Here’s a sketchup detail I did of the belly band, upper and lower siding as it’s loosely drawn on my plans.
How can I get a flashing in the circled area somehow, or change the detail for better flashing?
I’d like to see the cap or the BB flashed somehow and the siding/battens above held off a 1/4 for water that collects to dry out/off.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Replies
I can't open your attachment - can you use a different file type? - I've done quite a bit of B&B and might have a suggestion -
Here's the pic in a new format.'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb
View Image
I'd do it something like this.
Hey thanks,
That's kind of where I was at too--I can get 'ledger flash' off the shelf which has that higher back to it.
Your two flashings as drawn have only a slight angle for the drip. Are you assuming bending these on site?
I have a used brake now that I've bent a few pan flashings with. I still haven't figured out what and where to get the best material for this type of application.
Thank you,
Pat
At the yard and maybe I saw them at the BBs they have a small drip cap (maybe the ledger flash you mention?) that is similar to the Z-flash in the pics that I sometimes use with the added flat flashing on top of it laid on with a bead of tar (from a tube) between the 2. I do have access to a sheetmetal shop where I bend up my own when I need to (worked aircraft sheet metal in a previous life). I do use the added flat flash above the Z even when I bend my own. I usually bend a stack to build an inventory so I don't heaed to go to the SM shop everytime I need some Z-flashing. The drip anlge is a necessity thoug and is possible to bend/bang to shape on site without a break (depending on your flashing). If you're going to mill your own beveled cap I'd run a dip edge groove on the bottom of it as well.
I'm just now starting a search for lead flashing. I think I read a post from SeeYou a while back that he had a source but haven't pursued it yet but so far I've been using the rolls I can get from my yard.
I'd be worried about the T-11 to bevel cap rather than underneath the bevel cap - the bevel cap I'd run a kerf underneath about 1/4" deep and 1/4" back from the front edge - that'll keep water from getting in back of the belly band - and I'd dado the belly band and tuck the hardie plank up into the dado - now, the top of the bevel cap...I might bevel all the way back to the sheathing, then L flash from the sheathing out about an inch on the bevel cap (flashing bent to lay tight to bevel cap) then hold the T-11 and the battens up off the bevel cap - I'd pay close attention to sealing the bottom edge of the T=11 and bottom cut of the battens -"there's enough for everyone"
Waters,
Everybody has their own ways of getting the same job done.
I'd start with a 2 x 10, rip 2 1/2" off one edge at a 15 degree angle and use that rip for the top cap with its square edge against the wall. That way, its bottom surface is also sloped down and out. Caulk before assembly. Flash that top surface and keep everything up off the flashing 1/4".
Mill a 5/8" wide by 3/4" high rebate on the inside of the bottom edge of the remainder of the 2 x 10 for the top of the Hardie to slip up into.
Ron