Replies

1. 
   JohnD_ | Jul 06, 2001 08:22pm | #1

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   Use thinner wood?

   Glue Oak Veneer to the subfloor?

   Seriously--describe what are you trying to do and maybe some help will arrive.

1. 
   Don_Hamel | Jul 06, 2001 10:40pm | #2

   *Sand the hell out of it?Wood-grain contact paper?

1. 
   David_Thomas | Jul 06, 2001 10:52pm | #3

   *Faux wood pattern painted right onto the subfloor. Martha Stewart must have demonstrated the technique.I think it involved a base coat applied with hand-dried sea sponges (get certified for mixed-gas SCUBA diving to get deep enough to harvest them). Then the growth rings are applied using strands of balleen from bowhead whales. Such balleen is readily available in Barrow, Alaska during their whale hunts in March and September. The hard part is spacing the growth rings accurately. By looking up the dendrochronology data (the science of dating using tree rings), you can simulate whatever time period you want - contemporary, colonial, Maya Indian, medival, etc. -David

1. 
   Wayne_Pasmick | Jul 07, 2001 07:43pm | #4

   *I see the source of this sarcasm. Only the headline was posted. I wish to install a t&g hardwood floor over a 30+ year old slab on grade in my kitchen and dining area. Ajoining family room floor is flush with this slab. I'd like to minimize the transition and thus would prefer not to install a subfloor and regular old 3/4" oak. I am skeptical about installing a floating laminated floor in an area subject to spills (kitchen). Can I install a solid 1/2" glue-together floor direct upon the slab and float it? Or how about a 1/4" subfloor and 3/8" t&g oak? I'd like pro's, con's, or other suggestions. No contact paper please, I'm not sure it would last.

1. 
   Ken_fisher | Jul 07, 2001 09:59pm | #5

   *Wayne:There are solid 1/2" products, both prefinished and site finished that can be glued down over a concrete slab. It may be something to consider, but not a job for someone unfamiliar with doing so.Ooops, I'm missing this as I see you want to achieve a 5/8" meeting. In an event, there are many methods to accomplish this as 1/8" isn't that severe. The proper adhesive will take up 1/32" so then you're only 3/32" from the other areas.They can be "flaoated back" with a quality product such a Mapei. I'm a little lost here. Adjoining family room flush with the slab? Oh...it must be a carpeted area? In that case, just forget about the previous paragraph as it will not be noticeable or needed.I run into alot of tile, stone and marble work that I need to get flush with in installing the many types of hardwood flooring available today. So I'm always looking on how to build up to the other solid surface height areas. For the hardwood guys here, and others that may be interested, I have been searching over the years for a site that deals with exotics and unusuals. I can't believe what I found, finally. It's an enormous site of information that must have taken forever to build. I ain't advertising either...wflooring.com....go to tech information on species. You'll be lost for hours. Yea, I did mention the site before..but what they hey:)

2. 
   Adam_Zaharchuk | Jul 07, 2001 10:20pm | #6

   *Wayne,Try Launstein Hardwoods from Michigan. They make a 3/8" hardwood product, pre-sanded, tounge in groove. I used it up in my cabin in Alpine, AZ. Great stuff. They say that it is possible to directly glue it down to a concrete slab, however, it is not really one of their reccomended methods of installing it. Go to there website, I think it is http://www.launsteinhardwoods.com. You might be able to get away with gluing the 3/8" hardwood down onto a 3/8" or 1/4" layer of plywood. There stuff is top notch.

3. 
   Adam_Zaharchuk | Jul 07, 2001 10:22pm | #7

   *Launstein's web address: http://WWW.LAUNSTEIN.COM

2. 
   Wayne_Pasmick | Jul 07, 2001 10:22pm | #8

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