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Very interesting post, Harv. Here are my suggestions:
First, learn how to spell. You never know how handy that will come in during the building process. I must admit that your spelling is marginally better than the inspectors from building and saftey. Also, some grammar would be nice.
Second, by all means you should forge ahead with the plan, pouring concrete, finish carpentry, and electrical wiring. I don’t think you will need much assistance, but if you do, some Time Life books would come in really handy. Ones with lotsa really cool pictures.
Third, ask a lot of questions to the building inspector during plan check and final inspection for the forms, framing, and electrical. You know, stuff like what the spacing should be on studs, or what the little green wire does in romex. Fax him with questions from the Time Life books at least once or twice a week. They love that stuff, and it will keep him off our back.
Fourth, watch Bob Villa. A lot. Get some old video tapes of reruns, and practice wearing a nail bag hung really low, so it looks really cool. Remember, its always better and easier to look good rather than be good.
Finally, assuming this post is really not a joke, donate the $110,000 to charity, at least someone could get some use out of the money.
Seriously Harv, this is not an appropriate forum for how to build a house in 25 words or less. I would hire a contractor. I don’t do everything, and I daresay that the vast majority of the folks on this forum wouldn’t build their own house, haven’t built thereown house, and subcontract significant portions of the project. As Dirty Harry once said, “A man’s got to know his limitations”
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Very interesting post, Harv. Here are my suggestions:
First, learn how to spell. You never know how handy that will come in during the building process. I must admit that your spelling is marginally better than the inspectors from building and saftey. Also, some grammar would be nice.
Second, by all means you should forge ahead with the plan, pouring concrete, finish carpentry, and electrical wiring. I don't think you will need much assistance, but if you do, some Time Life books would come in really handy. Ones with lotsa really cool pictures.
Third, ask a lot of questions to the building inspector during plan check and final inspection for the forms, framing, and electrical. You know, stuff like what the spacing should be on studs, or what the little green wire does in romex. Fax him with questions from the Time Life books at least once or twice a week. They love that stuff, and it will keep him off our back.
Fourth, watch Bob Villa. A lot. Get some old video tapes of reruns, and practice wearing a nail bag hung really low, so it looks really cool. Remember, its always better and easier to look good rather than be good.
Finally, assuming this post is really not a joke, donate the $110,000 to charity, at least someone could get some use out of the money.
Seriously Harv, this is not an appropriate forum for how to build a house in 25 words or less. I would hire a contractor. I don't do everything, and I daresay that the vast majority of the folks on this forum wouldn't build their own house, haven't built thereown house, and subcontract significant portions of the project. As Dirty Harry once said, "A man's got to know his limitations"
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You relly had me going John,for a while there I thought you were serious!!!!!Really Harvs,If you have no experience you are looking for big troubles on this project.Looney Ricks Kiss Architects????Sounds like the name of a rock band.
*John, thanks for the laugh. Even though the world won't appreciate another smart a**, we know where you're coming from.
*John, you said what I'm too nice to say.Harv, taking you to be a real person (generously) bent on destroying his life, this forum is not the place to start from scratch, and neither is your new house. You will be very, very unhappy, unless you lower your sights.And everyone, it's Bob VILA. Vee-ya. Not villa, that's a summer home in Italy. If you don't believe me, visit:Bob Vila's Personal Site! He even has his own domain!Don't think he doesn't p*ss me off as much as the rest of you -- and I probably don't catch half his mistakes. But does he really DO anything -- I just remember him wandering around bothering the real tradespeople with stupid scripted questions. (Duh, so you hit the nail with this part of the hammer? Wouldn't you rather use a Craftsman® cardboard hammer?)
