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Hidden Door

user-325902 | Posted in Construction Techniques on May 28, 2002 03:23am

I have a new project coming up, one that requires a hidden door that goes from one room to another. I have never actually done one before, but I have 95% of it figured out in my mind. The type of hinges I use will probably fill the other 5% if I can find the right ones. Then it occured to me that I’m sure one of you out there could offer some ideas on technique. So here is the scenario:

In this home theater, there is a door to the right of the movie screen that is left handed swinging into the room. The walls are very dark, and the hope is to create this “hidden door” so that it doesn’t distract you during a movie. I picture the baseboard running across the bottom of the door (cut of course), the door to be painted the wall color, no casing, no knob, and the only evidence of a door will be the 1/8″ gap around the door (there’s no other paneling on this wall to really hide the door). I think the dark walls will really help. I also picture using a magnetic catch that springs back at you when you push it in. There are two things that I haven’t totally figured out.

1. How do you have a wood jamb (for hinge strength) that is not seen from the front? I am planing on making the jamb 1/2″ narrower so that the sheetrock can hide it, and then using a special corner bead that has one finished side (some sort of plastic “L” moulding), I would wrap the corner. This way I only mud the front, and maybe caulk and paint the part laying on the jamb. Is there a better way to do this?

2. What type of hinge do I use and where do I get them? Since the door swings into the room it seems like the hinge would show. I assume that there is a special hinge that folds in a funky way to allow it to remain hidden.

I want to do it right because I’m a quality guy. Any advice?

QualityGuy1

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  1. OneofmanyBobs | May 28, 2002 04:59am | #1

    "Soss" hunges mortise into the edge of the door and

    are invisible from the front. You have to bevel the

    lock edge of the door to provide clearance as the

    door opens, but the front side should fit with virtually

    no gap. The casing need not extend flush with the drywall

    in front. The drywall can go over the casing. Just keep

    in mind the edge will be relatively fragile. You could wrap

    it with corner bead. Put 1/8 grooves in the wall every

    30 inches (or whatever the door width is). Create ####design motif that hides the existence of the door.

    1. akaCamiA | May 28, 2002 05:15am | #2

      Here's an ongoing discussion about this- there may be a few links that could be of some use to you.

      ...up north attitude...

    2. user-325902 | May 28, 2002 06:50am | #3

      Thanks for the comments. I hope I can find some "Soss" hinges locally, because I have about 3-4 days before I'll need them.

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