I’m preparing to reside and install new windows in my home, which has reached the grand old age of 11 (not a typo, it’s “eleven”) years. I will be using Andersen 400 series windows, Tyvek Homewrap, Hardieplank, and Hardiepanel. After I get over the shock of the cost, I will take pleasure in sending the defective Masonite lap siding and rotting & drafty windows to the dumpster. On to my questions”
The house is two story, OSB sheating, with gable ends, so I will have Hardiepanels stacked atop each other. Should the Homewrap overlap the z-flashing at the horizontal joints? On one hand, the idea of allowing moisture to drain to daylight every 8 feet sounds appealing. OTOH, Tyvek makes no mention of this detail in their literature, and it is a little more complicated to “get it right”, introducing additional installation risk. How do you guys do it?
Hardie recommends a second layer of moisture barrier behind all butt joints for Hardieplank, so I’m spec’ing #30 felt at these joints (in addition to the Homewrap). Seems that what’s good for the goose is good for the gander, so I’m planning to spec the same for all Hardiepanel vertical joints. Any thoughts?
Hardie has both the grooved and un-grooved panels. For the grooved panels (“Sierra 8”), Hardie recommends, but does not require, using double stud construction so you can avoid nailing through the thinner grooved area at the edges. I don’t have double studs, but would like to use the grooved panels. Anyone have experience with this on single stud applications?
Lastly (at least for this post), does anyone use copper flashing, or is electro galvanized sufficient? Is z-channel even available in copper? I note that some of the z-channel on my house is already heavily rusted where water pooled (I’m in the KC area).
Thanks!
Replies
Tyvek is primarily an air/wind barrier. You want to make sure there are no "holes" in it to let airflow through (especially at the joints between panels.
Probably the simplest approach is to Tyvek-tape the Z flashing to the face of the Tyvek, though you could probably devise other schemes.
happy?
I normally lap the Tyvek over the Z-bar, but as the other poster said, taping it to it would work as well. Since you're residing after the first siding failed, go ahead and splurge on copper Z...it should be on there even after the Hardi's turned to dust LOL.
Oh yeah the felt splines @ vert. joints--go for it, all 'round.
And about the ends on studs...if it's got OSB for structural sheathing, you don't have to be too picky with a nailing pattern on the HP. I would predrill holes on those edges and hand-nail them, although a siding gun w/ proper depth adjustment does well too.
Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
For the horizontal siding I would use Tyvek DrainWrap at the minimum, to improve drainage behind.
When you refer to Hardi Panels, I'm assuming you mean the 4x8 sheets. If so, this is a product that will be less able to allow water that gets behind to drain. If you have an exposure and/or climate that will cause the walls with the panels to take in a lot of water, I would suggest something better than DrainWrap; something that holds the siding off better. See the article on housewraps in the March '06 FHB.
Advocate