructions on the website are now dated December 2005, and they do say to prime the cut edges.

  2. chascomp | Aug 27, 2006 04:34pm | #9

    I've installed a lot of Hardie board including stucco sheets. I gap the butt joints 1/16th in with felt behind the gap. I caulk the joint with a good elastic caulk and finish with two coats of Duration. I have one job that is 8 years old and (I stopped by and asked) there are no problems what so ever. The customer is very happy. I never primed the boards or the edges or even the backs.

  3. GRCourter | Aug 27, 2006 06:30pm | #11

    Just so that I would not end up with voids, doing the job alone, I put a bead of Geocel 2300 on the end of one pc of HB before I butted the next one up to it.  But, it doesn't have end grain and a good paint job should seal the joint.

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