Hello All,
I would appreciate some help and or opinions on putting Hardie Plank over my existing siding.
The existing construction: Central Ohio house built in 1976 with 2×4 framed walls with diagonal 1x4s every so often, 1″ thick rigid foam T&G, then 1/2″ cedar plywood siding (the cedar is grooved with the grooves/saw curfs running vertically).
My plan: cover existing cedar in Tyvek (or similar) and attach Hardie Plank with some 3 1/2″ galvanized nails. I plan on locating the 2×4 studs to nail into.
Questions:
1) Is this a sound/good idea? Why or why not? If not, please offer an alternative.
2) Can I use my FR-350 to nail the Hardie Plank or should I invest in another nailer with a better depth adjustment? (I’m already leaning towards getting another nailer, but need some help to persuade my better half.) <G>
This house was listed by the seller as a “soft contemporary” and is THE only “butt-ugly conteporary” in our neighborhood of 35 houses. It sticks out like a sore thumb. I’m thinking that the horizontal lines of the Hardie Plank will go a lonq way in making our house fit in better.
Thanks!!
Mike
“sometimes even measure twice – cut once is not good enough……”
Replies
I'm surprised - no one here has an opinion? Amazing :)
Have you done a search? We've discussed fiber cement quite a bit in the last six weeks or so.
I was a little reluctant to jump in on this one because in the region I live in, the climate is mild and one seldom sees foamboard under siding unless it's vinyl or driv-it, so removal of old siding might be more of a task than what I'm familiar with.
That being said, IMHO siding over siding has no appeal to me as a renovation technique for a couple of reasons: 1, if you're upgrading your home, regardless of age, removing the old siding will not only give you some insights into the condition of your structure (I have found rot in some of the most unlikely places and solid structure in some of the most suspect areas), but enable you to do some other upgrades as well, such as putting in another outdoor outlet or hiding some TV or phone wires in the walls, etc. 2. While I really like the fiber cement products, they're somewhat thin (5/16" ) and limber across their length and tend to telegraph uneven wall lines so just putting them up against an existing siding like T-111, unless it's pretty straight and flat could leave you with marginal results in spite of your effort.
Thanks, JoeH and Notchman.
Since you guys replied - I'll give you a little treat (?) a before picture of our house and a current pic.
I'll skip the tyvek - don't really want the cost if it's of little to no added benefit. And as for the siding, I'll contact Hardie and see what they have to say. I may try a test-run on one side of the house......see how wavy it gets.
I'm not sure that the 2" siding nails will have enough holding strenth going through the existing foam (and possibly existing siding).
Thanks again!! Much appreciated
Mike
Ah ha! Picture is worth a thousand words. Seeing it now illustrates that your plank runs are going to be short (assuming you're staying with the existing trim scheme). If that's the case, I wouldn't be so worried about the waviness....(I was picturing this tract home with a 48' straight wall along the back).
So I'll soften my opinion a little. You might just go with what you were originally thinking of doing....siding over the t-111. I'd still make a few exporatory cutouts to check the structure and/or make any modifications like I mentioned before.
Nevertheless, if it was mine and I could afford it, I'd still take the old siding off and start fresh.
Whatever you decide I think you'll be pleased with the transformation the plank will make on your home.
Have fun!!!
Mike, you have a vapor barrier in the foam. It may not be a completely sealed VB, but it is there. Another layer, the Tyvek is not a good idea.
I think you'll be needing a coil nailer that will take some 2" siding nails, putting big ol galvanized spikes through the Hardie and into the studs sounds like a "ain't gonna work" idea to me. For one thing, I am guessing the siding will grow waves as it and the existing siding are pulled in as you nail it, IF those giant nails don't tear the edge right off.
Maybe customer service at Hardie would have some experience with your situation.
"Soft Contemporary" ............amazing the BS salesman come up with. Good luck, Joe H
Are you sure the existing siding is 1/2" and not 5/8" thick?
If it is 5/8" thick, (heck, I'd even do it with 7/16" thick) I'd personally install #30 felt on the existing siding, and install the cement siding right on top of that. The felt will act as a sort of water shield, and as a added vapor barrier.
Since you are dealing with WOOD behind the cement siding, and this wood can get wet if moisture works it's way past the siding, then adding the felt gives some extra insurance against rot of the exisitng siding later on down the road. The wind and sun ain't gonna help dry it out if it gets moisture back there. It will just stay moist and then rot. The use of a rain screen in this case wouldn't be out of the question either (just my opinion).
You will have to extend your window and door jambs, and any electrical boxes that are on the exterior will need to be extended too (extensions available at any electrical supply house).
Have fun!
James DuHamel
J & M Home Maintenance Service
Thanks, James.
What a little ugly word to present - rot LOL
I may yet get talked into removing the existing siding. I don't ever want to EVER have to re-do this siding job and if the cedar starts to rot.....
Mike
even though I measure twice, sometimes it's not enough