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Header Beam Sizing

Scoutmaster | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 11, 2006 05:58am

I am looking to install a 10′ picture window into a 1 story ranch home (26′ Wide x 45′ Long). There are currently 2 windows in the front of the house (which will be replaced by the picture window with 2 side windows) with their outside edges at the ends of where the new picture window conbination will be when the old windows are removed. I live in Connecticut so winters are not too bad, but we do have snow load to consider. I am looking to get a suggestion of the sawn wood size, possibly LVL, I need to create the header beam. I will be using 1 king stud at each end with 2 trimmer studs to support the ends of the beam. I was considering using (2) 2×10 by 10′ 6″ long. Does anybody have any suggestions? Thanks.

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Replies

  1. JohnSr | Dec 11, 2006 03:21pm | #1

    2006 IRC requires 4 - 2 X 12's for a 50Lbs./sq. ft. snow load.

    I recommend you size an LVL for this application.

  2. JoeArchitect | Dec 11, 2006 03:49pm | #2

    (2) 1 3/4"x11 7/8" LVLs

  3. blue_eyed_devil | Dec 11, 2006 04:12pm | #3

    I'm sure JoeArchitect's suggestion would be enough. I'd probably use the 12 " lvls myself without checking with an engineer or architect.

    Surprisingly though, I've seen details that demanded two kings and only one trimmer on some projects. I've never been really big on adding extra trimmers because I don't like makeing extra cuts and doing the extra nailing. To satisfy most onlookers, I'd probably add the extra trimmer but if this was for my own house, I doubt I'd bother. If I felt that the post needed additional stability, I'd add the second king.

    blue

     

  4. User avater
    BossHog | Dec 11, 2006 04:34pm | #4

    Not at all enough info to make a call on this one.

    Stick framed roof or trusses?

    What kind of loading is required where you're at?

    How much room do you have?

    Fitzgerald: The rich are different from us.
    Hemingway: Yes, they have more money.
  5. User avater
    Woody78 | Dec 11, 2006 07:21pm | #5

    I'd use the 12" LVL's Joe Architect & Blu Eyed reccomend, if rest of framing is 2x6 put a layer of 2" foam in between for thermal break.

    1. blue_eyed_devil | Dec 11, 2006 10:51pm | #9

      I'd use the 12" LVL's Joe Architect & Blu Eyed reccomend, if rest of framing is 2x6 put a layer of 2" foam in between for thermal break.

      I nailed two LVLS together with 1/2 foam. The builder and architect weren't impressed. They told me that the header lost strength and that the header was spreading because the nails holding together weren't holding it tight. They also told me that structurally, it was strong enough and I didn't have to change it, but they asked that I never do it again.

      In reality, the header wasn't spreading. In those days, the lvl material often was swollen before we received it.

      blue

        

      1. User avater
        Woody78 | Dec 11, 2006 11:08pm | #10

        OOoops.

        I had an architect help me frame my addition this summer. All of our headers were 2x8 1 3/4 LVL w/ 2" foam in between. My architect buddy as well as the only true PRO on site both, my bro, both were familiar with this and felt it was common.

        None of my openings were wider than 4', (they come in the spring when I cut through to the main house), and I am not a PRO, you are. I have talked to quite a few who dont have any problem with it, hope i am still thinking we were smart 15 years from now. Maybe the span the OP was speaking of is too large for this.

        thanks for adding your insight.

        1. blue_eyed_devil | Dec 11, 2006 11:21pm | #11

          I wouldn't lose sleep over your headers. I'm quite sure they are enough to span that 4' opening.

          blue 

      2. User avater
        BossHog | Dec 11, 2006 11:26pm | #12

        I don't know if any LVL manufacturers that require shorter LVLs to be used as minimum 2 ply members. I believe they can be one ply until they're over 16" deep. So I doubt is was any big deal to have foam between them.
        Q: What do you call a rabbit with fleas?
        A: Bugs Bunny.

      3. DoRight | Dec 12, 2006 12:14am | #13

        Probably would be a better build to have just put teh foam on the outside of the double LVL.  You get the strength and a thermal break.

        1. JoeArchitect | Dec 12, 2006 12:18am | #15

          BINGO!

        2. blue_eyed_devil | Dec 12, 2006 05:25am | #16

          Probably would be a better build to have just put teh foam on the outside of the double LVL.  You get the strength and a thermal break

          Now, I just eliminate the foam and hold them to the outside on 2x6 walls. The insulators can put fiberglass on the inside then. I don't even give it a thought on 2x4 walls. I have to get a filler in there somewhere so it usually goes on the outside. It doesn't take much to retrain me.

          blue 

      4. JoeArchitect | Dec 12, 2006 12:17am | #14

        Any chance the swollen LVLs were sitting flat on the wet ground at the site or at the lumber yard?

        1. blue_eyed_devil | Dec 12, 2006 05:27am | #17

          Any chance the swollen LVLs were sitting flat on the wet ground at the site or at the lumber yard

          We routinely get swollen lvl material. If it's real bad, or causes problems, we get new stuff shipped. The swollen stuff gets sent somewhere else...probably back to me on the next job. If I can use there, I will.

          blue 

  6. Framer | Dec 11, 2006 07:27pm | #6

    You can use a 3-1/2" x 11-7/8" microlam or 2-1-3/4" x 11-7/8" microlams. Especially for a one story. I'm in NJ and we get plenty of snow here and I use these on one and two story homes. You might be able to use these and you might not depending on your area and if your getting it inspected.

    Joe Carola
  7. DoRight | Dec 11, 2006 08:19pm | #7

    I think doubled 2x10 are only good for six foot spans.

  8. sledgehammer | Dec 11, 2006 09:56pm | #8

    Don't forget squash blocks.

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