Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Mar 03, 2009 08:16pm | #1

   Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. It expands across its width, not along its length.

   As a result, anything you push down into the gaps is likely to be squeezed back out when the wood expands.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
1. 
   dejure | Mar 04, 2009 04:46am | #8

   The expansion issue of wood has shown up over and over again on the FineHomebuilding site. It's always the same: Moisture loss causes gap problems.If you want to stop or reduce expansion and contraction from moisture loss, you need to do one of two things: 1) Permeate the wood with something that isn't going to quickly evaporate (resulting in shrinking); or, 2) Sealing all six surfaces would slow it down.Once a floor is down, this isn't going to be an easy problem to remedy. Too, we have the time factor. First, we have to hope there is a good moisture barrier under the existing floor. That will stop or reduce moisture loss and gain from those surfaces. Next, we would need to address as much of the remaining areas as possible. To do so, I thin my product by as much as fifty percent and flood the floor. I let it set long enough to soak in and add more to areas that absorb more. Ideally, take a few hours to do this. The more that soaks in, the better. If one could flood floor in product that would penetrate (e.g., highly thinned product) and keep it flooded long enough for it to soak through, then dry, the problem would be gone, or greatly reduced. You can do any variation of this you want, but you only get out of such approaches what you can afford to put into them.That which I least want to do is oft that which I most should do. And I can't afford cheap.

2. 
   Piffin | Mar 03, 2009 08:35pm | #2

   Here is one option.

   sand the floors and save the sawdust ( outside in a metal can so the shop doesn't burn down) then mix some with the finish product to form a paste/slurry and trowel it in. Then sand again to clean the surface after this dries, then hit the finish coats.

   for a shop floor I'd be looking for some high end stuff like a two part finish or a gym floor product.

    

    

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1. 
   davidwilco | Mar 04, 2009 10:47pm | #13

   I tried this today with sawdust from the same planks plus a spirit-based varnish (Ronseal). It did look awfully dark compared with the wood as such. I suspect this will take a few days to dry, then I'll sand the test patch. Wonder will it lighten?

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 04, 2009 11:44pm | #14

   some but not as light as the wood surfacce 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   frenchy | Mar 03, 2009 09:12pm | #3

   One floor finish that's great for a shop is shellac

    It's very tough, extremely easy to apply, not terribly expensive, and if it does need repairs you can touch it up without sanding and have an invisable repair..  (each coat of shellac melts into the previous coats).

    It dries really fast (15 minutes first coat) (double the time for each coat)

    My 150 pound dog hasn't screwed up my floor and he refuses to trim his claws!

      It's extremely safe,, you've been eating shellac all of your life on candy and pills. 

     The odor goes away quickly and most scratches only require a few moments rubbing with denatured alcohol to disappear..

    On top of that it's biodegradeable  renewable and about as green as it gets.. Here in America it's extremely cheap. Cheaper than most other finishes..

    Yes I know it's used on fine woodworking to bring out the natural beauty of the wood and on fine antiques again because of it's beauty and the fact that it's been around since shortly after they invented dirt. In no way is it delicate!

      If water spills on it you have several hours to wipe it up without damage , if it should turn white all you have to do is take denatured alcohol to it and that will remove the white area without sanding  then simmply reapply new coats and they will melt into the old nicely making an invisable repair..

    Spilling single malt scotch on it needs to be wiped up right away but what person is that careless with booze anyway?

4. 
   andybuildz | Mar 03, 2009 11:16pm | #4

   I've filled wide plank Eastern white "pine" flooring with different products to see what worked best. Overall I have to say that Bondo held up a lot better then anything else. They have Bondo thats made for construction/home work vs the Bondo for cars.

