Help -Beadboard ceiling in a wine cellar
PAK
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I installed an unfinished fir beadboard ceiling in a wine cellar in the winter and during the summer the ceiling buckled in four or five spots. The humidity in the room ranges from 50% to 80%.
I have removed the ceiling buckles by using braces to flatten the drooping boards. What is the best way for me to correct this problem?
Is taking the ceiling down and finishing both sides of the boards the best solution?
What would be the best finish to use?
Thanks
Replies
Is all the humidity coming only from below the beadboard, or is there moisture above also? If the moisture is from both sides, I would guess your beadboard ceiling should be replaced with a stouter material, either one that is impervious to moisture, or one that is more porous while remaining unaffected structurally. I'm just guessing, since I'm not familiar with wine cellar construction in general, or your particular circumstances specifically.
Huck,
The humidity is coming from below. There is a vapor barrier and insulation (R30) above the boards.
Peter
I think the best solution is to remove the boards and let them aclimate to the humidity of the room. The material buckled because they expanded once the humidity was acheived for the particluar type of wine.
I don't think that any finish will really stop moisture from swelling any wood materials. Just my opinion on the last statement
The boards were in the cellar almost 3 months before being installed and are 1" x 6" x 16'.
Edited 2/3/2006 3:33 pm ET by PAK
Edited 2/3/2006 3:34 pm ET by PAK
Is this a warranty job, or a paying job? It seems going back with a 2-by material, maybe a t&g with some expansion room built in, would be more in order.
Edited 2/3/2006 4:58 pm by Huck
In the past we have let the outside edge of the beadoard ceiling "float" on crown. In other words you will butt the crown up to the beadboard and only nail the crown into the top plate of the wall. This will give more than enough room for expansion/contraction.
With that range of humidity, you must engineer in the ability for expansion (and contraction as the humidifier most likely cycles on and off). Many ways to do it and suggesting one without first hand knowledge of the project may be irresponsible, but under a crown, as previously posted is good as is a space between every few boards with a batton strip (trim piece) conceiling the expansion joint.