Hardishingle siding install question
RippySkippy
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
On our new house, we decided to install the James Hardi shingle siding on an accent gable, see attachment, it’s the red section in the front.
When the course starts, when I trim the panel to fit the soffit, the cut intersects with the cuts in the shingle siding and the bottoms of 1 or 2 tab are cut off, before the angle catches up with the shingle body.
I need advice on how I should fasten these small cut off sections to the wall. Installation is over 1/2″ OSB.
Thanks much for any suggestions you have,
Rip
Replies
I use 1/4" wide air staples, 1" long, touch up with paint. All the staples I find are galvanized (senco or porter cable) but say interior use only - hence the paint.
Bigger staples would work, but might crack your shingles.
They (1/4") work great on hardie soffit, the same material. I was going to do the gable accent on my house too, but sticker shock killed that...
Yes the sticker shock is definitely a factor, given the design of the house, I think we really had to do something different with the peak.I thought about the staples, and I might be inclined if it were on the soffit, I'll probably shy away on the vertical installation.I have some polyurethane foam glue (remnants from the ICF building) that would certainly hold it in place, but I'm concerned about longevity with exposure to the elements, the stuff breaks down when exposed to sun.I think I'll pick up a box of SS ringshank/drilling and go that route, and thanks to dovetail97128 and ebentahoe as well.Rip
When I have to nail small pieces of Hardi product I predrill. I use a "spade point" drill , often sold for drilling glass or ceramic, it lasts longer than anything else I have used. Hand nail with SS nails
i agree on the predrilling and would add that the ss nails should be ringshank.
Is this gable getting a frieze board? whenever I've used hardishingles in a gable those tabs that get cutoff are mostly covered by the frieze and I nail them with a siding nailer where it will be concealed.
No it's not....in hind sight I think that would of been the way to go.What I've been doing is after marking the cut line, drilling a couple of holes it the cut offs. Install the largest portion, then put some Vulkem on back of the cut off, and nail in place keeping the spacing correct. From what I know about the Vulkem, once set...that piece isn't move'n!Thanks anyway!Rip