   I also was thinking the other day about whether or not that filler they sell thats a sort of wax and never gets hard would work well. Works real nice in nail holes but I've only seen it in tiny containers....and I know the container says it's for little holes but it is wax. Be nice if you could make this stuff yourself...hmmm http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17356

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   Why do I keep...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7ZkQC0riwc

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

5. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Mar 04, 2009 01:45am | #5

   i use trowable wood filler,comes in a 2 gal bucket,you just throw a gob on the floor and start troweling it with a small trowel. let dry for a couple hours and sand. it really makes a floor look nice and so far i've never had any "push up".

   lsat i bought was 65 for 2 gal.larry

   YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
   MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
   DUCT TAPE.

1. 
   andybuildz | Mar 04, 2009 02:08am | #6

   larry...I've seen that stuff at my floor finishing supplier in 5 gal buckets and 2 gal buckets at HD.....but what happens in the gaps between planks over seasons? thats the main concern. everything looks good the first few months.

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   Why do I keep...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7ZkQC0riwc

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Mar 04, 2009 03:51am | #7

   i've never used it on a new floor,has always been a 30+ yr old floor,always white oak.so that may be why i have not experenced any problems the floors are not moving much.the stuff i have used is a waterbase product.

   in my own house the living room floor had had a new prefinish nail across the orig oak floor[what were they thinking?]. when i pulled up the new floor the original floor looked so bad with nail holes that had splinterd when the nails were pulled i thought about pulling it and replacing.decided to try this  wood filler and today it is the best looking floor in the house,no problems so far 5 years later.

   i'm getting ready to do a flor next week that has alot of big gaps,we'll see what happens.YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'TMOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THEDUCT TAPE.

1. 
   andybuildz | Mar 04, 2009 06:22am | #10

   Sounds interesting. I've always ignored the stuff but you may be onto something. Keep me posted on the next floor you do ....how the gaps come out.

   Thanks

   andy

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   Why do I keep...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7ZkQC0riwc

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

2. 
   davidwilco | Mar 04, 2009 12:43pm | #11

   Ok, good so far, we have suggestions of 1) a field mix of sawdust and resinous varnish (and/or shellac) which we could do, 2) bondo, which probably isn't available here, 3) goop in a bucket, not specified, which I remember from 20 years ago in California, but so far no suppliers I've called here have similar, 4) marine caulk, which, if sandable may be a winner, if cost is not too high.

   Always there are concerns over expansion/contraction, so adhesion and flexibility matter a lot. The top coat will need to be very durable - this is for a deli-bistro (shouldn't said shop for US post)

   Taking all this in, thanks. I usually install tiles, but the recession makes you stretch.

1. 
   andybuildz | Mar 04, 2009 03:02pm | #12

   I don't see why Bondo or a similar product isn't available there...they do use something for autobody repair over there

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   Why do I keep...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7ZkQC0riwc

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

6. 
   rlrefalo | Mar 04, 2009 04:47am | #9

   Check out boat building suppliers, there are polysulfide caulks that are used for deck seams that are sandable. I believe they remain flexible.

   Rich

   Edit to say check out westmarine.com

   
   

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   Edited 3/3/2009 9:38 pm ET by rlrefalo

7. 
   brad805 | Mar 05, 2009 01:04am | #15

   My floor finish supply company sent me Woodwise filler and I noticed that it is available in Ireland, but then again many do not update their sites all that often.  It comes in several diff colors and can be tinted with Transtint if you like also.  Add a dot com to their name and you can find some more info.  I installed this floor approx 8mos ago and I was looking this morning and did find a couple of 1/32" gaps have shown up.

   I would guess Bona Floor finish must be available in Ireland.

   Woodwise supplier in Ireland:

   International Floor Supplies Ltd., 124 Silverlawns Navan Co. Meath,
   IRELAND,35 3469-075150, 35 3469-075150

   Brad

   
   

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   Edited 3/4/2009 5:05 pm ET by brad805

1. 
   davidwilco | Mar 10, 2009 10:52pm | #16

   thanks Brad I will try them tomorrow. My test patch with varnish and sawdust didn't set well. Finding 2-part resin has proven elusive as yet. I presume that a catalyst is what makes for success in the sawdust mix method.

   Finding good products and tools has long been a challenge here. It was getting better during the building boom but it is reverting to shrugs as the whole market is collapsing.