Replies

1. 
   cargin | Feb 25, 2008 09:57pm | #1

   Deezel

   Insulated headers for cold climates

   I've seen a lot of different ways to make built-up headers on job sites here in Wyoming -- from the traditional to the bizarre. The traditional method is to sandwich 1/2-in. plywood between 2x material until you get the desired thickness to match the depth of the wall studs. Unfortunately, this causes two problems. First, wood never behaves the way it should, and by the time the header is finished, it isn't the same thickness as the wall. For a 2x6 wall, for example, the header often ends up at 5-5/8 in. or thicker, if the material is cupped or twisted. When trim time rolls around, you have unhappy carpenters. Second, this kind of header has no insulative value.

   The drawing shows the header that I've been assembling to solve both of these problems. It's essentially a box beam with plywood tops and bottoms, and sides made out of either 2x or, my favorite, laminated lumber. The result is a header precisely the same dimension as the wall and a continuous void the length of the header for insulation.

   My engineer had no problems with the structural capability of this design. The key is to provide adequate nailing through the plywood into the sides. For these headers, I used 8d nails spaced on the same centers as the perimeter nails in our plywood wall sheathing. The results were the absolutely most perfect, easiest-to-work-with headers I have ever seen.

   View Image

   Bill Welch, Jackson, WY

   From Fine Homebuilding 115, pp. 28

   May 1, 1998

    

   Rich
1. 
   Deezel | Feb 25, 2008 10:01pm | #2

   Thanks Rich !

   Now I can stop searching ! :)

   Deezel

    

1. 
   cargin | Feb 25, 2008 10:05pm | #3

   Deezel

   BT to the rescue again.

   I was just messing around over the noon hour.

   BT is like a hundred eyes all looking out for ya.

   Rich

1. 
   Deezel | Feb 25, 2008 10:10pm | #4

   I couldn't agree more.  Where did you see it last ?  I assume I was reading a re-printed article.  I definitely havn't seen any 1998 FHB's.

   ps - you also saved my co-worker who had also picked up the scent

1. 
   cargin | Feb 25, 2008 11:02pm | #5

   Deezel

   For $20, if you are a subscriber, you can access the FHB site and look up any old article.

   Can be useful or frustrating.

   Rich

2. 
   MikeSmith | Feb 25, 2008 11:30pm | #6

   cargin... we build insulated box headers  for spans up to 8'

   this is allowed and spec'd in the IRC code

   for 2x4 walls we use 2x3 plus 1/2"  ply in and out

   we either install foam  in the cavity or we drill the header skin and blow cellulose in

   the two sizes listed are 9" depth and 15" depth  and the allowed spans depend on  the width of the house  ( from 24' to 32' )

   as long as we stick to the code we don't have to get engineering when we use these headers

   for greater spans, if we wanted to use  your  design , we'd have to have engineering

   to get around that , i just have our lumber yard spec the lvl we need   and  give me a print out  for the BIMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

3. 
   cargin | Feb 26, 2008 12:04am | #7

   Mike

   Not my design.

   I was just fooling around over noon hour, when I saw the OP request and I thought I would do a search on the FHB site.

   for 2x4 walls we use 2x3 plus 1/2"  ply in and out

   Just to be clear. Do you rip a 2 x 4 to 2.5 ". One for the top and one for the bottom and then nail the 1/2" ply to the side?

   Sounds easier to me.

   I don't do much framing. So I can't advise someone on proper sizing.

   Rich

4. 
   MikeSmith | Feb 26, 2008 12:14am | #8

   well, you can rip some 2x....

    but i just buy some 2x3 studs .. the max span is 8' , so the longest i'd need would be a 10' stud  ( 8'-3" header )

   90% of our headers will be under the 8' limit so we use quite  a few of these insulated box headers

   edit:

   BTW... if the wall is 2x6 , then you use 2x4 + the (2) pcs of 1/2 ply brings the header out  to flush

   Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   Edited 2/25/2008 4:20 pm ET by MikeSmith

5. 
   cargin | Feb 26, 2008 02:47am | #10

   Mike

   2 x 3s are not part of the inventory out here.

   That threw me for a loop.

   Rich

6. 
   MikeSmith | Feb 26, 2008 06:19am | #11

   isn't that strange ?...

    i  thought every area carried 2x3 for partitions

   lot's of walls have no need to be 2x4... so space minded designers have  spec'd them in lot's of situations

   sometimes if we need an inch, we'll use 2x3

   oh well, just another example of regional differencesMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

7. 
   frammer52 | Feb 26, 2008 05:32pm | #12

   mike, up here the regular lumber yards don't stock, but the big boxs do

8. 
   MikeSmith | Feb 26, 2008 05:44pm | #13

   isn't that funny...

    i would have thought that universally, the tract builders would have 2x3 partitions where ever they could

   it's one of those things where they can save money without compromising  the quality  ... not all partitions need to be 2x4Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

9. 
   JDRHI | Feb 26, 2008 05:52pm | #14

   2 X 3's readily available around here, but NEVER spec'd.

   Course, the quality of them in these parts is truly substandard. I doubt I could find a dozen, solid , straight pieces in one trip to the yard.

   Mostly used for on the flat furring round here.

   Beware the bikini clad female.

   She may be interpreted as offensive.

    

    

10. 
    john7g | Feb 26, 2008 06:09pm | #15

    saw 2x3s at the despot the other day and wondered what they were used for.  Maybe they use 'em in trailers around here but haven't seen them in a house. 

2. 
   Riversong | Feb 26, 2008 01:50am | #9

   You can build much lighter box beams from 2x and CDX:

   http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/Z416.pdf?CFID=6909442&CFTOKEN=31910354

    

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