Hi. I am installing a new tub and shower. I am tiling the walls from the tub to the ceiling, and have already purchased the 1/2″ Hardiebacker for the job. I also have installed a new glass block window in the wall by the tub. I have placed the window so it will be flush with the Hardiebacker (hopefully) and then the bull-nosed tile can surround the window and not leave much of a lip for water to sit on (again, hopefully). My question is, how much of a gap do I leave between the Hardiebacker and the window, and what do I fill that gap with? Do I leave 1/8″ gap, as is recommended between sheets of Hardiebacker, and fill the gap with silicone caulk? Do I leave 1/4″ gap, as is recommended between Hardiebacker and the tub, and fill the gap with silicone caulk? Or do I butt the Hardiebacker right up against the window? Thank you for your advice.
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Replies
I do not have an answer for you jsu a question. I am curious if the window is in the shower stall or just near it. I was wanting to replace my existing tub with a tub and shower unit. The existing casement window would be in the shower stall area. I was going to tile the entire shower stall and replace window with a glass block window. Would be interested in pictures if you have any. Thanks!
The window is actually in the shower stall. It will get very wet every time we use the shower. Keeping water out is critical here. Sounds like the only difference between your project and mine is that you are replacing an old window with a glass block window. Mine is a new window in a place where none existed. I'll post photos if I can finish it and be proud of my tile work :-)
I think you started the same thread twice. No reason for that. Just re-visit the thread you initially started.
Good luck.
Yes, but the other thread is closed for posting.
Is this glass block window in a frame? If so are yo going to land the bullnose tile on that frame?
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
I bought a prefab glass block window from Home Depot. There is a vinyl strip around the outside edges. I had to build a box in my wall for the window to rest in and be fastened to with plastic nailer strips that came with the window.
A strip or a frame? Gotta pic? Is any of the frame exposed to inside after install?
Either way, I'd leave backer shy of window 1/8" and use polyurethane (not silicone) caulk in the gap, and only in the gap. If you think along the lines that the installation has to be waterproof before any tile is set, you're on the right track.
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Polyurethane? Can I get that in caulk form? I'm unfamiliar with poly except for finishing wood projects. I will take a picture tonight. Thank you!
I like this one.
http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products.aspx?ID=Polyurethane-Roof-Flashing-Sealant
There are others.
Mask ajacent surfaces to confine to gap.
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Excellent! Thank you so much, PJ. I'll do it.
PL makes a nice poly caulk, but it takes a few days to dry.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
I usually do this by setting the block proud, making the face of the block even with the face of the tile, then just tile up to the glass leaving room for a standard grout joint between the tile and the block. Makes for less chance for the water to collect anywhere. If it's not too late, you might wanna consider this.
View Image
With bullnose as you propose, I'd just run the backer up to within 1/8" of the block and set the bullnose to overlap the block just a bit, maybe 1/4" -- there should be a gap between the back of the tile and the face of the block equal to the depth of your thinset -- and caulk between the tile and the block face.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Edited 9/30/2009 7:25 am ET by MikeHennessy
Thank you so much for this comprehensive answer and photo. The photo looks pretty much exactly like my situation. Much appreciated!!