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What is the normal framing height to the bottom of the header from floor when framing 9′ walls. I was going to use 82″. The bedroom windows are 5′ tall which places the bottom of the window only 22″ up from floor which seems to low.
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Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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82" is standard r.o. height for doors and window header height. If you start moving it up or down for just the windows, you will loose the horizontal trim line continuity.
Think of a door and window within a few feet of each other. Push the window up a few inches at the head and the cassings don't line up. Looks like you screwed up. Push it up a lot, like in a gable end wall, and it looks like it was designed that way. You only have an extra foot of wall, so you can get a "lot".
If you don't like how close they come to the floor, buy shorter windows.
*I would draw it out on some graph paper first and see what the overall picture looks like . It's alot easier to erase a few lines on paper than tear out a couple of headers.Dave
*Joel, This is going to be your own preference. The 22" from the floor is well within the code for my area. I think here in MA the code is 18" to the glass. I am not positive of this number but have framed many houses with the R.O. only 14" from the floor and have not had a problem with inspections. Just framing according to plans which had to be approved prior to framing. My own preference would be to line up with door heights. Top of all openings would be the same height.
*I also think it's more prefference than anything, but I would line up your headers with door openings unless there are transom units involved. Then we still line up the top of main window with door openings and raise header the additional height of the transom. The 22" to floor isn't a code problem but keep in mind that if it is a small room, you may be tight for furniture space. Also, if it's a bedroom, you must use a window unit that meets the egress code requirements. All to often this gets overlooked.
*By the way, while we're on the subject. What is your personal preferences on where to put the cripples vs. the header on these walls? Above or below? Personally, I like to hold the header tight to the upper wall plate and stick the cripples below. This just seems more solid for anything going above the wall, and it leaves you with an "out" if there is a problem concerning the rough opening height. What do you guys think?
*Mark,I kinda like that idea. It probably uses an extra piece of wood, assuming you double the door header. When I first thought about it, I was thinking that it might not be as solid on a heavy exterior door, but I don't think the header does as much for jamb rigidity as the studs.If for some reason a change needed to be made for a taller door, no big deal eh?
*I went to 7 foot doors and lined top of windows up with them.Good luck.
*In my house, we have 9' first floor ceilings and 8' second floor ceilings. All of the internal doors are 6'8".On the second floor, the tops of windows and doors are lined up at the same height of a 6'8" door. However, on the first floor, the tops of the windows are a foot higher at approximately 7'8". For exterior doors, there is a transom above the doors to line them up with the higher windows. It looks good. Having the first floor windows a foot higher than the interior doors looks just fine because they are not on the same walls... and also because they are far enough appart so that it does not look like a mistake. I think having windows at 6'8 would look too low with 9' ceilings./Jim Pappas
*Hey Jim, I agree about making the windows a foot taller on the first floor where the ceiling is 9' . Whenever I've done that I've used windows that were a foot taller as well, so that the sill of the windows are all the same height.