Planning for converging 2/0 pocket doors and want to know what size wooden header to span the 8′ opening on the first floor of a 1.5 story home. It’s a 2×4 bearing wall.
Thinking doubled Doug Fir 2×12″s and using the Simpson HH4 (header hanger) because I don’t have room for the trimmer studs on either side due to mechanicals. Thanks in advance.
Wayne
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For an interior load-bearing wall, my span charts show a max of 8' 1" for 2 Doug fir 2x12's in a house 20' wide, 7' in a house 28' wide, and 6' 3" in a house 36' wide. These all require two jack studs at each end. I didn't see but didn't look very long in the Simpson literature as to whether the HH4 hangers count as an equivalent to two jack studs. You might need to verify that and consider LVLs to get the span/load rating you need unless you're willing to fiddle with a steel flitch plate to stiffen your 2x12's.
Thanks Flash 28,
Always great to have input.
Thank you
Can you extend the header into the adjacent walls?
Unless the width of your house (length of the rafters/floor joists supported on the exterior wall) is pretty small (as Flash28 described above) or you are in an area with very little snow, 8' is probably a bit too far for two 2x12's. LVLs are probably the way to go.
Thanks MurrayGuy:
I appreciate the input and advice.
Table R602.7(2) Girder and Header Spans for interior bearing walls will give you the answer. It was revised in the 2018 IRC. You can see a free version of the code at https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IRC2018
The answer to the size of the header is based on how deep the building is from front to back. For instance, if the building is 24 ft. deep a double 2x12 will only span 7'-7". And most important - it requires double jacks. The SST header hanger can only replace one jack and since you can't install the header hangers on jacks you'll have to figure out how to frame the opening area to get jacks in there.
And then to complicate things further, you have to consider what the jacks will be supported by. You'll need squash blocks between the subfloor and the beam or wall supporting the floor you're installing the door on. If there's a wall you'll need to insert studs beneath the squash blocks. If there's a beam below the first floor joists you'll need to make sure that beam can handle the concentrated loads of the jack studs and squash blocks.
All that said - if there's no building department review of the work and you aren't concerned about following prescriptive measures you can just install the double 2x12 with the header hangers and everything will probably be fine.
Thanks Mike:
Reviewing it tomorrow with a carpenter friend. Appreciate the input and your informative articles through the years.
Wayne
We here in California just don't understand this double 2x header thing. Standard practice in 8' walls is now to use 4x12 headers everywhere. No plywood, no cripples. Just right for a 6-8 door. Unless your labor is really really cheap it's the most economical way to go.
Except you can't buy 4x12 on the east coast.
Agreed, I wish!
I never even imagined such a thing!!!!!!