Replies

1. 
   IronHelix | Oct 17, 2004 02:22pm | #1

   I would contact the manufacturer of the brand of gutter tape that you wish to use.

   They will give you specs and limitations, as well as possible controls.

   My experience with gutter heater cables has been less than pleasant. 

   In most cases the owner eventually had them removed. 

   Short lifespan and ice & snow damage were at the top of the list...thirdly was owner inflicted injuries via primitive ice removal efforts.

   But, this has been a few years....check for newer technologies  by using Google.

   ............Iron Helix

2. 
   seeyou | Oct 17, 2004 02:26pm | #2

   First, 100' with a downspout at each end won't work very well, if at all. You'd need 6.25" of fall minimum.

   You need to size the gutter and downspouts properly and change the design to accomodate things such as lots of leaf accumulation and freezing. Planning heat tape from the gitgo seems wrong to me. Try to make the system work without such bandaids and then use them if problems arise. Who would be in charge of turning on the heat tape? How would you know when it went bad? And on and on...........

   Here's Andy E's take on proper sizing. The one thing I would stress about it, is if you're close to the maximum capacity in your design, move up a size.

   http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00046.asp

   I invented cool tape.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/17/2004 7:33 am ET by greencu

3. 
   DanH | Oct 17, 2004 04:14pm | #3

   Remember that the stuff needs to be replaced every 3-5 years.

4. 
   MojoMan | Oct 17, 2004 05:30pm | #4

   I like to think that if a roof is properly insulated and ventilated, heat tape will not be needed. I know there are special situations where heat may be a last resort, but it always strikes me as an annoyance and a waste of energy.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

1. 
   Hubedube | Oct 18, 2004 07:07pm | #8

   I AGREE with you 100 %

    its not necessary.  

1. 
   dcb | Oct 18, 2004 07:42pm | #10

   This building is located at an elevation of 8,500 feet- this is 8500' above sea level.

   It is my experience that anything short of a near vertical fall will freeze in short order - like 6ft. Even a vertical fall of water will freeze if cold enough temps are present.

   Just wondering if anybody else out there has tried heat tape throughout the gutter system - we are located in a climate where the freeze and thaw cycle is a common occurance. Combine this with a terrible roof design and we have ice dams from hell.

   I see this as necessary to keep h2o moving all the into the ground.

5. 
   Stuart | Oct 17, 2004 05:53pm | #5

   Raychem/Tyco is one of the better brands of heat tape.  They have an application guide on their website that may be of help.

   http://www.tycothermal.com/northamerica/english/heating/products.asp?can=1002&pt=appl&adid=15

6. 
   RichBeckman | Oct 18, 2004 04:48pm | #6

   "I am in the process of installing a gutter system on a building with a  flat roof..."

   That I understand.

   "...which is located at 8500'."

   Am I the only one who doesn't know what this means???

   I'm guessing the roof is 8500 square feet.

   I agree with above comments that you should size everything large enough to avoid needing the heat tape.

   Seems to me that heat tape in the gutters would lead to downspouts frozen solid and split. Not that I know much about it.

   Rich Beckman

   Another day, another tool.

1. 
   IMERC | Oct 18, 2004 05:58pm | #7

   8500' elevation... (above sea level)

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

7. 
   PatMcG | Oct 18, 2004 07:35pm | #9

   Practice here gives two options:

   1) No gutters, and parapets around the roof. Downspouts are BIG and run down the inside of the buildings walls, in heated space, into storm drains. I've seen this in warehouses and, I think, in a big box store.

   2) No gutters, and no parapets. Give the roof some overhang, and the water falls into gravel filled trenches with drain tiles. I've seen this lately on big barns in SE Penna farm country.

   I agree that a properly constructed roof should not need heat tape.