Replies

1. 
   ANDYSZ2 | Dec 20, 2006 12:22pm | #1

   How thick is the slab.

   I find a ten pound sledge to be as effective as any drill for breaking up 3-4 inch slab, thicker than that and I would get rent a big compressor and jack hammer.

   ANDYSZ2

   WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?

   REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST

    

2. 
   DaveRicheson | Dec 20, 2006 01:55pm | #2

   We have the TE 35 and the TE 75 in our shop. Looking at the Hilti web site, it looks like the 75 and 76 are the same.

    For that many holes, I would reach for the larger TE 75 we have. There is not that much difference in weight and it hits harder than the TE 35.

   If your slab has wire or rebar in it, buy an extra 1/2' bit. You will hit the reinforcement enough times to ruin at least one bit.

    

   Dave 

3. 
   IMERC | Dec 20, 2006 02:04pm | #3

   rent the Bosch Brute or a SDS Max.....

    

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

4. 
   Timuhler | Dec 20, 2006 05:31pm | #4

   We lease either the 75 or 76 or something and it is awesome.  We cut a 3 1/4" hole through a patio and it just ate right through it.  Drilling holddowns is an easy easy job now.  We lease it for $40/month and Hilti takes care of all the maintanence.

1. 
   CAGIV | Dec 20, 2006 05:59pm | #5

   2 questions.

   Is there an option to buy at the end of the lease and how long is it for?

    

1. 
   Timuhler | Dec 21, 2006 05:54am | #11

   Yes you can buy it and I can't remember how long the lease is.  I think it was 2 years.  Or you can just keep the lease going and get a new drill :-)  I'm sure the pricing will be different at that point though. 

5. 
   BossHog | Dec 20, 2006 06:07pm | #6

   I'm with Andy in thinking that a BFH (Big Hammer) is a good idea if the slab isn't too thick.

   If not a BFH, around here you can rent a 120V pavement breaker on a 2 wheeled dolly that you should be able to get in there.

   Growing old is mandantory. Growing up is optional.
6. 
   robzan | Dec 20, 2006 08:49pm | #7

   Look into the Metabo big rotohammer- the sds max one. I just borrowed one and it did great. My friend that i borrowed it from runs the yard at a big commercial concrete company and they only use the metabo. He says they are the best deal for the money and they use them a lot. Let us know how the expansion stuff works for you- I would like to know if it was worth it or if a sledge would be just as effective. Rob z

1. 
   LEMONJELLO | Dec 20, 2006 10:54pm | #8

   Thanks fellas, going to pickup a TE 56 today. Couldn't justify the extra 300 for the next one up. With four New bits, it's a dealAlready have 5 boxes of "Expansion Goo" in the shop so might as well use it before the humidity gets to it.Andy:
   4" Slab with thickened edge and started sledging ( did I mention it's under a deck w/7' to the bottom of joist, didn't take five little strikes to figure out that wasn't gonna work.
   Compressor/Jackhammer, nice but if I can get a tool out of the deal... Dave:
   from what i gather, the 56-76 are SDSMax and the 35 is Hilti configuration and a SDS Max adaptor I'm Using 1 1/2" bitIMERC:
   I thought of the Brute on it's little dolly when I first looked at the job. Gotta replace the bulldog wit something so....Tim:
   Thanks haven't got any negatives on the Hilti yet so guess what I'm buying this morning!!! Nice JLC article BTWBH:
   I got a 10lb sledge with wedge end at a swap meet years ago, believe me, Fun! if I could swing it. Low 7' ceilingrobzan:
   I haven't seen much Metabo here and no experience with their stuff. I've used the "expansion goo"(I renamed it before and it is pretty cool. Breaks it up into manageable pickupable pieces and not too messy.__________________________
   Judo Chop!

7. 
   RW | Dec 21, 2006 12:09am | #9

   I have the 76. Its a great tool and punches holes like nothing else I've tried, but it isn't what you want for busting a slab. Let alone the smaller one. You'll waste a lot less time and effort just renting a jackhammer.

