Does anyone have any experience cutting glass/mirrors ? Tools, techniques, etc . . .
Here’s where I’m goign with this– I finished the christmas train garden last night and want to cut an old cheapie bath mirror to work in under the cotton to use as frozen lakes. I’ve seen the hand held cutters- Anyone know if they work? I have a dremel also- will that work?
I don’t need precision. But I do need relatively easy with cheap tools (no specialized stuff) and I need clean edges that aren’t sharp.
Any thoughts?
Replies
Hand cutters work fine for most glass, mirrors can be trickier so try a scrap if you can. Just buy a GOOD cutter maybe at an art supply or glass shop. I've never needed any kerosene etc as a lubricant. One steady long score, don't go back and forth. Then support the scored line over a pencil or a thin piece of wood just behind the line and pivot it down smartly. Don't "press" the cut but rather go for a gentle levering type of snap. Sand the cut edge smooth.
Good Luck!
PaulB
Adding a few to what Paul said:
Clean the surface before you scratch. Using a good carbide or diamond cutter is to be re-emphasized.
Since you are doing a curve, it will break clean if you simply tap..tap...tap... with the ball end of the cutter, you will be able to see the crack start, don't force it, continue to tap..tap... tap... and the pieces will literally fall into the desired sections.
The resulting edges will be sharp, sandpaper or emery cloth works well to smooth the shapr edges.
Edit if not obvious: scratch on the glass side, tap..tap..tap on the coating side (opposite side from what was scribed)
Edited 12/7/2005 8:58 am ET by junkhound
What they said and to emphasize;
One pass with a new glass cutter. If you take a second pass it will dull the wheel so I was told. Most used ones you pick up are dull.
I had to make a cut like you but the edges were to show and it was a little more serious as it was a display using very thick glass . I called a glass guy that had retired from owning a glass comapany to ask him before I screwed it up. To put the edge to be kept on a solid padded surface was the next order and to break it like you meant it . That was the hardest to do in my gut. You will only break into the remaing piece if you dont break it crisp. I played with some scrap glass and found it to be true. I dressed it with a carbide belt sander #100 grit.
Tim
if the cotton is going over it, don't worry about trying to get curves.
you say train "garden"- is this going outside?
Nope, this is indoors. Train Garden as in under the tree. 11x4. Three independent loops and two levels. And still not big enough.
Thanks for the suggestions all. I will stop and get tools tonight and give a whirl. Nothing really to lose in trying it....
What others said.
Inside curves are the hardest to break. If there is any severe curve you have to do relief cuts on the scrap side so you can break in few pieces.
A good cutter will cost you around $50 which has a self-feeding old reservoir. If you are only doing this as a one time thing consider going to a stain glass studio to just pay them to use their ware. They have good cutters and wet diamond table grinder so you can trim and polish the edge at the same time.