Hey Duane-
I am trying to get a nice round over edge on some soft curly maple and it is almost like I am getting chatter when I run it.
I’m using a brand new freud bit – 1/2″ shank . I’ve run a test piece through at high speed, low speed, medium.
Just doesn’t seem clean.
Any tips…
both pics are the same image
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Replies
Is the edge where the bearing is rubbing really flat? If there's any ripple in the edge, like from a so-so set up jointer, it'll telegraph to your routed edge.
Also, with a fairly big roundover, you may need to do the profile in a couple of passes.
Or the bearings in your router are going.
must be the router
switched over and it slicked right up
you get any golf in yet this year?
I noticed my clubs have moved to the front of the garage- itsa sign from GodNo Tag
Got 4 days of golf planned for the end of next week. Then a trip to Myrtle Beach in mid-April for 6 days.
I'm getting off to a quick start this year.
hit 'em straight.No Tag
suspect the bearing, the edge yur following isn't straight or yur trying to take too much in one pass...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Okay
I'll chuck it into another router and see what gives.
thanks guysNo Tag
could be yur guide bearing as well as yur router bearing... collective effort so to speak...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
I think the problem is the combo of heavy figure on a relatively soft hardwood. I've had a similar problem with heavily figured cherry.
Those alternating bands of grain have different hardnesses. If you're putting enough force into it, the bearing will dig into the edge a bit - the wood actually flexes. The next band is a bit harder, so the bit is pushed back with more resistance.
You can test this by setting up an auxiliary fence (one that the router rides against) to make pretty much the same cut. Instead of relying on the bearing, you're relying on the router edge. Obviously, you can't test this by making the cut so deep that the bearing makes contact. If your ripples go away, you've at least figured out the problem.
I'm also assuming you're not hogging everything off at once? That never helps...
-t
Make three passes, the last a finishing pass.
Hold yer mouth right and quit "Bosching" stuff up...
Look here , I was taking a NAP... Dammit..the wife is gone, the mistress is sleeping..jezzzuss.
Ok, yeah'..what?
Climb cut it and use a fence, if you don't know what I said..stop and let me do it, I can screw it up faster in real life and then figure it out.
BTW my la to has no any more, lost that letter aint that a hoot?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Ok, I looked at the HUGE picture.
dude, it never does rout clean, thats why it called " leave it to us" wood.
Ya know? this whole "sharing" stuff is counter productive in my mind , an its the only thing there right now except some paul guy that used four coats of Frenchy..and then asks " wassup"?
I could write a website..or a book..or..ok I see it now, this IS the website//////heyyy heyyy yeahhh yeahhh..damm.
What ya want again?
oh that..back cut , climb cut, expect sanding...expect a LOT of sanding, make a reverse block to help with the expected SANDING...raise the grain w/water and expect a LOT of sanding.
Bottom line,
Get good at SANDING ( scrapers chatter) you have to SAND it.....................................................................
This post was brought to you by a fingerprintless poster and all uses are not-disceranble by bodily oils or remanats of that one
3 p's..not bad..I havve to make them with ohhs and ells..and every one gets the fat wife excited...Its a miracle I can breathe.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
One thing I like to do is make my deepest cut, then take a couple of shavings off of the bearing surface with a hand plane.
Then one final pass with the router makes for a sweet finish cut -- it's almost impossible to dial in that kind of micro-adjustment with your router settings.
If it's really curly wood, prone to tearout, I might take that feather-light pass with my Rockwell 126 door plane instead.
Either way, one final pass with the router taking off a microscopic amount is the ticket.
AitchKay
NO. The only way to work that is SCRAPING and even then, the grain will fight you. WET the damm wood, and use glass..if you want glass smoothe.
making trim or household stuff, sand w/200 but use a conformed block.
It is end grain interloped with side grain, either shave it or abrade it, a hand plane ( unless bedded at 50 or higher) is still in cutting mode and will tear out the funk.
Moisten the stock, make a scraper to dial it in ( old saw steel, a file, is all it takes) and take a pass...if the scraper chatters, use a block to dampen it, then your 320-400 paper. Only if you are making a frickking piano, anything over 220 on wooden house wares is pointless.
Make a caul out of a bondo cast if need be, but never , never sand away with sponge pads or power units..impart YOUR self, not a machine.
Ok ....in a bind, use the actual router bit as a scraper, hand held..but for a house ful of trim? No way.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Wull, Geez,OK, yeah, sure, if even a light, slow pass with the spiral cutter doesn't work...... then sure, let's move on to the last 5% (or less) of the work that is presented to us, and whip out the scrapers. Lord knows I've got 'em, and a couple of 'em even have the textbook curl that we so rarely really need.But when we need 'em, they're the only thing that'll work. I'll give you that.The rest of the time, I'll take the path of least resistance, bein' a lazy SOB.AitchKay
Its curly maple what did you expect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sorry just had to add the curly
If it's a straight edge, I would use a plane to smooth it to a long even run before running the router over it in several passes. This stuff is hard to work, almost as bad as figured birch. The plane should be a York pitch (higher pitch than normal for figured woods) so youdon't get the tearout (which it will).
Otherwise use a scraper.
Curly maple is a beeeeeitch to work, but when finished right, is one of the more beautiful N. American hardwoods.
Duane said it right (has he ever been wrong on this stuff?....I think not!), unless you're doing luthier work, 220 sanding is as far as you need to go.
Okay- the new bit in a different router then
I will sneak up on it with numerous lite passes and then sand it down
thanks fellasNo Tag