I need to seriously repaint the outside of my house. A contractor friend of mine suggested just replacing the wood with new “hardy plank sidingâ€. I’m having trouble finding information of this siding; some questions:
· How closely does this resemble wood? I don’t like the look of vinyl siding, would I not like hardy plank siding?
· Is this a durable as vinyl?
· Why is it that there is so little information available (nothing on FHB)?
· Where could I go to see this stuff in person?
· Should I do this?
Replies
use advanced search here and spell it Hardi.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
New book alert; Eckhart Tolle "A new earth"
A must read.
Could be the spelling. Try Hardi siding.
Here's the website.
http://www.jameshardie.com/
Larry
James Hardi products.
It is a cement based product. Durable. 'maintenance free'. It has a wood texture/grain to it (that can be good or bad depending on your taste). You can buy it pre primed, painted, .... and stained ... the stained product is very nice looking ... most people don't know about the stained option ... really brings out the texture/grain of the wood pattern and is amazingly 'natural' looking. Very rich color/texture. I don't think the stained product is offered by Hardi ... it is actually an aftermarket thing. More expensive, but in my opinion, well worth it. Comes in like 10-12 colors. We bought our siding direct from Home Depot ... the cheapest price we found in our area (Oregon). It was special order. ... Beware of 'special order' at HD, though ... while we didn't have much issues with the siding order, we did with other stuff. You need to get matching stain to touch up cuts and raw edges as you go.
I can send you a pic if you like.
You cut Hardi w/ either a special saw blade (expensive and VERY dusty, but clean cuts) or special siding shears ... if you go that route, I've a special tip ... always cut back side up. The shears are easy and cut as well as your steady hand. You still have the special cuts .... circles and what not. This is a VERY popular siding out here in the West .... LOTS of it both new and renovation construction. Next best thing to the old asbestos siding ... 'only better'.
Please post pics of the stained Hardi siding you installed.
here are some. One house is the painted style (light green). The other is the stained style (redwood).
Thanks for posting the photos.
The redwood stain looks natural in sunlight, right? Can you please explain the apparent color differences between the photos in shade and in sun? Do they appear that way to the eye?
I wandered around on the Hardi web site, looking for the stain options. Didn't find any. Did I miss them or did you stain the siding yourself?
What's the outside corner detail on the green house?
Is that shade of green one of Hardi's available colors? What do they call it?
The stain always seems to change color and tone depending on the light. We REALLY like that aspect ... it's never really static.
The stain isn't offered by Hardi ... it's an aftermarket thing that is done by other companies. Don't recall the brand.
The outside corner detail is a classic metal corner piece. Don't know the name of the green color or if that is one of the Hardi originals ... we didn't side the green house, just the redwood one.
Thanks for the reply. Looks like Joe has the details in the post following yours.
The stain is made by duckback products http://www.superdeck.com -- the stain is masons Select Woodperfect.
View Image
I used redwood & mahogany mixed 50/50. I think Jim Blodgett came up with that idea. I did not like either of the 2 colors out of the can, together they are much richer looking.
HD does not carry it, got mine at ACE. Talked to the factory, they said they did not want to sell through the big boxes.
Joe H
Joe, What a great, informative post.
After checking out the web site's photos I agree that the color you achieved by mixing is much warmer and closer to the real deal. This makes me more enthusiastic about using Hardi's plank siding on my next house.
Couple more questions: How and when did you apply the stain? How many coats? How's it holding up?
I put it on with a weenie roller, laid a bunch out and put on a coat, second coat a couple hours later.
Think they say wait an hour.
They also say to spray but I found the variation from the roller made it look much more realistic.
I have had people who were leaning on the wall ask what kind of wood it was. It looks like the real thing.
Mixing the colors wasn't my idea, Jim Blodggett came up with that I think.
It's been a few years and no fading that I've noticed, I'd recommend this stuff to anyone.
Joe H
I like that small roller for this application. I imagine that it puts enough pressure on the surface to make the stain penetrate and bond better.
Thanks for including the info about how you got color variation. I was wondering about that too but forgot to ask.
