Replies

1. 
   calvin | Sep 17, 2013 08:47pm | #1

   go ahead

   and post some more-what's there is just a bit short on information.

   I threw the switch in your profile and you should not have a problem posting.

1. 
   Toddy pond | Sep 17, 2013 09:33pm | #2

   My oringinal post was very detailed butgot marked as spam. My husband and i are building a house in the maine woods. The largest room in house functions as kitchen/dining and living area and has 13 windows. Most of ceiling in that part pf house is structural decking (pine) with fir beams. Windows are jeld- wen, i believe yellow pine. We built to a weather proof shell so windows have been untreated last 4 years. My husband is anxious to treat windows, when we open them in summer (never in rain as untreated) you can't believe the number and variety pf bugs that quickly become dead squished bugs,especially on thecasements.it made sense that polyurethaned windows would be easier to keep looking good than painted windows and my husband did not want dark wood, so...i polyed a couple of windows, only two coats so far and YIKES yellow! Since the ceiling is wood and we are planning fir doors it may not be so bad, but any easy way to remove the poly? And before i do any more windows in the house i'm wondering what color stain folks would  reccomend to cut yellow color but not make it too dark. Can i cut the stain with mineral spirits to keep it light? I understand i'll have to try anything i buy, but didn't want to buy dozens of cans. Oh, and there's one window in are partially finished bathroom that really clashes with cherry cabinet and the granite, has two coats. No dirt, never had stain, think sanding and priming will suffice so i can say goodbye to the yellow?

1. 
   DanH | Sep 18, 2013 08:09am | #3

   There are different types of polyurethane -- some yellow and some don't.  In general, oil-based yellows and water-based doesn't, but there is considerable variation from brand to brand.

   You probably want something that is explicitly labeled "non-yellowing".

1. 
   Toddy pond | Sep 18, 2013 06:30pm | #5

   I used minwax fast drying satin oil based poly. It looked pretty clear. I'm npt sure if its the poly i object to so much as the native color of the wood. The wood didn't look so yellow when it was coated with white dust from the drywall. sapwood thinks paint's lower maintainence anyways, whatever i do, i'll be washing these babies periodically to get rid pf the bugs, thanks

2. 
   sapwood | Sep 18, 2013 01:44pm | #4

   If you really want a clear finish, I would suggest General Finishes Exterior 450. This is best when sprayed, but I believe that it can be applied by brush. (not really sure about that... I spray it) It can be purchased from a variety of places. I got mine from Homestead Finishing, an online merchant run by Jeff Jewitt. He's a very upright individual. This finish won't yellow the wood, nor will it "wet out" the color/appearance. I wouldn't recommend any stain because I think that any softwood with stain looks atrocious. 

   Contrary to what you wrote, any clear finish will not perform as well as a good paint. So if its less maintenance that you want, use paint. 

1. 
   Toddy pond | Sep 18, 2013 06:34pm | #6

   Thanks for the info. Not sure i agree about stain, white pine is used pretty extensively here in new england, i've got plenty of stained furniture my dad made, in various shades of aging, lovely albeit homey. So can i simply sand, prime and paint?

1. 
   sapwood | Sep 19, 2013 11:06am | #7

   I would follow the paint manufacturer's recommended procedure for covering previously finished wood. That will probably involve sanding, priming, and painting. Do yourself a favor and buy quality paint. I like and am used to Benjamin Moore, but there are others to choose from. Ask at your local paint store. 

2. 
   Toddy pond | Sep 19, 2013 07:52pm | #8

   Benjamin moore is my favorite, i can spend many happy hours obsessing about colors with my paint fan, yes i own one. Thanks for the help