My Heil combo force air a/c-furnace unit started to leak gas. Gas company determined it was the 24volt gas valve inside the furnace leaking. Tech thinks it’s the gasket inside the valve unit that went bad. The furnace heat function operates correctly, i.e. turns on and off as needed. Suffice it to say, I shut the gas line off.
The official part name/number is: Valve, gas(nat) #612916.
It looks like it’s pretty straightforward to fix (although I’ve never done any gas work other than capping off a no longer used line). The replacement part is a complete unit that has 3 hookups into it.
Question:
Is there any chance that a different part in the furnace is faulty and is telling the furnace to keep the valve open ever so slightly? The leak is very slight…no hiss but noticeable smell near the furnace.
I have a voltmeter and some/little experience using it. Is there anything else I should check before ordering the replacement part?
The part is $250 and I want to make sure identify the faulty part correctly.
Replies
Greetings emaxx,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
94969.19
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How did they do the leak test? Did you see the results?
It is pretty easy to go in there with soapy water and a small paintbrush confirm that the valve is the source of the leak if you need confirmation.
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"Though I don't think" added Deep Thought "that you're going to like it."
Except if the leak is through the burner port (which I suspect) the soap test won't work.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
Gas company tech had a little machine that (I think) sucked in air and then reported the concentration of gas. It was a machine with a clear tube. He put the tube in various spots and took readings. When he put it near the gas valve, the reading jumped from zero (don't remember the actual reading) but the tech said it was actually a pretty bad gas leak.
For about a year after we moved into our house you could detect the vague smell of gas when you came in the front door. I assumed it was just the odor that gas (actually propane) furnaces gave off and didn't worry much about it, though it bugged my wife.Then one day I was sitting on the utility room floor working on the pipes for a new water softener and I heard this "sssss" sound. Moved my head around until it was strongest and found my ear right next to the gas pipe, at the joint downstream of the shutoff valve. Turned off the valve, disassembled the pipe, and reassembled with some Teflon and the "sssss" and smell were both gone.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
With the leak isolated to the valve area, a soap test should help isolate the leak. If the leak was internal to the valve and the detection by the tech was near the burners, it could be internal to the valve. But that does not sound like the case with this one from your description.Unless there is a hole or corrosion, best bet is to probably pull and replace the valve.jose c.
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"Though I don't think" added Deep Thought "that you're going to like it."
heres a link to that part, alittle cheaper,220.00. do a search on ebay or elsewhere on the net.
http://www.heatcoolparts.com/webpages/Tempstar/PilotsSensorsGasValves.html
about 1/2 way down page
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
DUCT TAPE.
the only "little bit of gas" that should go thru the valve is the pilot light.
is it a standing pilot or elec ingnition type. even at that if the pilot isn't burning and it's letting gas thru,you need a new valve.
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
DUCT TAPE.
It's an electronic ignition.