*I was ripped on my spelling and the way my thoughts flowed out. Well you are right. If I would have been responsible in school I might have learned this years ago. I am trying to learn these basics. To communicate is very important. I know that all you get to see is the words that I type so I understand where you are coming from. The truth is in about 4 to 5 years I am going to break ground and start to build my house with the help of my family. They all have some skills in different areas. I just want to learn as much as possible in these years so I can contribute in the building of my own home. I want to know about concrete homes and any energy saving ideals. I know also that no matter what I read in a book or from here or anywhere it will only be theory. I am searching for a place to get that hands on. I found where a Habitat for Humanity is building I was hoping I could donate my week ends just so I could learn. If any one know if there is a good school that combines both theory and Hands on around South Jersey or City of Phila. I would like to hear about it. I am serious about my intentions. If you want to help with ideals that would be great. Thanks again The Harvs
*To the Harvanators, I suggest, if you haven't already done so, read the post "DIY? Yes, No, or Maybe" in this forum. While there is a fair amount of heat and noise contained there-in, there is also some good advice. Building a house is not rocket science, but the amount of knowledge required is considerable. Your stated level of knowledge of home building would cause most readers of this forum to advise you against your intended plan. However, I can't condone the act of heaping scorn on someone who seeks to enlarge their body of knowledge. A successful do-it-yourselfer is one that knows what he or she doesn't know. The fact that you are asking the question suggests that you realize that your house building knowledge is inadequate. There are countless books out there including several from the host of this forum. Buy 'em and read 'em. Volunteer for Habitat for Humantiy. You will have the chance to at least see the structural elements that go into a house, plus you will see at least one method on how it is assembled. It may not be the best, but with luck you might see how it could be done better. Learn how to read blue prints, and learn the lingo. Even if you choose not to build it yourself, the information will help in your discussions with a potential builder. Subscribe to magazines like Fine HomeBuild and Journal of Light Construction. JLC is currently providing back issue articles on CD ROM. Both Fine HomeBuilding and JLC have had excellent articles on framing, foundations, and ICFs to name a few.You asked about insulated concrete forms. First concrete has a very poor R factor, so it does little to add to the isulation factor of the wall. It does add thermal mass and the forms provide excellent insulation. Be advised that there is some controversy with ICFs and termite infestations is some areas. ICFs may look easy, especially in the demo video, but they are filled with pitfalls. Bracing and how the concrete is delivered into the forms are the biggest determining factors for success. If you have never built forms for a structure taller than a 4 inch slab, I do not recommend that you take on a ICF wall project. Even a modest house will have 20+ yards of concrete in its basement walls. Having a blow out will really ruin your day. I escaped with only emotional scars and a healthy respect for concrete from my ICF encounter. Good luck in your quest for your dream home.
*Harv:Yeah, sorry you got ripped, but your post was histarical (sp?). Seriously, if you have no building experience, you have no business building anythng. Your post is like me trying to learn open hear surgery from a book, and then operate on myself. Assuming you are serious, do the following:1. Sign up for courses at a trade college;2. Work for a contractor full time for 1-3 years;3. Get to know some compentent sub contractors in trades you can not do;4. Concentrate or specialize in a few trades (carpentry, plumbing or electrical are good choices).Try out some home repairs first. I started out as a carpenter's assistant, basically lugging wood piles around, and occaisionally sawing 2x4's. I graduated as an apprentice in the 60's, and a journeyman in the 70's, building bridges, highways, and tract homes. There isn't much in the construction business I haven't done, and love the challenge of figuring out layouts, and fixing all the eventual mistakes.It is a great career, but you will not learn it here. Good Luck!
*John,Go open up a piece of romex, say 12-2....any green wire in there?Spell safety...now go to your word processor and write it ten times....And John, we're giving Bob too much air time at FHB...May his name quietly fade from posts as Sean does his archiving thing.Harvanators,Their is a huge thread started on your "I can do it" theme. Check it out. Having a super day, ready for some broiling......anybody...... your post or mine,.....Jack : )
*Harvanators,Gordan's advice is "print out and put in as page one of your new "How To Build A Home" notebook that I hope you have started" fodder. And seriously, post the results of your building adventure bi-decadly.Great post Gordan,Jack : )
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Harv,
Getting involved in building your own house should be considered a luxury expense. All costs considered, the most financially prudent path is hiring a contractor to build your house. However, the sense of accomplishment and memories of creating shelter for my family with my own two hands for me has been a better investment of money and time than: my color television and vcr, leather seats for the SUV, 6 days/7 nights in Aruba. Also, I have found more people who are impressed that I can hang, tape and texture sheetrock than are impressed that I can solve differential equations describing linear circuits.
