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Hardwood floor jack?

wooderson | Posted in General Discussion on July 13, 2007 02:13am

I just finished installing a new hardwood floor for a friend.  The room was only about 250 square feet, but by the end I was annoyed with having to use wedges and chisels to get the boards tight.  It was especially a problem near the wall that I ended at.

So, I think I need to invest in a jack before taking on the 1400 sf job in my own house.

I have used the Porta-Nails brand jacks before and they are okay.  I just saw a jack made by Cepco that is pretty cool because you can attach it to a 2×4 and use it vertically, too.

What do you guys think is the best flooring jack?

Thanks.

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Replies

  1. Geoffrey | Jul 13, 2007 02:51am | #1

     

    There's either something wrong with the flooring or your technique, I'd vote for the latter. If your using a port-a-nailer or similiar pnumatic flooring gun you should be able to set the boards tight enough that when you drive the nails you're setting the flooring tight, you shouldn't need to wedge anything, except maybe the last few rows as you reach the wall.

                                              Geoff

     

    1. McMarky | Jul 13, 2007 03:09am | #2

      There's either something wrong with the flooring or your technique, I'd vote for the latter.

      Then why do all flooring contractors I know own jacks.  Most of them are very experienced, and history would suggest that they "have their technique down".

      1. Piffin | Jul 13, 2007 03:21am | #3

        Maybe because too often they are asked to install flooring to a schedule when it is not dry enough yet, so they are cramming thing as tight as they can before nailing 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      2. Geoffrey | Jul 13, 2007 07:49am | #5

        McMarky,

         jacks have their usefulness, someone who does floors for a living would have a reason to own one,  BUT, if your using it like the OP described, on almost every row, your doing something wrong. As Piffin said, not acclimating the material properly prior to install would be cause to have to use a jack. That is an improper installation and may show signs of it later on down the road, like excessive expansion and shrinkage during seasonal changes. There will always be some  movement but certainly more noticable movement if you install "wet" flooring.

                                                                                  Geoff 

                                             

        1. wooderson | Jul 15, 2007 07:14pm | #6

          Sorry it took me so long to get back to you guys.  I can only use the internet at work and I don't work that often in the summer.

          I was talking about wanting a jack for the last few rows against the wall where you cant swing free or fit the nailer in, and for a few trouble spots in other places.  I am NOT talking about needing a jack for the main field.

          Sorry about the confusion.

          Do you have any recommendations of brand?

      3. wooderson | Jul 15, 2007 07:17pm | #7

        Thanks for backing me up on this one.  I guess I wasnt exactly clear in my post that I need the jack for the last few rows and other tight places.

        1. FastEddie | Jul 15, 2007 11:54pm | #8

          To get the last couple of rows in place, I use scraps of wood and a flat pry bar.  Stick the bar in the gap and push tha handle sideways ... 90 degrees to how you would use it to pry boards apart.  It is only good for about 1/2 inch, but you can get lots of leverage."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

          "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

          1. Ozlander | Jul 16, 2007 05:00am | #9

            FastEddie got it right.

            Ozlander

  2. FastEddie | Jul 13, 2007 04:03am | #4

    Did you find that the amount of wedging you needed to apply got worse and more frequent toward the end of the job?  Sounds like you got off a little and it just started to add up. 

    "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

  3. caseyr | Jul 16, 2007 06:20am | #10

    when I did a small section of face nailed oak strip flooring, I used as a spreader some Irwin clamp/spreaders that I got at Home Depot. It was good enough to straighten out the slight bow in some of the strips. The ones I had were fairly short, so I had to make some 2x4 spacers. Definitely adequate for a one time job.

    http://www.amazon.com/Quick-Grip-524QC-Bar-Clamp-Spreader/dp/B000022453

  4. user-204835 | Jul 16, 2007 06:55pm | #11

    I use a set of wood wedges made from hardwood in assorted sizes to make the last few sections of flooring fit properly. I also have the CEPKO
    jack, but rarely use it. I also buy all my flooring from a flooring distributor, NOT the orange box stores, whose quality leaves a lot to be desired.

    1. wooderson | Jul 18, 2007 03:36pm | #13

      I did not buy the wood I have been working with, but it is from Big Orange, and is not at all straight.  Makes for a fun day.

      When I do my own house, I am going to a local flooring mill. 

      1. user-204835 | Jul 18, 2007 05:05pm | #14

        Few years back, had a client who purchased Bruce flooring from HD in the butterscotch color. Found warped sections, sections with stains on them and other 'quality' issues. Needed 2 more boxes of flooring, HD decided to stop carrying that brand/color. Went to a local flooring distributor who carried the same brand/color, but there was a major difference in
        quality. I've heard that HD specs out flooring from the manufacturers with a less quality grade, so they can sell cheaper.OPD

  5. JohnD1 | Jul 16, 2007 08:53pm | #12

    I made up a set of wedge.  One piece was made using a piece of the flooring.  THAT went against the working strip (to avoid damage to the tongue).  The other half of the wedge was made up of a piece of junk wood.  If necessary, I nailed another flat piece of wood into the subflooring.  A tap with a heavy tool (usually the nailer) and the wedge would hold tight.

    Using a short piece against the flooring meant I could nail on either side of the wedge.

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