Replies

1. 
   goldhiller | Sep 21, 2002 04:57pm | #1

   JoJo,

   What is it that you're trying to remove the paint from?

   Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
1. 
   JoeJoyce | Sep 23, 2002 03:24am | #6

   Thanks for responding.  I am about to tackle the rake and soffit boards on my 1922 bungalow.  The rake board is 8" wide and the soffitt is 12" wide.  The angle goes from about 12 feet above ground at both ends to a high point of about 30'.  I need something faster than a heat gun - which works fine, but is swlow.  I wanted to try a heat plate ( or whatever they are called) just to see if it is faster.

   I've been restoring the window trim, roof line (there are roof joists that extend from the roof about a foot on 2 sides - been stripping the joists and roof boards) and  porch.  There are many many coats of paint on the house, so I am bringing it down to the wood, sanding and then repainting.  tedious, tons of work and time, but the end product is fantastic.

   Do you have any thoughts or ideas based on what I said?  Any info greatly appreciated!  Joe

1. 
   r_ignacki | Sep 23, 2002 03:57am | #7

   Considered chemical stripper? # # # #   # # # ,  # # #--# # # # !

2. 
   MarkH128 | Sep 23, 2002 04:07am | #8

   If you use the Wagner "Electric Paint Remover" wear a respirator. The fumes can contain vaporized lead, but paint fumes from heat striping paint make me ill quickly anyway.  The smoke will make your eyes water and get sore, and smoke seems to seek eyeballs for some reason.

   Get a long handled scraper to keep your hands away from the heat and wear safety glasses or goggles and gloves.

   Beware of extremely hot or possibly burning paint geting in your hair or under your shirt, in your ear etc. I have set my shirt on fire and burned my hair.

   Always keep looking for smoldering paint or wood. You will find a pace that will soften paint without it burning, going too slow will cause charing of the wood, too fast will leave a layer of paint that is harder to remove than a complete thick layer.

   Use a sharp edge on the scraper, and on curved moldings you might want to custom grind a blade to fit the molding. Also try to not gouge the wood. It will show even if you sand it out smoth. Redwood will gouge very easily. You will have to lightly sand where you stripped the paint or the new paint will fail very early.

3. 
   goldhiller | Sep 23, 2002 07:01am | #9

   Jojo,

   I took our 1875 Vic’s bevel siding back to bare wood about 5 years ago. It was loaded with many, many thick coats of paint and I decided that if I was going to do the job, I’d best bite the bullet and just do it before I was too dang old to hack it.

   I’ve stripped with heat guns and strippers and knew full well that I didn’t care to take this one on via either of those methods. And so…I resorted to an old tried and true means to accomplish the job……..le propane torche. Now what I’ve got here isn’t your run of the mill propane torch. I’ve got a set of four different size heads ranging from about ¼” to 1” diameters. I used the largest one (1”), hooked up to a “B” tank (the size you see on grills) which sets on the ground whilst I’m on the ladder. The head is hooked up to the torch with about 30’ of “rubber” hose that’s rated for carrying propane and acetylene. I have an adjustable regulator mounted on the outlet side of my tank that is set to about 5-7 lbs pressure for this job. The result is a large-ish flame of just the right heat from the tip to be easily controllable and yet very effective. This outfit made the job both fast and easy (relatively speaking) and yet is safe to run as long as you’re not asleep at the wheel. Torch in one hand and scraper in the other. It’s still a lot like work, but the progress rate is fast and encouraging. Keep a sparker in your back pocket to light that torch.

   Several friends have come to borrow this outfit for the same type job at their houses after seeing the thing work here. Some have come back more than once to borrow it. It’s been on loan as much as it’s here for the last few years. Word gets around, don’t ya know.

   Okay…I’m ready. Everybody’s going to pile on me now about the safety issues of open flame.

   This description is intended only for educational purposes and should never be taken as an encouragement to attempt what has been described.

   There, am I covered? Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

2. 
   MarkH128 | Sep 21, 2002 06:16pm | #2

   I have seen them, but not for a while. Warner made a #382 heat plate, but I don't see it listed anymore. These things are dangerous, and liability probably caused their demise. Try a good paint store to see if they are still available.

   Edit:

   Try this: http://paintprosusa.safeshopper.com/10/93.htm?291

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/21/2002 11:31:25 AM ET by MARKH128

1. 
   grantlogan | Sep 21, 2002 11:11pm | #3

   Warner still makes 'em. I bought a new one recently at the paint store. Yes, they are dangerous, but so's a plumber's torch. If used right, they are less prone to start fires than a heat gun and much more productive (and less noisy). Necessary equipment to go with one would be a resperator and a fire extinguisher. If I find the web page I'll post it.

   gl

   What do you do when you see an endangered animal eating an endangered plant?

3. 
   chiefclancy | Sep 22, 2002 04:07am | #4

   I don't know if this is what you're looking for, but on p. 114 of the brand new FHB (arrived in my mailbox today), there's a review of a heat element that uses infrared to soften the paint. It looks pretty cool... check out http://www.silentpaintremover.com

4. 
   rjw | Sep 22, 2002 04:11am | #5

   Old House Journal used to sell them; I'd try there.