Why do I always get bubbles in my poly. Using minwax floor poly (oil Based). Doing a roughly 3’x4′ counter on site. Have used best china bristle brush I could find (chisel point), pre dipped it in mineral spirits, applying to spotlessly clean, 220 sanded surface at ambient room temp. (72*). WAS’UP?
Could spray – have automotive type sprayer – but wish to avoid this with all the masking required. Am I missing something?
Let’s not confuse the issue with facts!
To prevent moisture buildup and improve performance, install a continuous air barrier—such as drywall or specialized membranes—under tongue-and-groove boards or other interior wall paneling.
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Replies
Could be you are over working it..around Raised Panels and cope and stick corners..load the brush (but not dripping) and lay teh poly down try not to go back and forth. If all else fails try a pad painter. They are the bees knees.
Is this new or refinish?
Could be old impurities in under from shellac, wax, spills, whatever
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Try exhaling gently on the bubbles. Don't know if it's the CO2, or what, but it helps. Other than that, you probably need to reduce it a little, not unlike what you'd be doing if spraying.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
I like to thin, sand between coats and rag off the last coat. Brush on the thinned last coat, wet a cotton rag with thinner and wring out. Rag off as you brush on. Comes out slicker than owl poop.
KK
Sphere saved me typing!
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Thats so ya can get that cedar up...
could maybe be shaking it before using instead of gently stirring.
http://www.whizzrollers.com/whizz/velour/velour.htm
I've also found Velour roller covers are the cats asz for laying down poly or lac on a large surface if you can't spray. I found them recently at the paint store and used them on several projects lately when you're done it looks like they may leave a texture but with the BM poly acrylic and lac I've used it levels out and leaves a very smooth surface.
also worked well laying down thinned enamel the other day.
Edited 12/17/2003 7:36:27 PM ET by CAG
Hey GDCARPENTER,
Minwax has a great site giving in depth info on how to avoid and then remove the air bubbles, (CO2) from a propane torch. Here is a link:
http://www.minwax.com/products/protective/fast-poly-faq.cfm
The page I referred you to is the one for fast drying poly for the floor, and gives four tips on how to avoid bubbles. You can navigate around on that site, check out the directions, and FAQ for their products, they have some great info.
Hope this helps,
Cork in Chicago
Thanx to all. Hesitate to thin out, will be counter in custom wine rack area I built, worried thinning may weaken. Might just try thinned coat wipe on for final 'shine'. All else fails tomorrow it'll be sprayed.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
Dont hesitate to thin oil base poly. The chemical bonds are exactly the same if you don't thin more than 25%.
the trick is to get the area free of dust
If your worried about pushing the chemical bonds then only thin 10% but use your best quality brush ( I like badger) and lay it on real real slow. This reduces the turbulance at the tip of the brush, which minimizes the air intake.
The thinning helps to slow the skin from forming which in turn helps to release the bubbles which do get in.
I wouldn't know if blowing on a project helps or not... I just put a coat on and leave to clean the brush and don't come back for hours. I hate stirring up dustChristmas is coming..... should I buy the wife that new tablesaw ....hmmmm
I have gone to thinning and using a rag to wipe on all of the coats. Just takes an couple more coats.
Michael Dresner (sp? need to look up the name) has written several articles where he ragging it on, straight out of the can.
For brushing start with the brush with relatively ligh pressure and then as you move and the fisish flows out keep adding a little more pressure. Then the the brush, without adding any more finish, and "tipping it off". Hold the brush vertical with the tips of the brissles just touch the finish and going across.
I have seen this is many different finishing articles, but Jeff Jewitt shows it in his Hand Applied Finishs and there is also a video available.
I just did a google.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00063.asp
"Avoid the choppy, back-and-forth stroke used to apply house paint --i t will result in an uneven surface and lots of bubbles. Instead, slowly pull the brush across the panel in one continuous motion until the brush reservoir is empty. Hold the brush at about a 45° angle when it first contacts the surface and gradually increase the angle to almost 90° by the end of the stroke. As this bristle angle increases, more varnish is released from the reservoir and flows to the wood surface. I usually get a stroke length of about 18 in. or 20 in. with a fully loaded 2-in. brush.
After the entire surface has been coated, "tip off" the varnish by lightly dragging the bristle tips through the wet finish. Tipping off with an unloaded brush levels out the uneven areas in the wet varnish film and removes unwanted bubbles at the same time. You don't need to sand between coats of varnish unless you have to remove some defect. Simply sanding to increase adhesion is not necessary unless the dried varnish coat is older than six months."
Bill, Funny I worked with Michael Dresdner for a while back in the early '90's...just talked with him 'bout a month ago. He would and I can assure you first recommend you buy his book <g>..no, seriously you are correct as to the brush load, but again both he and I would advise a pad painter.