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It looks like the server ate my previous questions about installing a strip hardwood floor, and adding 1/2″ CDX to the top of the existing subfloor. I sincerely appreciate the responses, especially Joe F. – I followed his advice on installing the second layer of subfloor and it came out perfectly. I’ve spread out the strip flooring in the living room to equilibrate moisture for two weeks.
Now I would like advice on the seam where the hardwood floor meets a slate tile floor. This seam is 36′ ft long, and the hardwood strips will be parallel to the seam. The hardwood floor is 12′ wide, so the total gap necessary for cross-grain expansion (assuming 1/16″/foot) is 3/4″. How much of a gap should be left between the slate and the strip floor? Are there colored (to match the tile grout) elastic caulks that can be used for this purpose? Any favorite brands?
The tile spacing is 3/8″.
Thanks in advance-
RichardB
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Can't help you on the proper gap, but you shouldn't have a caulk gap greater than half an inch. If the gap needs to be greater, I'd consider a floating threshold to cover it. If you caulk, you may also wish to use backer rod (foam rope)under the caulk to reduce the caulk needed and to provide a better joint. You should be able to get matching caulk from the grout manufacturer. Go to a professional supplier, not HD, Lowe's, etc.
*I suggest a joint width of 1/16-1/18". A transition joint the same width as those between the slate tile looks like crap. Since grout will pull away from the wood--looks like a crack--you will want to go with a caulk. The smaller joint works the best for caulking.I used to make my own colored caulking. Simply mix a latex caulk with the grout you used for the slate, add a little water, viola', colored caulk. Just keep playing with this until you have the right shade. I don't have to do this anymore for someone has beaten me to market with colored caulks--sanded and non-sanded. You can find these at any tile shop. Just remember, grout, as it dries, becomes lighter; caulk, as it dries, becomes darker.
*I suggest a joint width of 1/16-1/18". A transition joint the same width as those between the slate tile looks like crap. I would not worry so much about wood expansion. Since grout will pull away from the wood--looks like a crack--you will want to go with a caulk. The smaller joint works the best for caulking.I used to make my own colored caulking. Simply mix a latex caulk with the grout you used for the slate, add a little water, viola', colored caulk. Just keep playing with this until you have the right shade. I don't have to do this anymore for someone has beaten me to market with colored caulks--sanded and non-sanded. You can find these at any tile shop. Just remember, grout, as it dries, becomes lighter; caulk, as it dries, becomes darker.