Hello all,
Tomorrow I’ll be putting down some Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry) in my house in a 12′ X 12′ den. The 4/0 opening to this room is off the Entry. The entry is natural white oak running perpendicular to the door. There is currently a piece of oak separating the two rooms. I’m looking for ideas on how to run the Jatoba. Should I run it perpendicular to the oak (parrallel to joists), parrallel to oak separated by oak or Jatoba threshold, on the diagonal, herringbone, etc? I considered a border around the room, but I will be covering one end of the room with cabinets and another with built-ins.
Looking for ideas,
John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Replies
If you know your layout of your builtins you can still do borders.
Here is mine
Floor is Hickory
Border is Bolivian cherry AKA bullet wood grows in Peurto Rico.
Looks good! I'm somewhat skeptical of doing a border. I don't exactly know what I'm going to do with the built-ins. The house is a work in progress (much like it appears yours is). Also if for some reason I decide to change built-ins or remove cabinets in the future, I'll be stuck with the border in the wrong place. I always try to think of the what-ifs. If it were an entry, hallway, or dining; I wouldn't be having this quandry. The built-in's are throwing me off, so I've almost eliminated the possibility of a border.
I'm more looking for patern or orientation ideas. I wish that I'd seen yours before the rest of the house went down. I like it!
John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
If you are changing species, changing rooms, I think changing orientation sounds fine, John. I'm no designer, but it seems like it would help define the den as a seperate space, kind of like changing ceiling heights does.
I don't know what nails other folks use for strip flooring, but there's no way 2" Powernails reach through the subfloor into the joists in a significant way anyway. What kind of subfloor you have in that place?TIPI,TIPI,TIPI!
Subfloor is 3/4" LP Topnotch HP (similar to Advantech).
I'm using 2" staples from Bostich MIIIFS to put down (same as installation of rest of house). We tried pneumatic flooring cleats once and felt the staples held better. Manual flooring cleats hold better than pneumatic in my opinion.
As far as orientation, I've decided to K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) I'm going to have threshold at entry to room perpendicular to flooring and then run in same direction as the rest perpendicular to joists. I just couldn't bring myself to run parrallel. I mocked it up last night and it looked good and DW approved. Truth be told, she just wants it done!John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
The before------ well lets just say nasty
Built 75' no rennovations till I got a hold of it.
Very Brady Bunch
I see why you renovated. Much better now. With a view like that it was like looking through dirty glasses before.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Do a pattern that isn't a border!
In my great room for much the same reasons you discussed I wound up doing a "picture Frame" in the center of the room. That shows off the differant woods with out the committment to the existing shape of the room remaining constant..
The one consideration you'll need to take into consideration about a plan like this is you need to account for the differance in wood expansion.
Wood swells more tangentially than it does radially. (Width wise rather than length wise) your sub floor will do the same and the finish flloer will do the same. So if you run length wise and the subflooring is width wise you'll need to compensate.
There are lots of stragedys My approach has been to put the boards together ast tight as possible once the wood swells as much as it's gonna.. Anotherwords in late June with humidity hovering around 100% for a few weeks I Jam boards together as tight as I can.. when they shrink they will open up some but they won't ever cup becuase they are too tight.. Since wood can actually compress a little bit (tiny actaully) if you get a real long spell of really humid weather you still shouldn't have any cupping.
There are lots of stragedys My approach has been to put the boards together ast tight as possible once the wood swells as much as it's gonna.. Anotherwords in late June with humidity hovering around 100% for a few weeks I Jam boards together as tight as I can.. when they shrink they will open up some but they won't ever cup becuase they are too tight.. Since wood can actually compress a little bit (tiny actaully) if you get a real long spell of really humid weather you still shouldn't have any cupping.
That would be the ideal thing to do but you only have that luxury when you are doing it in your own house. Try to explain it to the client in September saying that you'll be back the next June because...
Hey Franchy, when is open house?
TomC
Or explain to your wife that the floor will be laid in June and finished maybe in time for christmas <G>
Nice work plumbill. But I don't care for the way the floor register interrupts the dark stripe in pic 2. too bad you couldn't have done something a little differently there.
Lazaro ... here's a couple of more ideas. The built-ins should not be too much of a concrn, just stay far enoug off the wall so you could make changes to the cabinets later. Or, just bite the bullet and jump in with the floor. Maybe that will take away the future option of changing the cabinets ... one less decision.
View Image
View Image
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Yeah that register was an oops of sorts.
Hindsight is what again.
That register was going to be a toe kick vent when it was an island --- till the DW sat in an aisle way next to the island & said " I want to sit here in the morning with coffee & watch the sun hit the Olympics.
So the island grew & moved to a peninsula & I forgot to move the duct then I didn't have time to fix it when the floor was going in.
Here is part of what she wanted to see in the morning.
Yeah, with that view who needs a house. :)
That's the only reason we bought the house.
Got it Jul 99' been remodeling it one room at a time for the last 6 yrs.
Just have some trim & a smoke/co detector to hard wire in.
Then done woo hoo then I can start on the addition & shop.
I might need a lawyer for that one------- Hey Bob wanna help me negotiate with the dw.
Love the work you did there and I saw it before and showed DW. But DW wants to keep it simple so I must oblige.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
It's hard to give you any ideas until you give more info.
What other kinds of flooring do you have in the house? The size of the entry vestibule or hall, the view from that vantage point, etc.
If it's a square room off the entry I would tend to run the boards parallel to the doorway, but then you have a problem with the parallel joists. A herring bone pattern is nice but depending on the style of the house and the style of the interior.
If you want to do a border, it will go in after the build-in. A build-in is just that once it's in you don't take it out. If any doubt don't do a border then.
Oh, the most important, ask DW.
Don't know how to describe the style of the house. This room is the only room on the first floor with carpet. The rest of the first floor is all natural white oak. With stained trim throughout most of the first floor, touches of crown and coffered ceilings here and there (remember work in progress), and a mahogany front door built by a fellow breaktimer (AcornW). Nothing too fancy, but we like it.
And to set the record straight, built-ins are not permanent. If anything was permanent in a house most of us would be out of work.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.