I have some metal to cut and was thinking I could put one in my old chopsaw.
Some of the metal is thin walled so I think I’m ok cutting that.
But some of the metal is 5/16″ X 1 3/16″.
Should I stick with the saber saw for the thick metal? Thanks!
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Replies
A cutoff wheel will work for that. I've never used one in a miter saw (which is what I assume you mean by "old chopsaw") -- the geometry may be different from a true chopsaw, so be careful you don't launch something. Or use an angle grinder with a cutoff blade.
And don't do what I did a few weeks ago -- I was cutting some stock for a railing and when I looked down, my sweatshirt had caught on fire from the stream of sparks. After I put myself out and removed what was left of my charred shirt, I donned a shop apron and continued, only to light myself up again!
DOH! Some idiots never learn. ;-(
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
I looked at my post and I'm not sure if I was clear.
I'm talking about the carbide toothed metal cutting blades at HF.
Someone here mentioned ganging up metal roof panels and the blade cut it like wood.
How thick of metal (steel) can I cut with a carbide toothed metal cutting blade?
The metal is steel. Not aluminum or non-ferrous.
I have angle grinders and circular saws with carberendum blades but they wear out and are dirty.
If I stick one in my old miter saw it will be more accurate. And I can do angles.
I'm thinking I will clamp the metal down for cuts just to be safe and more accurate.
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Ahh. That's different. I don't think those blades are meant for anything thicker than sheet.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
That's what i thought. Maybe a carberendum in the miter saw is what I will do.
I'll check the rpms and the arbor size first. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
That, or if you have a lot to do, there's always the bandsaw route.
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Set you back around $250 at HF. It's what fabricators use for cuts that have to be more accurate than the cutoff wheel will give ya.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
I've used a bandsaw like that for heavy guage steel studs.
You could cut as many studs as you could carry.
I'm not buying tools right now. Money is tight. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
"I'm not buying tools right now. Money is tight. "
Never stopped me! LOL.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
(steel) can I cut with a carbide toothed metal cutting blade
Have cut 2" thick Al and Cu with carbide, nothing steel with carbide over 0.016 thick, and that was attached to backer board.
I often cut 1" thick steel with HF abrasive cutoff wheels, in everything from cheap 7" skilsaw to 14" abrasive blade on 14" Makita chop saw.
Have only seen the 7" and 14" cutoff blades at HF though, no 10" (unless you count using worn down 14" blades<G>).
see if you can hit ponyt up,i think he's done lots of cutting with hf blades.
i have used them for 1/8,they work well. lots of chunks flying ,so wear good glasses.i'd probably give it a try,if you have the blade. my bil cuts 2" alum with his.
i would use one of those handheld bandsaws [milwaukee] they do a real nice job on stuff like that.the older i get ,
the more people tick me off
I have an abrasive in my 1979 Dewalt 10" chop saw. Works fine, just slow on thicker metal.
KK
I used mine yesterday in a skilsaw to make a number of cuts on some 1-1/2 x3 perforated angle - typically used to make shelving. I'm guessing it's around .080-.100 thick. Cuts great.
I also used it a while back to cut some 3/16 x1 steel. Also cut well.
My bet is that 5/16 would work fine. for the $16 or whatever they currently cost, I'd go for it.
Thick stuff is often better than thin for this kind of cut - it's the shock of hitting the surface which usually does in the tips.
I've got 1 broken tip - probably from feeding it erratically or twisting in the cut. Not sure if it happened yesterday or when I first used it.
I tend to not watch the cut like I would when cutting wood - not interested in getting my eyes in line with the chips being spewed out. This results in cuts not perfectly straight.
In a chop saw, it'll feed straight, so as long as you carefully control the downfeed and hold the workpiece securely, it should work well.
I'd suggest a full face mask or good goggles - a chip in the eye could do some damage.
Don
Thanks Don. I'll try it. I've never used carbide tiped cutters this way.
I have used carbide in a machine shop for cutting steel but it was slow speed with lots of power, coolant, and steel (mass) behind the cutter.
Like you said, for $16 I can give it a go.
I will use safe procedures. Thanks for the safety reminder."There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Just a note: H-F is having a Holidays Sale. 41% OFF the MM! (with coupon) Price is $34.99+ tax. Check it out." Although I have the right to remain stupid, I try not to abuse that right"
Price is $34.99+ tax.
I'm waiting for the $29.99 special again <G>
you can take that back to harbor frieght,show them the tooth missing and they will give you another one. says on the package "lifetime guarentee"the older i get ,
the more people tick me off
As tempting as it is to save money, I think this is one time to reconsider.
I've cut metal ... all types, all thicknesses, using everything you can imagine. Last March, when a local tool house had an "Open House," I was pretty sure I'd already seen everything. Oops.
The Makita rep had this little guy: http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=20210
What first caught my attention was how smooth and quiet it seemed to be while cutting. I decided to try it.
I used it to cut full-size (!-5/8" deep) strut, 1/4"x 2" angle iron, and 3/4" threaded rod. No kick, no fight, and a smooth cut that didn't even bugger the threads on the rod - not even a little.
There's more to these dedicated saws than just a carbide-tipped blade. Apart grom the blade design and the extensice blade guarding, the saw also seemed to spin slower than the usual circular saw.
I assume that other metal-specific saws also work well.
My take is: I'm through improvising. I already have a band saw, an angle grinder, and a saws-it-all .... yet this tool is destined for my truck.
You mean like this one? I remebered I saw it a few weeks back.
http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/tls/1484668531.html
I'll email him and see if he still has it at a good price.
I understand what you are saying about the right tool for the job. I agree.
It's just that I need work. I've been looking but there just isn't very much and there are a lot of people looking.
Right now I have a metal fence to build for my own house. I have to cut the parts to size. I've been using my new Bosch jigsaw but it is slow going. I built a cutoff jig for it so it is accurate. But slow.
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Edited 12/1/2009 12:05 pm by popawheelie
Ahh ... the need for cutting metal. Besides cutting it, you need to hold it. Let me show you what I use.
First. to hold the workpiece, I use this little ladder: http://www.wernerladder.com/catalog/details.php?series_id=121
Note the way the rails make a pair of 'v-blocks' on the top of the ladder. These are ideal for holding the piece while you cut it. I often straddle the ladder like it were a saddle, and sit on the piece I'm cutting.
Next, cutting metal is a breeze with a small band saw. I use this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47840
With the blsde running in one direction, the saw doesn't tend to shake the piece around.
I just picked up the metal cutting Panasonic 15.6V saw.
I took a piece of my 5/16" X 1 3/16" steel with me and it cut the steel fine.
$30 with charger and two extra batteries that he siad don't work.
I already have the Panasonic drill with two batteries so I'm good.
I'll make a shooting board for it so I can line it up, clamp it, and cut.
One thing I noticed on the way home, the saw doesn't bevel so I'll have to made a shooting board with bevel in it for the beveled cuts. No big deal. There's not to many beveled cuts. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Excellent! Have fun with the project!