Seems hardieplank would leak at the butt joints if the caulk failed?
Should you put a small piece of tar paper behind the butt joints overlapping over the bottom most plank?
-This forum says yes last year.
-Many jobs I see they do not do it tho fast and cheap to do.
-i wrote Hardie tech service – they said its “optional”
What gives ?
seems there would be a leak there.
or do you put our trust in caulk????
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Others here may have their own methods, but what we do is cut the strips from a roll of shake felt (18" wide tarpaper slit to 9" wide and then 3" strips cut off the 9" strips; a fill-in job for a laborer...a supply of the 3" X 9" strips for a medium-sized house might take a half-hour).
Attaching the backing at each butt joint adds very little time to a siding job and pretty much eliminates any future worries about caulking failures.
BTW, I use polyurethane sanded caulk at the joints....while a bit messier to deal with, when feathered in the joint, after painting, is nearly invisible, and doesn't shrink like some of the others commonly used.
Do you have a brand of caulk that you like best?
Normally use the OSI Quad caulking. Comes in 150 colors to match your siding color and very nice to work with. The Hardie dealers all have access to it by ordering.
http://www.osiproseries.com
I use Vulcam 921 (smooth) or 914 (sanded).
Can you give a source or weblink for Vulcam caulks? I googled it every way possible, but came up blank.
Gene; It didn't help that I mispelled the product!
Go to http://www.tremcosealants.com and find the product descriptions for Vulkem...
BTW, we've found that when the F/C is to be painted, using gray vulkem covers better.
And when we've put up prestained F/C, we usually special order a color match.
I researched the Tremco sealant, and found this out:
Vulkem, gunnable sealant, one-part moisture curing polyurethane, Vulkem 921 is the smooth, Vulkem 116 is what they call "textured," and is what I believe you are calling "sanded."
Made for bonding without primer to cementitious surfaces, it sounds like the perfect caulk for fibercement.
Tremco is getting me color samples. Thanks for the lead.
Vulcuum is so gorilla strength stuff... it just doesn't fail.. color selection is very good too..
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I live by the stuff, but try to keep it off your clothes unless you want your dockers to become raingear!
Definately you should have a paper backup on the joint. Can't rely on caulking forever and the paper is just an added insurance against leaks.
Is this in addition to housewrap?
Yes!
I've only done Hardie on block houses with 1x2 furring so the procedure is a bit different...but you can bet I'll be using these ideas on the next gable I Hardie.
You'll sleep better by doing so!
"Think like water!"
Anyone tried this stuff? It's a rain screen type product, little bumps embossed in the surface keep the Hardi Plank from creating a dam at the top of each plank.
I saw it at JLC Live last year, neat stuff.
Joe H
Haven't seen that product, but Dupont Tyvex comes in a crinkled surface - looks like crepe paper - that provides channels for drainage.
In the pictures, is that factory stained HB or job applied."I am not young enough to know everything."
- Oscar Wilde (1854-1900)
It's the stuff Mike Smith (?) recommended, mixed 2 colors to get that color.
Joe H
wain ... we make up slips about 4" wide , same ht. as the siding.. with a bend at the top.. we make them out of coil stock and slip one straddleing the joint behind the fibercement..
it also serves as a backer for the caulk
I put Hardiplank siding on my old bosses house in Seattle. At every butt joint we put a small rectangle of galvi flashing behind the joint.
Thanks
The hardie peole say a backer (tar paperor tin) is optional>Wonder why they say that? Maybe they hope the wall covering will stop whatever water gets thru?Do you do the same on wood clapboards?