Are header hangers “OK” to use by code?
I want to replace an exterior door on the non-gable side of the house, with a wider door. If I can just remove the jack studs I get the room for wider without too much “surgery” on the wall assembly. Any downside besides nailing for casing is inhibited at the upper corners?
The code requires installing an approved material to slow the spread of fire between floors and adjacent vertical and horizontal cavities — here are the allowed materials and required locations.
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Replies
What will be the rough opening width?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
38 1/2 " with a double 2x8 header.
How many floors above? I take it the roof lands on this wall? Do you know the snow load for your area?
I think hangers are encouraged, but will have to check the book! Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
Yes, roof rafters land on this single story wall. I do not know the snow loads for Long Island, NY. I figure the double 2x8 header is plenty for 38 1/2 inches rough opening, which allows me to go from a 32" door to a 36" door.
"I figure the double 2x8 header is plenty for 38 1/2 inches rough opening, which allows me to go from a 32" door to a 36" door."When I frame for a 32" door the RO is 34". For a 36" door the rough opening is 38".If you had a 32" door and lets say the rough opening was 34-1/2" then when to take your two jack studs out you'll only have a 37-1/2" RO.How are you getting a 38-1/2" RO?Joe Carola
I'm thinking with Joe, but you could only have 34" (round here, it's nominal door width + 2", tight if everything's not plumb), take out the jacks 37".Nailing trim isn't a problem, don't nail there<G>But like Joe also asked, how are gonna hog out the sheathing to get the hanger in? There's morenlikely nails I:( The sheetrock side shouldn't be too hard, though<G>... What in the gosh darn golly have you done to Rez?
He can just stick a wedge in between the sheathing and the header and cut any nails out with a sawzall and then just scribe the hanger with the nail hole patterns onto a piece of paper and position the paper where it should be on top of the sheathing so when he slips his hanger up in between the sheathing and header he can nail right threw the sheathing so he doesn't have to guess where the nail holes are for the hanger.Joe Carola
Presently, there is a 32 inch wide "Dutch Door" there with a VERY thick jamb. I have exposed the studs on the interior. Spacing between the jack studs is 35 inches. And if I remove the two jack studs the distance between the king studs is 38 1/2 inches.
I can nail thru the exterior sheathing thru the hanger like you outlined. Or I can cut back the sheathing and nail directly. Then just nail back the cut pieces. The sheathing on this 1942 house is tongue and groove planks. The whole house siding will be replaced so I'm not concerned too much about it.
There's nothing wrong with using header hangers as long as you do 2 things:
1. Install them according to the manufacturer's instructions.
2. Don't exceed their design load.
Thanks for the reply. Do you see any downsides besides the aforementioned nailing of caseing at the top corners around the door?
Another I just thought of, is one 2x4 enough strength for the hinge side for door weight considerations? On the door latch side, is one 2x4 strong enough for security issues i.e. against kick-ins?
Just checking, are you saying you will not be able to send a fastener thought the upper corners of that hanger? If so, I'd advise against that. Instead, create a template of hanger holes, and use it to fine where the hole would be behind your finished wall surface. Drill a hole 5/16 at that point and hammer in your 16d nail - use a punch for the last bit so you don't whack the trim or siding(or use a screw if you are insane like me), That hole will be easy to refinish and conceal.
As far as stiffening that 2x4, I could think of a couple of ways:
- Use a steel C channel that is used as a top/bottom plate for steel stud walls. Not sure of the inside dimensions, but they should be close. Even if you have to cut a side to make it an L, it will provide a layer of ridgidity. Make sure there is a vapor barrier between the metal and the wood so condensation does not promote rot. Nail (or staple) every 6" with 1.25" galvanized joist hanger nails.
- Us a 1"x1"x1/8" steel L channel along the exposed corners of the 2x4. Drill and countersink holes for screws or nails, offset every 6". You may have to let in the stud a little if your clearance in tight.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I can get at the header hanger nail holes where it attaches to the studs and header. Just a little drywall patching that mostly is covered by the trim casing.
What I was refering to is I won't be able to drive finishing nails thru the door casing at the upper corners because the hanger is right there. I suppose I could drill a 1/16" hole thru the casing and hanger and then hand nail. Or glue and pin the casing top piece to the side pieces. Even better would be to use small biscuits at the miter.
I will probably bite the bullet a bit and add a full length king stud next to the present king studs. Just makes more drywall patching and moving a nailed-on switch box for the outside light. Oh, and careful slicing of the packed in cellulose in the wall.
Wish I had thought of a wider door before I had the cellulose installed.
How are you going to nail the other side of the hanger going up the header that's in between the header and the sheathing?Joe Carola
Edited 11/18/2005 5:32 pm ET by Framer