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HardieBoard Fascia Installation

footsox1 | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 18, 2005 09:39am

We are going to be redoing our old fascia with Hardieboard.  The old fasica is cedar and is in O.K. shape (not rotting) and someone suggested that we could simply attach the new hardieboard fascia to the old cedar fascia. Would this be O.K. to do?  The hardieboard is 7/16 thick and would need a “base” to attach to anyway, in order to make a straight run of it.

So, if this is O.K. to do it this way, I was going to use stainless steel nails to attach it. (to prevent rust since we are near the coast)  I would also like to use something like liquid nails between the two fasica boards to attach them to each other as well.  The Hardie board website recommends using a “cementitious adhesive” with their hardieboard.  Would this be liquid nails?  Or is there some other product that is considered a “cementitious adhesive?”  Thanks for any advice on this.  I appreciate it.

Sue in Florida

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  1. MGMaxwell | Aug 18, 2005 10:07pm | #1

    LN is not cementious. I believe the recommendation you are referring to is for the Hardieboard tile backer for floor installations.

    You might have a dickens of a time hand nailing SS nails thru your board.

    You are asking to put a much more weather resistant material over a wooden product (even if it is cedar). Although HB does not deteriorate from moisture, nothing is impervious. Once water finds its way behind the HB, you're much more likely to cause rot in the cedar, because it won't be able to dry out properly.

    Why do you want to cover up the cedar anyway if it's not in bad shape.

    The HB can be fastened to the tails of your rafters just like the present fascia, without the cedar being present if you want to go ahead. Read the HB info for schedule of fasteners.

    1. AndrewG | Aug 25, 2005 12:23am | #13

      MGMaxwell,

       

      Are you SURE that Hardieboard fascia doesn't need a backer? I doubt it can span more than a few inches without gettgin a preety good wiggle in it. I could be wrong, but I'd want to seee the manufacturer 's specs on that.

      Andrew

      1. User avater
        thedge | Aug 25, 2005 07:57pm | #14

        I am talking about "Hardietrim"- a 3/4" product-weights a lot! comes in standard 1x sizes(1x4 up to 1x12). Not necessary to have a backer however you will need something to attach soffit to anyway. And I prefer to us a 2x on rafter tails -makes lap joints less trouble.DLE Property Services

        1. AndrewG | Aug 25, 2005 11:48pm | #15

          thedge,

           

          I just dopwnloaded aninstallation sheet on "Harditrim" (go to http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomframe.jsp?query=Hardietrim&page=1&offset=0&result_url=redir%3Fsrc%3Dwebsearch%26requestId%3Dbc2afb56b106fc41%26clickedItemRank%3D2%26userQuery%3DHardietrim%26clickedItemURN%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.cedarsidinginc.com%252Fhardietrim.pdf%26invocationType%3D-%26fromPage%3DNSCPTop%26amp%3BampTest%3D1&remove_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cedarsidinginc.com%2Fhardietrim.pdf) remove wordwrap from previous web linnk to get the hyper link to work, if necssary. They show Harditrim used as an eave fascia, backed with a continuous 2x backer board. Not sure how you and I can be having such parallel yet differing experiences.

          Andrew

  2. User avater
    Matt | Aug 20, 2005 04:05am | #2

    I have one (experienced) thought about 7/16 Hardi fascia... PIA!

    I have not tried SS nails with it but I'll bet if its hand nails you will be predrilling or for gun nails, you will have about a 20% bend rate.

    Azek would be a better material for your environment if you can afford it.  There are concerns with expansion/contraction though.

    1. carllf | Aug 20, 2005 04:24am | #3

      might be a little hard to get that under the drip edge. take my word for it, if cedar can't breathe it will rot. just my overpriced 2cents

  3. oceanstatebuilderinc | Aug 20, 2005 01:27pm | #4

    I wouldn't suggest putting Hardi-Fascia boards over cedar. If your cedar is in good shape, why change it? There is another product on the market, not quite as good as Azek, that we use in coastal North Carolina called Miratec. It comes in 3/4 and 5/4 in all sizes. I Just finished two high-end homes trimmed out in Miratec, and it looks wonderful and is backed by a good warranty.

    I still stand by the old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it." However if you must fix it, do it correctly, don't just cover it up.

