I just finished an indoor chimney with real thin bricks on pre-punched 4′ x 4′ metal sheets using construction adhesive. I intend to hire someone to grout the joints professionally, but before I do, I believe I’m supposed to run a bead of caulk or sealant to fill the 3/4″ gap between the brick and the walls / ceiling. After reading “Making Sense of Caulks & Sealants” in the May 2004 issue of FHB, I need help picking the correct product, preferably something that’s easy to use and color to match the surrounding light yellow walls.
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I'm a little confused on what you have done ... I don't understand the pre-punched metal panel part.
And did you do the brick work yourself? Sounds like it. Then why do you think you can't do the grouting?
Will the caulk be hidden by the grout? Will it be exposed to high temperature? If no to both questions, then use a paintable siliconized caulk, and paint to match the walls when it cures.
Or go to a good tile store, not HD or Lowes, and get grout caulk. It comes in about a dozen colors to match most grouts, including a grey that would go well with brick mortar, and it is sanded so it looks somewhat like grout/mortar.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
They're called EZ Wall galvanized panels. You can see them at
http://www.ixlbrick.com/residential/thinbrick/installation.html
They are 4' x 4' pieces of galvanized sheet metal that have half moons punched out and rolled over to form rows of support for the thin brickes. Once the panels are mounted level with plenty of screws to hold them flat, the thin bricks sit on the tabs to form straight rows.
Yes, I did the brick work myself. Pretty easy and labor intensive once the panels are up, although cutting the brick ends took a little practice. I've got the grout mortar mix and an applicator that looks like a cake decorating squeeze bag. A friend of mine whose company does this professionally got me the materials and provided the construction advice. He was the one that said that the grouting was more of an aquired skill and recommended I get one of his guys to do it over a weekend. I really never considered doing it myself.
Two sides of the chimey are exposed, so it butts into two walls. Since they don't normally install thin brick indoors, he didn't know what type of caulk / sealant to use, but did feel that using mortar between the brick and walls would result in failed joints. As such, I planned to buy the correct caulk / sealant to fill the 3/4" gap between the bricks and walls / ceiling / floor, then turn it over to him to grout the brick joints.
I'm certainly open to any recommendations.
Whoops, no to both of your questions. Although it is a sun room, I don't think the temperatures will be extreme. I'd either want it to match the light yellow wall color or match the grey grout.
OSI 100 or Sitka to match the yellow.
Vulcuum 10% to match the grout. 5% will work if you can't find 10%..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!
The best sanded caulk I've come across is the one my tile guru uses, made by TEC:
http://www.tecspecialty.com/product_detail.asp?prodId=202
I've used this stuff in pretty punishing locations (kithcen counter, showers, tubs) and it holds up fine.
They also make excellent grout too, by the way. But note that the caulk dries slightly darker than grout.
To all you experts...since it's an indoor cosmetic application, why can't he just mortar all the joints? What can happen? The mortar will crack at the chimney-wall intersection. So?
J-Katz...using a grout bag is not all that difficult. Mix small batches and take your time. Wipe off any excess mortar as you go. This sounds like a good learing project for you...not much risk of failure or damaging other parts of the house, and the end result will make you proud.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
3/4 in. is a large gap for caulk. You should probably install backer rod or bond breaker in the joint before caulking.
As for a product, how about Sashco's Mor-Flexx (http://www.sashco.com/home_improvement/products/morflexx.shtml)
It is colored and textured and formulated for masonry applications.
Brian P.
Trim strip.. Paint it yellow...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Thanks, all. I thought about making a trim strip, but wasn't sure how it would look. Another issue was that while I cut the end bricks individually to fit, I still managed to end up with more than a 1/4" or so variance. I'd probably have to scribe the strip and it is 50 courses high. Ugh.
It would look better........
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.... WOW!!! What a Ride!