   Real trucks dont have sparkplugs

8. 
   timkline | Dec 21, 2006 02:35am | #10

   Mr. Jello,

   I just read the instructions on Dexpan.

   See #3 under drilling.  Drilling depth is 70 -90%.   Not 100%.

   If you drill through the slab, the Dexpan slurry will run out the bottom.  This isn't the best product for slab busting, at least not 4" thick slabs.  Our experience has shown it to be a great specialized product for unreinforced extremely thick concrete and rock.

   A 60lb or 90lb jackhammer is what you really need.

    

   Drilling

   1. Drill holes using an air hammer drill and appropriate drill bit specific to the rock type.
   2. Holes should be drilled no further than 30-60cm (1ft-2ft) apart. Note: In reinforced concrete recommended no more than 20cm (8”) apart.
   3. Recommended hole diameter 38mm - 50mm (1 ½" - 2.0"). Depth would be 70-90% of the way depending on the type of rock/material to be removed.

   Mixing

   1. For regular safety reasons and mixing small amounts by hand, it is recommended to use rubber gloves.
   2. In a bucket, combine 1.5 Liters of water to one 5kgs bag of Dexpan. Or pour water and Dexpan as a rate of 1:3 units by weight.
   3. Mix well, using a drill and paddle is recommended. If mixing with a stick or other method, make sure powder is completely dissolved into the water. Mix to a slurry.

   Filling

   1. Clean holes before filling using air hose remove excess dust from drilling.
   2. Dexpan slurry should be poured into holes within 10-15 min. after mixing. Do not fill to the top, only fill the holes about 15mm (½” to 1”) from the top.
   3. Mix well and pour into holes while agitating the hole to make sure no air gaps are in the hole. Example: Using a piece of rod or stick to poke holes.
   4. For Horizontal holes, a grouting pump would be most reliable to poor.

   Cracking Or Cutting Time

   The cracks appear in 45-60 min. after filling, depending on the weather, rocks, and concrete type. The cracks become wider within time (maximun 48 hours expanding time).

   carpenter in transition

1. 
   LEMONJELLO | Dec 21, 2006 09:27am | #12

   Tim,
   Thanks, but right now I'm waiting for my slab to pop tonight (already drilled and poured).
   I've used DEXPAN several times before and like working with it and I've had 5 boxes in the shop for months now and looked like a good time to use it before humidity gets to it.Set the guage for 4" to 10" depending on location and drilled with my new hammer ( like hot knife through butter!)
   about 30 seconds per hole!The slab is actually really uneven thickness varying from 16" in one corner to 6" center to 4" opposite corner couple other test holes with 1/2" bit poked through at 8"( I broke though maybe 10 holes with the big bit)HO did all of this as DIY'er( Deck, tile and gutters) (and i suspect the slab too although I didn't want to ask because he is already experiencing a lot of grief right now, his wife is not too happy). Added gutters and downspouts in a bad spot and posts sit on slab, the erosion and the weight of the deck is sliding the slab away from the house and down the hill. So, pop the slab, pour piers, tie in to existing foundation( They are not attached via rebar or wire, nothing..)redirect gutters, etc., etc. Set up 2 beams and temp 4x4 posts to hold up the deck then mixed and poured.
   We'll see tomorrow...
   __________________________
   Judo Chop!Edited 12/21/2006 1:30 am by LEMONJELLO

   Edited 12/21/2006 1:44 am by LEMONJELLO

   
1. 
   timkline | Dec 21, 2006 07:45pm | #13

   What does your Dexpan cost ?

    carpenter in transition

1. 
   LEMONJELLO | Dec 21, 2006 09:35pm | #14

   100 a box, with four bags to a box, I only used 4 bags on this project. This is left over product so free.__________________________
   Judo Chop!

1. 
   timkline | Dec 22, 2006 05:31am | #15

   what's the volume per box ?

    carpenter in transition