    Ocean State Builders, Inc.
    Wilmington, NC

    1. footsox1 | Aug 20, 2005 05:04pm | #5

      Hi oceanstatebuilderinc -
      Thanks for your reply (on the fine homebuilding message board). Can you tell me a little more about Miratec? What is it made out of? Is it a plastic-type material? Or a cement type product? Do they have a website? I will do a google search... How do you attach it to the house? Is it glued on? Thanks for any additional info.We have 2 gable ends on this house, and we are redoing those in HardieBoard, so that is why I was going to redo the fascia boards -- so it would match. The cedar fascia that is existing is very rough cut, and has a bunch of nails stuck into it that the previous homeowner used to hang their Christmas lights on. It is also painted brown and we will be painting it white when we are done.... We are aso putting a white metal roof on the house. Perhaps I'll try to paint a section of it first and see how it looks... But if you can tell me more about Miratec, I would be interested in looking into other alternatives than HardieBoard fasica.Thanks so much.
      Sue

      1. User avater
        thedge | Aug 20, 2005 05:42pm | #6

        Miratec is a good way to go, have used it and it holds up well, However for maximum durability why not use Hardie trim? It comes in standard sizes 1x4,1x6 up to 1x12. Just replace your existing fascia, which is probably 3/4" anyway w/ Hardie trim. . The biggest downside is installing. heavy, harder to cut & nail. But it will last and look good for a long time.

        1. footsox1 | Aug 20, 2005 07:15pm | #7

          Unfortunately this existing fasica trim is 8 inches, so I would have to rip a HardieBoard which is 12 inches, down to 8 inches, which I would rather not do. The HardieBoard trim boards I have found on their website say they are 8 inches "nominal' and 7.5 inches "actual." I was going to lower the top of the trim board by 1/2 inch and then the drip edge of the new roof would come down over that. The trim boards I have found on the HardieBoard website say they are 7/16 thick. Can you send me a link to any HardieBoards that are 1 inch thick? I could not find them on their website. Thanks. I appreciate it.Sue

          1. JasonPharez | Aug 20, 2005 09:11pm | #8

            Sue, the 3/4" Hardi is called simply "Harditrim." The true 1" thick stuff is "Harditrim HLD." Regardless of the thickness, if you are hand-nailing (especially w/ SS nails) you will need to predrill your holes. Do this when the stuff is on the ground still, and predrill more than one piece at a time when you can.Jason Pharez Construction

               Framing & Exterior Remodeling

          2. footsox1 | Aug 20, 2005 09:36pm | #9

            Hi Jason --
            Thanks. I am not hand nailing. I wll be using a nail gun. However, I had thought about using stainless steel screws and a screw gun too. No doubt that would be overkill... but I am an ovekill type of person... Thanks for the HardiTrim info.Sue

          3. JasonPharez | Aug 20, 2005 10:11pm | #11

            You'll wanna use a framing nailer then, not a siding nailer---the trimboards will bend the thinner shank nails.Jason Pharez Construction

               Framing & Exterior Remodeling

          4. thor | Aug 20, 2005 09:37pm | #10

            I also have used 3/4" hardi trim facia. Like others have said, it is messy to work with (very dusty) to cut. I nailed it with a bostich (stainless steel nails) pnumatic nailer. Material is very nice when finished.

      2. oceanstatebuilderinc | Aug 21, 2005 02:51pm | #12

        Footsox1,Miratec is an exterior MDF type of material. It is pre-primed and comes in 16 foot lengths. As far as installation, we have used both stainless steel and hot dipped galvanized nails. It is possible to hand-drive the nails, however we use nail guns. The best part for me about the material is the ease of cutting. You do not need a special blade, and at the end of the day you don't look like an Aborigine!I also like the fact that it is a wood material, and you can glue your mitre joints. Good luck!Ocean State Builders Inc
        Wilmington, NCFine Custom Framing and Exterior Trim

  4. donk123 | Aug 26, 2005 05:21am | #16

    I saw the other responses and it sounds like you might be moving away from this idea.

    However, if you do decide to go forward with it, consider the overhang of the roof (shingles?). You need a good overhang to prevent water infiltration. If you go over the cedar with hardie, or anything else, you need to make proper precaution for the additional material.

    It is not clear when/how you will be re-roofing. If this is already considered, great.

    Don

    1. footsox1 | Aug 26, 2005 05:50am | #17

      Thanks, Don. The new roof will be a white metal roof, which will be done within weeks of the fascia replacement, if not sooner. Down here in Florida, they install them with a white metal drip edge that comes down over the fasica by about 2 or 3 inches. Then the metal roof panels sit on top of this drip edge. (like shingles do, but I believe the drip edge is wider and comes down farther on this metal roof...) Thanks for the thoughts on the project. I appreciate it.Sue

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