Replies

1. 
   Nailbag | Dec 20, 2006 03:23pm | #1

   I've used strip (3 1/2")with a nosing and solid 1 1/16th" treads, each have their place. I would tend to make the full thickness tread work if at all possible...it just looks better.

   There are lots of issues to consider...like access from the bottom, are the stairs housed or open, thickness of subtread, and height of riser (all risers must be within a tight tolerance. I think that the figure is 3/16th" ,with the first and last riser and their relation to the finished floor usually being the issue.

1. 
   alrightythen | Dec 20, 2006 05:44pm | #3

   they have 2x treads. ( house 30 years old) was carpeted. so for starters the 2x nosing would have to be ripped off. 

   how does underside access affect it. I know that with mortised stringers hardwood stairs are assembled differently than framed stairs. these are frame framed stairs though.

1. 
   Nailbag | Dec 20, 2006 09:59pm | #7

   Underside access is a fairly minor point...makes blind fastening an option rather than screws and plugs on top.Carefully plan your finished rise. If you remove the 2x tread and replaces them with 1 1/8th inch treads, it affects the rise the same throughout the staircase EXCEPT for the top and bottom stair. Code states that the maximum differential is 3/8ths. Assuming your treads are 1 1/8th, your looking at your last stair being off 3/8ths. Remember the max rise is 7 3/4th too.Like someone else said, use lots of liquid snails and jam the treads in between the skirt really tight.

1. 
   alrightythen | Dec 21, 2006 05:10am | #8

   thnks all foreed back.

   walls on both sides. I think sub treads will stay on. therefor height variances will remain the same. only thing the 2x tread nosing will have to be ripped off.

   If it were up to me I'd probably rip the strairs out and rebuild em. but they don't have the budget for that sort of stuff.

   I can hardly wait to work on my own stuff again. I don't have to convince myself to do things the right way.

1. 
   Geoffrey | Dec 21, 2006 11:34am | #9

   the variances will not stay the same if you leave the 2x tread on, your top and bottom steps will be off the thickness of your tread material. The last step will be too short and the bottom step will be too tall.

                                                                         Geoff

    

    

                                                                      

2. 
   alrightythen | Dec 21, 2006 01:04pm | #10

   "the variances will not stay the same if you leave the 2x tread on, your top and bottom steps will be off the thickness of your tread material. The last step will be too short and the bottom step will be too tall."

   all will be the same because they will be using the same material on floor at the top and at the bottom. so finish floor gets the same height change that the stairs get. (currently all is carpeted - stairs and both floors, top and bottom)

   if full plank treads were to be used and have the different thickness, then yes you would be correct. except that simply removing the subtreads would leave it still off - just a different way. requiring further adjustment.

   PS you should see the lower landing 2x6 subfloor with big gaps. I should have taken a pic.

   Edited 12/21/2006 5:11 am ET by alrightythen

2. 
   andybuildz | Dec 20, 2006 03:44pm | #2

   For the most part the answer is no. I'd consider that to be a custom job.
   Full stair treads look the best to me...but thats just me and if you're going over an existing tread you'll have to make your own custom nosing for all edges which would look odd (to me) being over 2" thick. Depends how you customize it I spose'. Could look interesting but for me I'd rather see it all in one solid piece.
   Just my .02 fwiw

     

   HAPPY HOLIDAYS:)http://http://www.woodstockanddeadseascrolls.net/files/track09c.mp3< 

    http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM                                   

    
1. 
   alrightythen | Dec 20, 2006 05:45pm | #4

   I thought a full tread would come with nosing - no?

1. 
   andybuildz | Dec 20, 2006 05:59pm | #5

   yeh...the nosing is just cut right onto the face edge but not the side edges unless you buy it already attached. I have seen full treads w/the nosing cut right into the tread on the sides as weel but for the most part I've always added the one side thats usually open under the railings.
   Some stairs have walls on two sides, some on one side and some open on all three sides so......know what I mean?  

   HAPPY HOLIDAYS:)http://http://www.woodstockanddeadseascrolls.net/files/track09c.mp3< 

    http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM                                   

    

3. 
   vinniegoombatz | Dec 20, 2006 09:25pm | #6

   use full tead    scribe and cut careful    use subfloor adhesive under it