Does any body have any good tips for moving storage sheds?
I’m getting ready to do a Garage and I have to move a 10’x 14 wood shed, it is above ground with 2x8s on 2’centers no 4×4 skids like some are built with. I was planning on using 4 rubber tired dollies, one at each corner to roll it around. Any other thoughts ? would be helpfull.
Clay
Making mitered head casings is a breeze with this simple system.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
How far and over what terrain?
I moved one (skidded it) about that size a few years ago (already had been built on skids) with just a small tractor and chain. If you're going to jack it up for dollies anyway, why not just put some skids on and drag it..depending on the terrain to be covered of course.
Are you moving it off the property. I had to move a shed for some one ( 8 x 16 ) Call in flat bed and winched it up. Worked pretty good. If not jack it up and move it on round poles of fence posts.
Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing! Holmes Sr. Oliver Wendell
You could screw some 14 ft skids on the bottom, then build a 'track' for them to slide on using 4 more 14 ft boards. Move it 14 ft at a time, then move the trailing 'track' boards to the front, repeat.
Good technique for soft or uneven ground.
If you weld, you could fabricate 2 pipe axles, and mount 4 wheels.
However you move it, it might pay to add a little cross-bracing before you start. Floors in particular are usually not constructed to prevent racking, so something like a 2x4 nailed to the floor diagonally from one corner to the other might be advised. Plus, give it a good shake from all angles and brace any direction that seems to have too much give.
I have a stick framed tool shed that's 10 x 12 or so, estimated at a couple of tons. I moved it by having a guy with a medium sized crane come over, pick it up, and swing it to the new location about 60 feet away. Took under two hours start to finish and cost $250. We trenched along the ends so that we could get his rigging underneath the ends of the joists, and up it went. I thought about dragging it, but it's old, I couldn't really see a tow point that wouldn't risk damaging it, I don't have a tractor, and the septic tank is buried in the path of travel (this just in: local man drops tool shed into septic tank). So I opted for the somewhat expensive method that I knew would work, take little time, and use no material.
A lot of suppliers have flat-bed rigs with a fork lift that mounts to the back, lowers itself down for unloading on job sites. Here truss guys - lumber yards - underground utility suppliers etc. use them. It's likely they would stop by and move it for you with the forklift for a reasonable sum (150?)
remodeler
We moved our little job shack last year. Tried a forklift. But we couldn't find one w/8 foot forks and the smaller forks didn't work. We could get under it but not quite enough leverage. So we called our tow truck company. He winched it up and moved it over to the other end of the yard. Pretty slick.
Saw this done more than once on jobs. One they just backed up a pickup and off they went. The other time the job site was mostly clay and there was worries about the skids sticking. A set of handy 4by4 and concrete blocks were employed as a lever to hoist the skids free and again to get the tip out of the mud. Granny low had them, in both cases, bumping along quite merrily.
I guess it may matter how the sheds are constructed. Most with skids I suspect are fastened to the skids firmly and both had plywood for rack strength. Not sure how this relates to a skidless shed or one with less resistance to racking.
Someone here on Breaktime once said "When you're a hammer, all your problems look like nails". Don't recall whom exactly said that, but I picked it up here and use the line often.
Being an old farm boy, there are very few problems that can not be solved with the suitable application of a tractor. (-: That would be the first solution I would look towards.
I moved an 8X12 playhouse last year with my small MF tractor and a trailer. I pried up the edge of the shed with a lever and slid blocks under the edge. Then put some planks under the edge of the building and put the other end up on the trailer.
I looped 4 (I think) chains around the building to pull it up on the trailer. When I looped them around I used some big spikes on the corners to keep the chain from slipping under the building when I pulled. Worked like a charm. Looked pretty funny trucking down the road, though. (-:
I've also moved similar buildings with a rough terrain forklift. Just pick the sucker up and put it anywhere.
If you don't want machinery in your yard and don't have far to move it, you can "roll" it. Get it up on some blocks and put some 4" PVC underneath it. Then you can either push it by hand or pull it with a come-along.
If you give us some more specifics about what exactly you ahve to work with, you might get some more specific recommendations.
25% of American men kiss their wives goodbye when leaving the house.
99% of them kiss their houses goodbye when leaving the wife.
Yep....good advice there Boss. I moved my Dad's 8x12 shed last summer. Jacked up one end and slid 4" sch 40 PVC under it, did the same to the other end. Comealongs, chains, and more pipe and made it about 120' in about 2 hrs by myself.
Last year, The Casey's near my church donated an 8'x16' shed on skids. The street between the two rises 16' in 80'. I pulled it up and into place with my '87 toyota 2x P/U.
Thw floor joists were set on the 4x6 skids and ribbon blocked and joisted. A 3/4" floor was laid and conventional walls added. the 1/2" sheathing ran over the skids. It was 15 yo.
SamT
Hey thanks all, gave me a couple of new Ideas to work with.
I've got to go staight out about 30' and then do a 90 and go back about 50' so draging it on planks only works till I have to make the turn and then go up against the fence. The yard that the fence is up against is not acessable to pull with a vehicle but I could use a tree to pull against to bring it up to the fence. Hmm I do have like 150' of 3/4" aborplex line that I could make the shed/tree/truck pull that might work OK. I also have 4- 2x10x16s to put down for solid path to roll on. Just one of those projects best not to try and hurry.
Clay
If you go for the long tow line, be sure to keep bystanders clear of the area. They can whip around and do surprising amounts of damage if they break.
Given the difficulty of getting vehicle access, maybe the thing to do is invite a bunch of friends to a shed schlepping party....
-- J.S.
Move a 8x12 full of tools approx. 60'. Rolled in on sch 40 pvc on sheets of osb. Was able to push it by hand.