So, if you are willing to spend the money for some fufillment I might suggest the following alternatives:
1. Become a book smart DIY and educated consumer. Taunton sells great books, videos and magazines to learn theory. This will be useful whether you ever build anything yourself or if you just want to be a more knowledgeable consumer. Also, inspect the houses under construction in your neighborhood. Some guys are happy to chat during their breaks or at the end of the day. It can't hurt to have a cold drink to compensate for the education. Augment the theoretical with some hands on at Habitat-for-humanity. It is a good learning experience as well as a warm fuzzy feeling.
2. Build a small cabana on a corner of the lot. This will give you a small project to cut your teeth on. Hire a 1-man jack-of-all-trades contractor who would enjoy and be willing to let you work with him. Even if they guy isn't the best and brightest you will still learn faster than on your own. Also, the worst case outcome is that you have a nice playhouse for you kids without too much out-of-pocket.
*Harv,A ground-up project is not the place to start. You could do what my parents did - hire a sympathetic contractor who will allow you to do some of the finish work yourself. Back in the 1950's, my dad had an old school buddy in the contracting business. He did the heavy, dangerous stuff -- pouring concrete, major framing, roofing (you REALLY don't want to live under your first roof!). My father is a competent electrician, so he did the wiring. My mom did the sheet metal work and the plumbing, and both of them did the interior finish work - that's not structural, so even if you mess it up your house won't fall down. House is still in excellent condition (they just sold it in 1994) and their panelling work is still there.I agree 100% with the idea of building a cabana first. My husband and I began our DIY career with a tool shed in the back yard. We learned a lot, and we're SO glad we didn't start with a house!
*Harv,GOOD FOR YOU! It is always a step forward to see someone who wants to understand and contribute to their home-building! It is far better than those madding crowds who just buy the biggest, most pretentious thing they can find. If nothing else, you will come out of this experience understanding and hopefully appreciating one of the largest investments of your life. Please ignore the first posts to your question. While your original post lacked somewhat, it was churlish to ridicule a newcomer. I guess they forgot they were once beginners too. However, everyone is right in saying that you are not currently competent to tackle this. You have already had some of the best advice: read, read, talk, ask questions, ask some more, look up the archives here and at JLC and read all the back issues. yada yada yada. By all means work with habitat, and other charities. Research local contractors, you have lots of time to pick out three or four and follow their projects. You ARE going to need at least subcontractors as I don't see you doing the back-to-the-land thing in the wilds of Canada. You asked for schools. There are a number of schools set up to teach non-designer/builders how to design and contract/build a home. Some are good, some not so. Here is a website that lists many of these schools to get you started on the search: http://www.greenbuilder.com/general/env.dir.htmlBuilding is not as difficult as surgery, and humans have been doing it for a very long time, but to build a safe, comfortable, and lasting home does approach rocket science in complexity and balance of (often) conflicting criteria.Go for it and keep us posted as to what you find and don't find. You won't be the last who wants to know. Contrarily, Lisa
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Jack, thanks for the compliment.
To the Harvanators, everyone has to start somewhere, so the point is not to discourage you but to give you an idea of what is involved. I grew up on a farm, and we were always fixing and building things. My first project, where I was in charge, was a dog house, followed by finishing a basement, then building equipment sheds, a garden shed, a horse barn, and finally a house. Believe me, a house is a 10 fold increase in work and complexity over a 30x30 equipment shed. Build a garden shed or deck to get the feel for the elements that go into a project. The act of designing (okay, just find a set of plans), ordering materials, site preparation, framing and finishing will introduce you to many of the aspects of building a house. While a garden shed is a far cry from a house, at least you will have an idea of what is involved. Keep reading and good luck.