It's good to know that the finish is holding up OK, after a few years. It would be a real pain if it needed another coat of stain to keep it's appearance as often as say, exterior cedar siding does.
I appreciate how forthcoming you've been about your experience, the linked product information, and the photo. This is the kind of exchange that makes BT and other message boards a real benefit to me/all and keeps me interested in making an effort to offer help to others in a similar manner.
No one talked about this... but are u putting it up over existing siding? If u are how would u deal with nailing with the proper exposure and hitting the fat part of the underlying clapboard? Ive put a bunch up but none over existing surfaces that werent in an even plan. Ive asked vinal siding guys this and all they tell me is that measly fan board insulation flattens out base for nailing.
My next new home will be my first go-round with Hardi siding so it'll be installed per manufacturer's recommendations and the accumulated wisdom of those on BT.
I like that a lot. I may have missed it but, I have started with primed Certainteed smooth. Now I wonder, ya think it'd take the same kinda look?
I had no idea that a stain could be applied..now I'm kinda sad I used smooth. BUT! I have a gable that I want to do B&B style, cuz one end is a 2/12 rake..and the waste of that long taper ( and hanging solo) has me concerned..was yours raw or preprimed?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Duane, this stuff isn't actually a "stain" that soaks into the material. It's a surface coat.
It's a clear waterbased poly of some sort with pigments in suspension.
I think the effect is the pigments settle out of the clear into the embossed grain, I wouldn't bet on getting the same look with smooth siding.
I used the pre primed stuff, got it at HD. No one here stocks it except HD.
ACE nicked me $29 gallon for the stain, the joys of small town life.
I've thought of trying a B&B, but what to use for the battens? Need something that looks like the real thing, like rough cedar or similar. I don't think Hardi would work?
Joe H
Edit to add, Call them and ask: information & expert advice 1-800-825-5382 7-5 Pacific. The guy I talked to was real helpful.
Edited 5/29/2008 9:41 pm by JoeH
Thnx for that.
Yeah, the B&B is an issue w/the battts..I can't see thin batts of hardie, nor doI want to do wood, this west wall, high up. I ain't fixing to hang something, drop the scaffold, and come back and paint.
I dunno if I can handle 4x8 sheets and fake (wood) batts, solo. But I LIKE the hardie idea.
Fark it, I might just use steel roofing panels and fit "Rayet inn with kaintuckee"
This place is tuff..I'da never built this addition as he did..Oh well.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Ditto what clewless said with one correction. It does come in either a "wood grained" texture or smooth. I'm in the middle of a large job. It looks good. We're using prepainted stuff (two coats) in a custom color chosen by the HO. The paint is Cabot (I believe) but in order to get the 15 year warranty, it must have another coat once installed.
It's a bit different to install than wood clapboards. . . heavy, and you have to hold it vertically when moving it because it bends and can easily break, but once you get used to its idiosyncrasies it goes up quick.
You need to tool-up for it with either the shears (either kett, Porter-cable, or Malco makes shears that are powered by your cordless drill) or a fiber-cement blade for the circular or chop saw. Makita makes a 7 1/4" circular saw especially for it that sort of works to keep dust to a minimum when it's hooked up to a vacuum. I've tried them all and have settled on a cheap 10" chop saw with fiber-cement blade and hooked to a switch-controlled shopvac. I've got 8' extension wings right and left of the saw and built in measuring tapes on the wings. It allows me to cut while keeping up with four guys installing.
IMHO you'd be crazy to install the unpainted stuff then have to paint. Of course I hate to paint.
Good luck.
There is also a third option to cut it - score it with a utility knife and snap it, like you would drywall. Works great, don't have to buy expensive tools for a small job.
I've heard of that ... but am skeptical after working with it a little.
I've heard of that ... but am skeptical after working with it a little.
That's the method I used when I sided my garage. Worked fine, no problems at all. The cut is a little rough, but the caulk between the joints hides that.
Much, much faster than any of the other methods I tried.
If you saw cut it there is no need to caulk it. Nice smooth edges just like wood.
