Replies

1. 
   MarkH | Sep 14, 2011 07:06am | #1

   It would help to see a drawing or picture.  I'm thinking it tapers as it rises, maybe I'm wrong. If it does, I would cope a trim piece to butt against the chimney and butt the siding to that.

   If I misunderstand the situation, you may be able to grind the chimney to create a suitable surface for the siding to fit without coping.

1. 
   byrd48 | Sep 14, 2011 09:34pm | #2

   Hi, photo attached.

   Thanks!

   Jon

   
1. 
   MarkH | Sep 14, 2011 10:11pm | #3

   That chimney looks different than I expected, but it does look like a shoulder.  That's a tough one.  I would probably just cope the Hardi planks to look like what you have now.

   If you want to use trim boards you could possibly bend pvc to fit against the shoulder part.  That would have to be done using very hot pvc trim.  Not something I would want to do.  You could also use wood trim and laminate the curved section.  That would be easier to do, if you can obtain suitable lumber.  Clear heart redwood would be a good choice for that.

   I think the chimney is very interesting, but if it was flanked with vertical trim boards and filled in with another material between the chimney and trim it would lose its character.  I would probably use hardi panels cut to fit for filler material if you go that route.

1. 
   byrd48 | Sep 14, 2011 11:15pm | #4

   Thanks Mark,

   It is a beautiful chimney and I do want to do it justice (even though it has the ugly gas pipe right beside it).  I probably should have mentioned that I am using the vertical trim boards in the field of the walls on the rest of the house for a craftsman look and to avoid butting siding planks against one another, so from that perpsective, it would not look totally out of place if I bordered the chimney with verticals, but what to do on the shoulder... ?  

   If I did cope the siding as it currently is, how would you transcribe the curve on each piece of siding?  I was thinking that you could use heavy construction paper to get the curvature with each course, then use the jigsaw to make the cuts.  But then you have to heavily caulk the intersection between the brick and siding which could look unsightly.

   I'm also giving consideration to the fact that the house will expand / contract independently of the chimney which might cause the caulk to fail over time.  And the end cuts of the hardi plank will surely not look as smooth as the syp siding..

   I do have some time to think about it, it will be a few weeks before I'm ready to tackle that section.

   Thanks again,

   Jon

1. 
   MarkH | Sep 14, 2011 11:36pm | #5

   As far as coping the hardi plank, I would make a rough cut on the plank. then hang the plank on the wall and scribe it to fit the chimney, then remove the plank and cut to fit, prime the end cut.  Done right, it will look good.  Allow about a quarter inch gap from the plank to the chimney and fill the gap with a good quality elastomeric caulk. Geocel makes several varieties.

   You can temporarily hang the planks on the wall using Malco or gecko siding gauges.

   I believe you can get just as good a fit with the hardi plank as you can with wood.  You can fine tune the cut with rasps, utility knives, a grinder with a diamond wheel etc.

   I noticed the flue pipe, it's pretty nasty.

2. 
   calvin | Sep 15, 2011 06:02am | #6

   jon

   I would like to add to Mark's comments.  Several methods to scribe, but your idea of a paper template might mean lifting the siding one less time.

   B/4 you caulk, insert backer rod in the slight gap between the brick and siding.  This will insure adherence to only two sides with the caulking, allowing it to move and not separate.  I'd use Urethane caulk, because of my good experience with adhesion to masonry .

   Best of luck.

3. 
   MarkH | Sep 15, 2011 07:49am | #7

   Urethane caulk is pretty good stuff.

   A couple to avoid there at the chimney are SILICONE, plain cheap latex caulk, so called Paintable SILICONE caulk, latex caulk with silicone. My two cents worth of advice.

4. 
   calvin | Sep 17, 2011 06:27am | #8

   Mark

   You know, I keep recommending Urethane for every pertinent application-but, I should temper my enthusiasm.............

   That stuff is no easy stuff to get the hang of.

   I'm willing to bet that those that take my advice probably cuss me out more times than not.

5. 
   MarkH | Sep 17, 2011 07:47am | #9

   Well, when I was a glazier, we used butyl caulk exclusively.  Now that stuff is baaaad to work with!  Especially on a hot windy day. It's stringy and if the wind catches it, it'll blow a long spiderweb of butyl that will end up stuck to something you dont want it on.

   Actually Geocel 2300 is a urethane (tripolymer) elastomeric caulk.  It's a little difficult to work with, mainly because it sticks to everything, and needs a solvent for removal.