*Harv, if your really serious about learning how to build, try practising on the house you are living in now. First, do you have a basement, or a second story? Is so, rip out the stairs and then burn all the parts (outside, of course!)After your done destroying them, build a set of sawhorses, and start rebuilding them (the stairs).If you get the stairs done in 4 years or less, you will be ready to build a house!And in the meantime, you and your wife will be well practised in ladder climbing, an essential skill in housebuilding!When you get the stairs re-built, tear down your garage and burn...Blue, acting silly in MIPS My wife and I have this dream about learning how to build locomotives on the weekends...
*I don't believe it: Looney Ricks Kiss Architects exist!http://homeplans.lrk.com/index2.htmlRich Beckman
*Dear Harvantors,I support your efforts.I also know that necessity is the mother of invention.You have time to achieve your goal. And if you truly seek this goal, you will achieve it. This will require work. It would be my desire, here, to assist you with a little push in the right direction.Determine where your skills lie. Are you a good carpenter, electrician, plumber, etc? Or will you be the architect? In what area shall you apply your desire to learn, so as to be most effective in a timely and efficient completion of your house. Answer that first.Next, learn to be an architect. Not a builder of tall buildings, just the architect you need for this job. Hire a real one to redraw final plans for approval with the authorities. But as an architect of your own house, you will know how to make models of your home.From that, you will know how to build your house.And then, you will know that the rest of the work is just incidental to what you are going to get done.I am on your side in this endeavor.Hope this helps.
*Churlish!! Out comes the Webster's and I fully agree. I would also suggest that Harv look into his local junior college or tech school for night cources. Our's here in California, Silicon Valley, has an excellent program(San Jose' City College)that covers site work, form work, steel, foundations, structure, roofing, electrical(enough to keep you out of trouble or know when to seek someone more qualified), plumbing(waste,vent,and potable water), and for those with a little math background, an elementary surveying class with once a week field work. Take all these and work in or the trade 2-4 years(part time 10 years) and your set to Hire it Out to Subs.
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Dear Harvs,
First off, I apologize if this posted twice. I tried to delete one.
My experience isn't as in-depth nor as extensive as the regulars on this forum, but I used to own a steel erection business (commercial and bridge only, no residential) with considerable experience in steel and concrete. I've built one home and extensively remodeled six others including major additions. I've been around construction all my life. I can tie steel, pour concrete, plumb, wire and finish sheetrock--not fast enough to make a living, but good enough to please myself. I believe I have a fairly good ability to foresee and work through potential problems. But, I couldn't cut a straight line in wood if my life depended on it! My academic background is journalism/English and I'm sorry you were publicly bashed here.
Currently I'm building an ICF home with a structural steel/concrete floor and structural steel with standing seam metal roof. This is an extremely complex home with 24' walls above ground on three sides and a total of 39 corners and angles.
This house has been a major challenge. Starting the blocks off right and keeping them square while placing and while pouring is absolutely critical. The steel placement is not that difficult once you understand the concept. Bracing, bracing, bracing and more bracing is the second most important area of the construction.
I strongly suggest you form and pour a small project such as a retaining wall first. Absolutely use a pumper truck. A professional ICF builder can get away with pouring from the back of the truck (if it will reach) or from a conveyor. But for a do-it-yourselfer, a pumper will make all the difference in the world in helping to prevent blow-outs.
I also suggest you have solid, dependable help. I like the idea of the all-round good handy man who is interested in seeing this house through from start to finish. I suggest you not count on your family. I've found my friend's and family's enthusiasm great at the beginning in the planning stages. But week after week of hands on work-missing out on bar-b-ques and other functions, gets old. A commitment to a house such as this is major for a friend or family member to see through.
Unless you don't plan to pour a basement under the ICF and unless you're planning a simple roof, I question whether or not a 2500 ICF home can be built for $110,000. I'm from the Midwest where labor and materials should be less than you area. For instance I pay $54 per yard of 3500 psi concrete. I suspect the same mixture in your area is $65+. ICF generally costs 5-10% more than stick framing.
