Replies

1. 
   florida | Jul 06, 2019 05:26pm | #1

   If you have furring strips you hang your cabinets on those. Or, pull the drywall and screw 1/2" plywood to the furring strips and hang your cabinets on the plywood which will spread the load. Finish it like drywall.

2. 
   royturning | Jul 06, 2019 08:21pm | #2

   In my case, I used sleeve anchors into the brick, not the mortar joint, to mount French cleats. This requires another (mating) French cleat mounted on the back of the cabinet. I made my cleats about two inches shy of the total inside width of the back of the cabinet so that I could slide the cabinet left or right an inch or two for a more perfect placement. I also mounted a firing strip closer to where the bottom of the cabinet would be hitting the brick wall and put a matching wood strip on the back of the cabinet and once the cabinet was in place I screwed through the inside back of the cabinet into the firing strip. As I recall, I had to use some hydraulic cement around one of the sleeve anchors because the brick was very soft and blew out. Since that time I've done hundreds of Tapcon screws and I'd probably use them on a project like yours now. If the brick is on the soft side I'd elect to not use the hammer option on my hammer drill - just the masonry bit. I also like the hex head Tapcons over their phillip's heads but that means you have to recess where the screw head goes in so that you can drive it with a 5/16th driver drill.

1. 
   sean1114 | Jul 07, 2019 12:34am | #3

   Thank you ever so much RoyTurning. Sounds like pretty solid advice. Incidentally, the wall across the brick wall has stud walls so that should be ok. It's an older house, i guess the brick wall was previously an exterior wall or load bearing wall before a 1980s renovation. I appreciate the advice and it sounds pretty good. What type of wood do you suggest for cleats? Also interested in more folks chiming in. Thanks all

1. 
   royturning | Jul 08, 2019 03:30pm | #5

   As far as what type of wood to use for firing strips goes I'd suggest any wood that seems solid yet not so hard (oak, etc.) that it might be too hard to screw into. My "go-to" wood around here, Ohio, is poplar. It's affordable. solid fir and/or pine is often used.

2. 
   williamramir | Oct 07, 2021 10:00am | #8

   Is it really possible to hang kitchen cabinets on a wall like that? Share your experiences. Were you able to implement your idea?

1. 
   calvin | Oct 07, 2021 11:09am | #9

   It is really possible. If you read the whole thread you should realize it.
   Search French cleats and you should understand even more.

1. 
   williamramir | Oct 08, 2021 12:52am | #12

   I've already read it https://www.pbphomerepair.com/custom-kitchen-cabinets. I'm going to try that in my kitchen. It's a big savings on the wall repair.

3. 
   bing0328 | Jul 07, 2019 07:14pm | #4

   You can use 3/4 shop birch ply. I use it because face is smooth so you can slide cabinet . If the wall clear can be securely fastened then my second suggestion is to bevel top of wall cleat 45 degrees with a matching bevel on cabinet cleat. This locks the cabinets to the wall. The only consideration is the cleat needs to be perfectly straight against the wall. In addition to the screws I would use gorilla glue or epoxy. The most important factor is the condition of the brick and mortar. Is the mortar lime? Is there any spalling? If so you might not want to hang uppers.

4. 
   sean1114 | Jul 10, 2019 11:13pm | #6

   Thanks @ bing0328. I am thinking of furring out the wall with 2x4 on the flat. I was thinking of anchoring the 2x4 into the brick and then attaching the cabinets to the 2x4. I was going to run a top plate and bottom plate secured into the brick and the studs at 16" O.C. And yes i was thinking of using some Hilti epoxy and glue also. I'm happy to over engineer if i have to

5. 
   Dudley | Jul 12, 2019 08:23am | #7

   I use the French Cleats on projects like this all the time

6. 
   obeeswax | Oct 07, 2021 04:52pm | #10

   French cleats will carry an amazing amount of weight. I used them in my shop attached to the back solid wood cabinets and the 2x4 studs with screws on every stud, to store vast majority of power tools, hardware, antique hand tools. I plant to also use them for the kitchen renovation. But instead of the plywood I used in my shop, I may go to maple or another hardwood, just in case it shows, something strong on the Janka scale. If I don’t like where something is, I can simply change the configuration without expense.

   I’m amazed no one mentioned that wall looked like cinder blocks that needed repairs before hanging anything. LOL

7. 
   calvin | Oct 07, 2021 06:23pm | #11

   He mentions brick and it sure looks like brick. Either way, if it can’t handle an anchor……plan B.