Replies

1. 
   DanH | Apr 12, 2006 10:35pm | #1

   A WingIt would likely be strong enough, especially in 5/8. Or you could somehow tie into that trim I see in the pic.

   Plain drywall anchors won't hack it. Even a regular toggle bolt would work loose and fail after a bit of use.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
2. 
   rbarch | Apr 12, 2006 10:47pm | #2

   As a suggestion, if you (and codes) can extend it only a short distance, say 4" or so, you don't have to deal with the increasing leverage problem.  You can cantilever it from the existing rail by using a stair rail connection kit from a hardware store or speciality shop.

   If you must use the longer rail, you might be able to mount the brackets using toggle bolts to grab the back of the gypsum board.  But since the brackets will not be founded in solid wood backing, consider using more brackets than normal to spread the load.   

3. 
   philarenewal | Apr 12, 2006 10:57pm | #3

   FWIW, nice rail profile and I really like the door casing.

   I agree with rbauch. 

   Plus, there has got to be a stud in the corner right next to that casing, no?  What holds the corner of the drywall there?

   Connect the rail sections with rail bolts and anchor another support to that corner stud at the very end of the rail.  Looks like you would have about 18" or so of rail between the supports.  Make sure the rail is returned to the wall too.

   If that won't work, would you consider getting a stock piece curved to the stair angle, so you can space the rail bolts at something more conventional?  Might cost a few bucks but it would look nice and solve one of the issues.

    

   "Let's get crack-a-lackin"  --- Adam Carolla

1. 
   DanH | Apr 12, 2006 11:06pm | #4

   Of course, if you have to spend more than $100 or so for a fix, you might as well just cut a hole in the DW. You can cut a horizontal slot behind where the rail will be, slide in a piece of plywood, and secure it to the back of the drywall with screws (and glue, if you can figure out how). You have just the (partially concealed) slot to patch, plus the screwholes to mud and paint.
   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison

4. 
   Piffin | Apr 13, 2006 12:39am | #5

   You could makea return to the wall and a rosette there

    

    

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5. 
   andy_engel | Apr 13, 2006 12:59am | #6

   Dan, if you decide to cut a hole in the drywall to install blocking, consider doing it from the other side of the wall. Often, that's an easier area to patch. At least there won't be a handrail in the way.

   Andy

   "Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein

   "Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom

1. 
   madmadscientist | Apr 13, 2006 02:44am | #7

   Thanks there is a return already installed its just in-the-plane in that picture so you can't see it.

   The inspector would like to see the handrail go all the way to the trim like shown...

   Andy: Thats a good idea there is a closet behind this so I can make a mess and no one will care.

   I'm thinking use two brackets-one right after the joint where the stud is and one halfway to the end held in with a heavy-duty sheetrock anchor??? Y'all think that'll be strong enough to be worthwhile or should I just go straight for the blocking from the back?

   thanks,

    Daniel Neuman

   Oakland CA

   Crazy Home Owner

1. 
   txlandlord | Apr 13, 2006 03:49am | #8

   Blocking form the back is probably the safest, afterall we are talking about a handrail to prevent folks from falling down the stairs. 1.5 hours work could save someones life.

   We always install a routed edge 1 x 4 on the wall prior to handrail. The brackets can them be laid out symetrically, without fastening problems.

   The pic shows one barely visable on the right.

    

6. 
   limeyjoiner | Apr 13, 2006 03:31pm | #9

   If you are thinking about fixing to the sheet rock then these are about the best anchors that I've used, regularly use them to fix cabenets and shelves to walls where the framing isn't conveinently placed

   http://www.constructionfixings.com/Assets/pdfs/HST%20hi-load%20cavity%20anchor.pdf

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/13/2006 8:32 am ET by limeyjoiner

1. 
   RRooster | Apr 15, 2006 07:02am | #10

   Go into the closet and block it..............now. 

   Grunge on.  http://grungefm.com