The Portland Cement Corporation at http://www.concretehomes.com has some excellent literature and hands-on advice for ICF homes. They will send you a packet of info with a brochure advertising many brochures and booklets. You can pick out ones you're interested in and order them either from PCC or from Barnes and Noble. PCC charges shipping and handling, Barnes and Noble does not.
Good luck. Prepare yourself totally before you start. If you have specific questions, I'll be happy to share my experiences--both good and bad.
Linda
P. S. I wouldn't go back to a stick built home for anything. I love the stability of this structure. I'm also using GSH and hydronics. You might check with your local utility as see what type of assistance they may offer. Again, good luck.
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b Blue!
its hard to type as I'm still laughing my a** off!
Though you jest, the stair idea is really a good one.
And I would say log the time spent doing the stair project including all time spent studying and going to school, posting for help on the internet and figure
b one thousand times the hours?
All things are possible,
Jack : )
*LP,I'd like to know how you are using GSH and hydronics?Interested always in alternaatives,Jack : )
*I hope you're not suggesting it won't payback. If you are, could you prove it?
*Harvenators:I'm in the cheering section. If you make the effort to learn and aren't afraid to admit what you don't know so you can learn that too there is no reason you can't build your own home. Lots of people I know have done it, and done it well. For some it has been a long term struggle and for some it was an awakening of talents they didn't know they had. For a VERY FEW it was an insurmountable task and they had to swallow their pride and call in someone to finish the job.But, if you start small with an outbuilding of some type, read a lot of books, ask a lot of questions and learn to filter out the personal biases from what is necessary so you can develop your own biases you will be successful.One sure thing, it will be a memorable event in your life. Many I know liked it so much they have done it more than once.Peace
*An impressive background and experience...but your statement about stability of structure tells me your not in earthquake country. Give me that stick built swaying-with-the-ground feeling anytime over the silent praying inside ICF homes.
*
Hi Steve,
You're right. We're in tornado country. Houses here don't quite sway--they're just zapped to the Land of Oz.
See ya.
Linda
*Steve, glad you brought up the point!My brother is considering building an ICF home here in SOuthcentral AK, and we ARE a zone 4 seismic! I studied extensively prior to building a solidly poured foundation with stick framed 2x6 exteriors and a --- lot of metal, as well as designing the roof for the 100mph winds we get off the glaciers and the nearby ocean. Any thing extra you can add to my ammo to persuade my brother from sinking his $$ into a lot of foam and concrete? -Eric
*Harvs- I too am inthe support section. And I have the added benefit of having just succesfully completed my first home on my home. Do not let your detractors get you down... and there will be many, from every quarter, even your closest friends and family. I used this to strengthen my determination. Granted, I come from a long family history of builders, but, my Father and Grandfather taught me not to judge a man by any merits but his own. I had to develope and learn the trades just like the rest of them. The only advantage was having their resources easily at hand. I had some experience in general carpentry, but no real masonry or heavy equipment experience. Through a lot of patience and help from true friends and benefactors and a LOT of studying (there is a huge resource for any reader at the local library) I was able to witch my well (surprised the driller when we hit water at my expected depth. I've got the best pressure in the neighborhood!), build my own drive, set my own septic (with the extremely helpful guidance of the local D.E.C. - they even assisted in the engineering!), did all the excavation (saved $10k alone on a 1 acre parcel). When it came to laying the block foundation, blood, sweat and a lot of cursing the weather came into play. Even though I probably hold the longest record for laying a 1400s.f. foundation (7 courses high with 2 rows of bond beam and enough rebar to keep the Titanic where she lays), I still managed as good a job, and sometimes better, than the pros laying a multi unit housing complex on one of my dad's jobs. I even stayed on schedule with many of the local builders, even though I was a crew of 1 to 2 at any given time, and also had to do all my running, bidding and other G.C. errands. It IS a lot of HARD work. But to me, a 30 year mortgage and someone elses SHODDY craftsmanship is a much harder lump to swallow. since I was planning to live in the structure, I went to extra strains to ensure it's durability, and we have some of the harshest conditions to be found in the U.S.Even if you decide not to tackle the whole project yourself, take on whatever you feel you can handle. You will surprise yourselves with what you CAN do, and you will enjoy extra satisfaction in having contributed. The main thing is to not rush into anything, or brush over anything, because the final picture rests on the underlying structure. Another "fact" given in many articles and books that I've found to hold some truth: You will save even if you only act as the General Contractor. Most surveys report that the g.c. gets approx. 