Hi all,
Im a diy’er and have been remodeling my parents laundry room, actually more like finishing it finishing it over the summer.
It was a necessary project and I also looked at it as (more importantly to me) a chance to improve and expand my skills and test my workmanship. I redid plumbing to install a washer valve box and fix a leaking pipe. Did electrical work to get wires up into joist and stud bays where they belong and. Insulated for sound. And put up new drywall.
In putting up the drywall I was determined to learn to use a cut out tool for the electrical boxes and mostly it went pretty well, however I do have some jumps and over runs to repair which is okay with me because until now I had never used a cut out tool. So I am a little embarrased but on the other hand how will you learn if you never try. Before I did the work I read all the info I could find in fine homebuilding on using a cutout tool. My tool was a craftsman cutout tool loaded with rotozip guide point bits. I think it was less of an equipment issue and more of an experience and “feel” issue.
The boxes I chose to use that gave me the most trouble were the metal boxes with plaster rings. Afterwards I realized that the box sat flush with the stud and gave me a smaller surface to guide the bit on. Actually most of the damage could be covered with larger outlet plates if a repair doesn’t go well.
So my question is what are some tricks for repairing the damage and would a setting type compound be better for patching around the boxes than regular joint compound?
Sorry for the long story and thanks in advance for any replies and advice.
Webby
Replies
No worries. The rotozips get goin sometimes. Even people who do it everyday bugger a box now and then. If it's a really big mess, rather than setting compound, which wouldn't really have a backing to grab on to, slit the area wider, just like you're doing any other kind of patch, and fill it in with a scrap. You ever run across a pic of how to make a patch with wings for an electrical box? I can't really draw it. I'll try to describe. You draw a tic tac toe box on the back of a scrap. The middle is the size you want to keep. The edges are maybe inch and a half overhang. You slit the back, break it, and pull the waste off gently so you have instant paper tape around the patch. Add mud, insert, knife, on with life.
"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
called a "Georgia Patch" in D.C......
I usually use plastic boxes when installing drywall.The fact that you used steel boxes with plaster rings I would use a setting compound. Durabond 90 (or 30 if your in a hurry) works well. Use this for the first coat only since this stuff does not sand or feather well. I finish up with a premix joint compound.
Take your time, numerous coats to do a good job. Oversized coverplates are not a preferred fix for badly cut outlet boxes.
Technically, I believe there is also a code issue of how much of a gap around the boxes is allowed. Chimney effect and all that. It might not be same rule everywhere, but in general it is a good idea to seal the box and the drywall together. Caulk will work too, in some circumstances.
Would also be wise in a laundry room since the humidity level will be higher, and if this is an exterior wall with insulation.
Thanks all,
RW I have seen the patch you are describing. Judging by a standard size plate all of the damaged spots are about a 1/4 inch bigger than the plate. That is why I mentioned the oversize plates. I know they are not the preferred solution they are pretty much a giveaway to a sloppy job.
I also might try some of the drywall screen made for repairs on the worst one. I think part of it was I was more worried about messing up the box or wiring which didn't happen. I have seen it done many times and knew the basic steps but it is kind of intimidating working blind. Some boxes turned out just the way they should.
I also found that it was easier with out the base on the cutout tool. Because if I set the bit at the right depth for the point at which the drywall touched the box it was too shallow and wouldn't cut when I got to the part of the box where the drywall flared away. I pushed the drywall up tight but I also didn't want to break it.
Webby
If the gaps are only a 1/4" or so past the edge of a normal size outlet cover, just "hot-mud" yhe gaps with the 30 or 45 minute setting compounds another poster mentioned. Just remember one thing (and this may be in Jeff Buck's bag o' tricks LOL) if the outlet is gonna be covered by a washer or dryer...it's no big deal--just caulk the gap once the switch plate's on.
In any case...the roto-zip WILL get away from you at some point!Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
Been there, done that, etc....
What RW has described is a.k.a. "california patch" - good for bigger areas. My solution to the 1/4" gaps is to just mud beside them and place paper tape up to the edge of the boxes. Do the usual 3 coats with progressively larger knives (ie 4",6", and 8") and voila.
ciao for niao
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Hi, thanks guys for all the good info.
Today I hung another one and a half walls of drywall. Ninety percent of the room is drywalled. Today one of the walls was the wall behind the washer and dryer which meant cutting out three more electrical boxes and the oatey brand washer and dryer box. Didn't have any damage and no problems.
If I had some more boxes in the room to do I think I could get really good at it but for now all of the cutout tool work is done.
Webby