Replies

1. 
   jimblodgett | May 16, 2002 08:10am | #1

   Do you know about routing a groove in the frame and rolling in the screen and rubber splines instead of stappling? You can get them tight as a drum head that way.

1. 
   calvin | May 16, 2002 02:01pm | #3

   This is a spline in groove installation on a fixed frame.  The 12 ft in the air might make it more difficult.  I used a laminate router with guide on the long unobstructed grooves, and a jig on the corners to get the proper registration from the edge.  I found a slightly bigger than 1/8" straight bit in a desk drawer that matched the size needed for the spline (which comes in several sizes).  Lay the oversize screen over the groove, inset the screen by rolling the round end of the spline tool in the groove.  Follow with the spline, did top/bottom/sides one at a time.  Makes for a taught screen and an easy replacement.  But that 12 ft off the ground...........__________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    

    

1. 
   jimblodgett | May 16, 2002 04:45pm | #5

   Calvin, man, you ever use the end of that spline roller that's behind the heel of your hand, instead of up by your thumb? Sure is more comfortable that way. Keeps my wrist straighter and if I have several screens to do I feel a lot better at the end of the day.

1. 
   calvin | May 16, 2002 09:42pm | #6

   Jim, i guess so.  I don't really think about it till i have some to do and if I remember correctly, i probably do it "backwards" for the reason you mention.  I know I oftentimes forego the setting of the screen with the roller because it just flops out any way....moreso with fibreglass screen.  Aluminum seems to stay in once it's creased.

   I was amazed at the number of guages that spline comes in.  Instead of finding a straight bit to fit the spline, I took the smallest straight bit and found a spline that fit it.

   I sure like the way it turned out setting it in a groove v. staples and screen mould.  I know when replacement time comes, I'll like it even more.__________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    

    

2. 
   Jim_Atlanta | May 16, 2002 04:39pm | #4

   Thanks for the reply.

   Yes, I had considered the rubber spline approach, but the difficulty in doing it on the outside of a porch that's 10 ft off the ground, so the top of the screening is 20' up, caused me to drop that idea. Trying to run a router - plunging at that, on a 20ft ladder seemed too risky for me. Also, some of the 2x4s have scalped edges which, just to add a little challenge to the project! Since I'm replacing the batten (lath) strips that covered the screen edging (on 2x4s) originally, I can cover up some ugliness underneath and have some flexibility on "pretty" edges & staple patterns!

   I did see a kit in Home Depot for aluminum strips with the spline channels in them. I didn't think it would look right on this porch and decided to stick with the staple approach.

   I have two screens up now and the second one is fair (also took half the time of first one!), but does have some belly in it. Holding the screening, retrieving the staple gun (electric, fortunately!), getting the first edge attached (first time I dropped the screening!) and staying safe on the ladder is 'interesting'.

   Any comments on using smaller staples (1/4" or 5/16" staples versus 3/8") that would go in easier & seat better on misaligned stapler angles?

   I wondered if a strip of wood with brads points along the edge could serve as a tightening tool without damaging the screening. Haven't pursued that idea further.

   Thanks again to all for the input.

   Jim

3. 
   calvin | May 30, 2009 05:59am | #8

   As a result of Stan's notification of picture space used up I took Gunner's tip and checked my total...........and came across the screen shot from 02.  8 yrs since I installed the screen and I was worried about replacement. 

   None needed yet.  No kids to push it out.  No animals clawing it up.  My lucky days.

    

    

   So many days and a wakeup.  You two excited yet?A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   ChipTam | May 16, 2002 01:23pm | #2

   Jim,

   With smaller window screens the usual proceedure is to bend or bow the frame between two saw horses using C-clamps.  Place two 2x4s across the saw horses and then use another 2x4 under the top and bottom of the frame.  Bend the frame in the middle.  Then, staple the screen to the wooden frame.  When the C-clamps are released the screening is nice and tight.  However, it sounds like you may have an unusual situation.

3. 
   Homewright | May 17, 2002 08:11am | #7

   Jim-  If you're only doing the staple application, where you staple and in what sequence will give you what you're looking for.  Start in the center of one side and staple about 3 or 4 staples over a 2" line.  Next, pull upward on the screen on that same side and staple the upper end with a couple staples.  Repeat this process at the bottom of the same side.  Now staple the entire run on that side.  Now, on the opposite side, pull the screen taut and staple in the center again.  Repeat the steps of pulling upward, stapling then downward and stapling.  With the two sides attached, you can do the same process on the top and bottom.  It helps if you have enough excess screen to pull on with your fingers or some plyers (be careful you don't tear the screen with plyers) then cut off the excess with a knife after it's all stapled up.  Splines are easier but not always appropriate like in your case so this is another way to handle your job.  Good luck.

4. 
   basswood | May 30, 2009 04:40pm | #9

   You might want to check out this product:

   http://www.screentight.com/screenedporch.shtml

   The screen base can be fastened to the porch framing, the bases are grooved to receive splines for nice tight screens and then the low maintenance caps snap on.

   The system can also be used on removable screen frames. Here is a slide show I made on using the system:

   http://s436.photobucket.com/albums/qq88/knottree/Screen%20Tight/?albumview=slideshow

1. 
   DrewatSawhorse | May 31, 2009 12:08am | #10

   I've used the screentight system with great success. Not everyone wants to spend the money on it, but it sure does look good.

1. 
   basswood | Jun 06, 2009 06:07pm | #11

   Here is a pic of the finished project:

   
1. 
   mmoogie | Jun 06, 2009 07:06pm | #12

   Brian, how much does that stuff cost? Did you look into their Fast-track or Mini-track systems as well?Steve

1. 
   Handydan57 | Jun 07, 2009 04:46pm | #13

   To All:I recently rebuilt a small porch 20 x 8. I am looking at different screen systems that my client can install herself. I see Screentight mentioned here but are there others that anyone has tried. Simplicity of installation is important, and the screens will need not be removed when winter arrives. thanks Dan

2. 
   basswood | Jun 07, 2009 05:38pm | #14

   Hi Steve,The Screen Tight adds around $20-75 per screen for material. The base and cap are $3.50/8' for 1-1/2" and $5.50 for 3-1/2" stock. The spline is $15 for 300'.The costs can be offset by easy maintenance later (restretching or rescreening are just a matter of snapping off the cap, fix the problem, and snap the cap back on.

3. 
   mmoogie | Jun 07, 2009 07:04pm | #15

   I'm doing a screen porch right now, and am about to start wrapping the P/T posts with trim stock, then I've got to attach a structure inside the openings to fasen the screening too. I was just going to do 2x2 perimeter and then either a screen-tight type of fastening system or just routed groove with spline and screen mold. But I started looking around at the Screen-Tight site, and see the Fast-Track and Mini-Track systems, which would eliminate having to make the 2x2 perimeter. I'm not sure if the client would like the plastic or aluminum look of any of the systems though. She nixed wrapping things in azek.Steve

4. 
   basswood | Jun 07, 2009 07:33pm | #16

   I did not look into the Fast Track or Mini-track.The basic Screen Tight system can be attached directly over the posts, skipping the inset 2x2, etc. That kind of application can be a cost and labor saver.It is not a look that works in all situations... they do offer a few color choices though.I like using the product to make traditional wood frame screens (as viewed from the inside) with low maintenance exteriors. That is what some customers are after.