25% off the top (this always depends on his business sense), while labor runs around 25 - 35% (depending on locale),and materials are often between 40 and 50% of the total costs. You should be able to shave a substantial portion off the overall cost, however, there are always certain constants. Another example: I found while bidding my lumber, roofing, insulation, and concrete packages that, even though we are limited by our small # of suppliers in Alaska, the various companies ranged greatly in price variance on the same or very similar products. I was also able to further reduce the overall package by "cherry-picking". While this is often frowned on by the suppliers (where they go cheap in one area, they get you for 2x in another), I found by making good friends out of the sales departments that it was no problem to simply come in and pick up certain items off a bid. Only one store refused me this opportunity, and when I visited their sister store in the next town, I was allowed to pick and choose all I wanted. Those who allowed it know the value of building a repoire with the customer. One final note that is fairly general in most construction: design or build in units of 4 (4", 4': a house 28'x36' is just as cheap to build as a home 27'x 35'.) The reason this is, as you will find out, is that most materials are made and sold in dimensions of 4: 4x8 plywood for example. By reducing the amount of waste materials, you can have the dream home you want, at a better price. If you hire subs: remember, the only one who worries about waste is the one who is supplying the goods. We've seen a lot of extremely wasteful carpentry in our experience throughout the northwest, and this only adds to the problems we see with enviromentalists.My grandfather taught me long ago to be a "wood mizer" even though it is renewable, you have to be a good steward. I wish you the best of luck. Make time for family, as it can tax relationships. (Fortunately for me, my wife is more frugal than I am, so she stood by me all the way.) A little extra encouragement: we now have the nicest home in the subdivision, with no mortgage (at age 29 and 31), and we accomplished the task for a cost of $35 s.f. - including an acre of land. By building a 2-story, you will see costs drop in the shared footprint and roofing areas. We did it, even though all but a very few supported us. You can too.Please exercise extreme safety and caution (and carry the proper insurance) and you will enjoy the fruits of your labor for many happy years. The biggest sacrifice I had to make was giving up a summers worth of salmon and rainbow fishing, but now I can afford to take guided fly-in trips!Have fun- Eric in Alaska
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Eric, It's hard to convince someone to build something different then what they have made up their mind to build. I've been in concrete buildings twice during an earthquack, and the both instances left me with wet underware and a profound conviction that stick built homes(structures)have some advantages over concrete structures in earthquack areas. If your brother could experience sitting in a lunch room, built entirely of concrete columns and stressed concrete roof, during such an event and witness the vertical supports actually tilt five to six degrees off vertical, in both directions, within a 10 second time span...then he might be persuaded to seriously reconsider. During Loma Prieta 89, I was in an industrial 3 story building and witnessed a steel reinforced shear wall; 10 inches thick, 15 feet high, and 40 feet long; crack throughout its length. Several baseball size concrete pieces spalled off during the event and I was VERY thankful that the building remained upright. The wall did the job that it was engineered to do, but if those cracked walls were in my own home, I would have some serious doubts about staying in the home for any lenth of time afterward. Now, I know these concrete structures didn't fail under these "worst case" scenarios but several other, very strongly built and reinforced, concrete structures did fail. Hundreds of cars on a local freeway, with their drivers still inside, were turned into 10 inch high pancakes. My own wood frame home, in the same area, was esentially untouched. I couldn't find anything in the way of structural damage outside of two or three hairline crackes in the drywall. All the doors close as well as they always have.