If you saw cut it there is no need to caulk it. Nice smooth edges just like wood.
It still needs to be caulked - an expansion gap is required between planks, so if you don't caulk it, you still have a 1/8" gap that will let in water.
Not on my house. Tight joints, straight lines, no bows or deflections on any side sun, shade, hot or cold.
Not on my house. Tight joints, straight lines, no bows or deflections on any side sun, shade, hot or cold.
Interesting. The manufacturers specify a gap between boards, and a lot of us have seen examples where the siding bowed because an inexperienced installer did not leave a gap.
In fact, your example is the first I have encountered where it worked without gaps. Can you provide a bit more information on your climate, building dimensions, substrate, and how it was installed?
One "trick" we have used on smaller (i.e. less than 24') buildings is to rabbet the corner boards to hide the expansion gap. That makes it look like there are no gaps, but the gap is stil there, just out of site. We still leave a small gap between ends, though.
BTW, we also put aluminum flashing behind the joints. The "post it" note stuff is probably quicker and easier. Point is, some flashing behind the joints is needed, even when they are caulked.
Well now I wish I knew how to post pixs. I don't so that ends that. I'd be more than happy to send you them.
Climate is Moosehead Lake region in Maine. VERY cold winters and summer lasts about 1 month total. The house is a cape style 35X36 2 floors w/ 10 inside ceilings both floors, stick framed 2X6 on 16 w/ 1/2 Advantec wrapped in Tyvak, blind nailed into the studs, 15# splines behind joints, SS ring shanks gun applied, many windows. We also treated the detached garage in the same manner. The framing is straight and I've never once seen a weird shadow line. I'm anal and I'd do it again the same way again.
Bottom line is I wish I was as happy with the trim from Azak. On two other jobs, I spec'd the smooth Hardi but the joints were filled for cosmetic reasons but no joints were open to the corner boards. These jobs were in Chatham Ma.
Right ... thanks for jumping in there. I like the stained also because there is no additional painting after installation. I hate painting too.
I have a 16'x 19' high end-wall to a shed I'm building. It has 1/2" sheathing, 30# tar paper, and the 4x8' Hardiboard panels.
Last month, golf ball size hail hit for 30 minutes. All building roofs were damaged to the point of complete replacement to the tune of over $30,000. It came from due West. An 8' high Cedar fence with end section facing West, the hail left marks, dents, and rips across the faces of 1x6 pickets its made from. At $40 a running foot, the insurance paid to have West sections rebuilt. The West facing Hardiboard siding didn't so much as show a dent or scar...
Bill
Oh, another thing I forgot. When you butt the pieces up to one another (it only comes in 12' lengths), I've been using a 6" piece of vicor behind the butt.
There is also a product called Bearskins I think that is like a large pad of Post-its with a strip of post-it like adhesive on the back for using as a flashing behind the butts.
It's too thin to look right. The shadow lines under each board are too small.
Other than that, I've used a lot of it.
DEFINITELY do primer and two coats.
Forrest
I used it on my garage and house. It has a wood grain impression on it. I used it on the cable ends of the garage and double coated it with a good paint and that was about 10 years ago and it still looks as good as day one. the key is that it does not expand and contract like wood does. and thats what makes paint come off. I found mine in the local trader magazine and got a real good deal on it. but i dont think it is as much as when it first came out. Bottom line is. if you can aford to buy it its worth the extra money.
andy
Was in a local Lowe's yesterday and came across a siding display with Hardi products. First time I'd seen it, but I don't get to Lowe's that often, so it could have been there for months. Maybe you could see samples there, but I think you can order some. For whole houses in your area, best to contact the manufacturer for a local contractor with work you can see.
In our area Hardi or other fiber-cement siding is considered a selling point for new houses, tho it's generally on a small portion of the houses. People are big on brick here in North Alabama. You often see Hardi products shown on real estate listings for new homes in this area, so people are associating it with quality.
I'm still considering it for my house when my ship comes in (it's been sailing for years), particularly the pre-finished product.