This is not to say that stick built structures can't collapse, I'm just saying that if they do fail, chances of surviving are much greater then if several tons of concrete come down around your ears.
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Steve-
Thanks for the affirmation. Have you read a book titled "Building in Earthquake country" (or Designing/engineering?)... I can't remember the exact title, but the fellow was a structural engineer from CA who laid out extensive info about the process as well as the geological concerns in CA, WA and AK. He also talks about the rest of the country, but deals mainly with yours and mine, yopu know, the area where terra firma is pronounced "terror firmer"?
He also supported using basements or crawl spaces of poured concrete (plenty of rebar and j bolts), and attaching stick frame to the foundation. He also details the necessity for plywood shear, a minimum being in the corners. This is due to the both lateral and coinciding horizontal movement of the earth. The well braced stick frame contains enough elasticity in it to "ride" out the shock, while the shear plywood (OSB?) and metal bracing holds the structure soundly together. I've lived my entire life in the Northwest, and the last 15 years in Alaska. Having been in both concrete and wood structures in this situation, I entirely agree with you. For fire resistance, we've gone to arch. asphalt shingles, and JH hardie cement siding. For sound (and warmth!!), we've used a minimum of R-21 in a min. of 2x6 ext. walls. I'm just not sold on a rigid structure (in our area) that has little tensile strength compared to stick. I can appreciate its extra R-value, but if you read Larry Yost's book on super insulating for the coldest climates, there isn't really that much of a gain. I think it's a lot to due with the affair of "new" rather than proven ideas?
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Ditto to your advice to Harv and his 110,000 dollar 2000 sq.ft. plus house.
Gabe Martel at [email protected]
*Well, Harv, I don't want to get into that old discussion about whether you'd be out of your mind to perform open heart surgery on yourself... oops, I mean build your own house. But I heartily recommend you start off where I began my building career 20 years ago, at Shelter Institute in Bath, Maine. I was back there for a visit last summer, Patsy Henning and the kids (BIG kids now) are still there, and it's a wonderful place to learn everything that's possible to fit into 3 weeks. Go to http://www.eren.doe.gov/consumerinfo/refbriefs/t311.html for a listing of owner-builder schools, and good luck!!
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Well Harv's I do not know if you are still reading this and I may be repeating things already mentioned but here is my advice......if you have the time and money go for it. But find yourself a good builder for advice.....good helpful guys are out there.... do lots of research and use this chat room a lot. When you question floor spans, siding or windows....look here read what others have seen, heard or done. Also find an understanding designer with a good reputation who can be flexible with change and is current with real costs and materials. Also be ready for delays and critics. Inspectors will also be really looking and not as flexible but do not make them made....even ask for advice. Good luck Spelling is not my thing..building is .
*Great recommendation! I took the Shelter Institute Class last year, and am just putting the finishing touches on my house this spring. It is a great experience, and well worth the time. You will really get off on the right foot with the Henins.
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My wife and I are going to build our own home.
I have no back round in carpentry. I have the willingness to learn. What ideals could you give me to get some hands on learning. I am thinking of attending a nite school Orleans Tec. This class will start next year. Where could I get some hands on expierence with just the nite time and Sats. aviable.
As well as this any thing you might know that could get me started right. We have or dream plan picked out it's 2550 sqr footer. With a second floor. I want to build with concreat to raise my R rateing. I read about (ICF) insulated concreat forms. I was impressed with it. What are your thoughts on (ICF's)? My hope is to also use Geo Thermal heating and cooling it sounds great but I heard it does not work right all the time. My main goal is to pay now and save later on my bills. I will spend 110,000. I am about to contact this Looney Ricks Kiss Architects, Inc. Their plan was in a book my wife and I looked through. The design was what we wanted with some changes to their plan. What do you think is a fair price for plans. I know of the hardships that are already involed. I don't need any others added. I hope some of you have ideals that can lead me on the right coarse.
Thanks Form the Harvs