Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 28, 1999 07:39am | #1

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   Will: It is almost impossible to give an opinion without more information. Are the walls wood, masonry, brick veneer,- interior finish? Are the hinges welded into a mortise, or on the surface. Edge welded or spoted thru the screw holes? (if any).

   A couple of ideas based on what you have. Several companies make continous hinges that are surface mounted. These are designed for high frequency applications. They work very well and will last. You may not like the commerical look if this is on a house. The brand name we use is Roton. They are not cheap. They cost us $96.00 to $120.00 depending upon the model & color finish we order. It is much more economical than changing the steel frames. Most steel frames are anchored from the back side when installed as the wall is assembled.
   Several options for anchoring are used. Might be able to give a couple of suggestions on how to remove the frame if you post a little more info. Usually they are a pure rascal to remove.

   Ron

2. 
   Will_James | Apr 28, 1999 08:18pm | #2

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   Ron,

   Thanks for responding.

   The doors in question are in concrete block construction, one on the garage with interior unfinished and one on the house with drywall interior.

   The hinges are set into a slits cut into the face of what would be the side jambs, and they appear to have been spot welded. There are no screws, only small depressions that might have come from spot-welding.

   If it's feasible, I would like to replace these jambs, both for aesthetic and for practical reasons (they provide a lousy seal). I welcome any hints.

   Thanks for your information.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 01, 1999 07:08am | #3

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   Will: Without looking @ the frames I would not make a specific recommendation as how to approach this: I will give you a couple of ideas to consider.

   1. Each jamb leg likely has 3 or 4 metal anchors that are locked into the back side of the jamb & extend several inches into the mortar joints.

   2. Before removal check to see what you have for lintels. Determine if they are load bearing & how much they may carry.

   3. You can use a hand-held demo. saw with a dry cut diamond blade and cut the wall from two sides @ the juncture of the backside of the jamb leg & block work. A saw with a 14" blade should cut half-way thru an 8" blk. wall, this will cut both the block & anchors. (based on the capacity of our saw). Once you have made the cut the leg should be free enough to remove. (the head is usually not attached to anything but each jamb leg) The jambs will probably be slushed full of mortar and be fairly heavy. They may need some help with a big hammer to start out.

   a. the down side of this is the great amount of fine dust you will create and the fumes from the gas engine on the saw. ( if you do this in your house you will have dust in every room. A plastic curtain helps a bunch but will not stop 100% of it.)

   b. We sometimes use a garden sprayer to put water on the blade as we cut. This reduces the dust about 99% but you have a mess to clean @ the btm of the cut & the blade will throw water and mud slurry up to the ceiling.

   4. Another method would be to use a hammer drill. Drill a series vertical of holes in the block from both sides ( if you drill thru from one side you will blow big holes where the bit comes thru the block) back at least a couple of inches from the back of the jamb. We drill a hole every 1" to 1-1/2" vertically. Then we use a wide cold chisel and 2lb. hammer, or a hilti type demo. hammer to remove the block. As you remove the block you will find the anchors and they can be cut of as they are exposed. This will widen the opg. and leave a rough face to trim out.

   5. If the existing opgs. are wide enough you could in fill over the metal jambs and hang a narrower door. This usually is not the best solution in the long run.

   6. Should you decide to attempt removal start with the garage.

   7. If you live in an area with enough population to support specialty contrs. you may be able to find a sawing company. These companies specialize in cutting concrete and have the equip. to do it quickly. They are expensive, but many times all things considered they can be the best way to go. If you are interested look in the yellow pages under concrete-break, saw or cutting. If you have any in your area they will be listed under the concrete heading. They will quote you a price. At least consider using one.

   8. It has been our experience that any removal is somewhat diffficult to a real nasty rascal. Many times however with careful planning the thought is worse than doing the work.

   9. I hope this has given you some ideas.

   good luck, Ron

1. 
   Guest_ | May 01, 1999 07:35am | #5

   *Good call Ron,The only thing I would comment on is that he can sound the jamb to see if it's filled with mortar (more than not will be) and if it's hollow, it could be a DIY project, but if it's full, I highly recommend an experienced contractor with the right tools. Problably cost as much for rental of all the required tools as having someone come in a do it right and safely.Again, good call.Gabe

4. 
   Will_James | May 01, 1999 07:35am | #4

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   I want to replace two exterior doors that are set in steel jambs. I would also like to replace the hinges, but they seem to be welded into the steel jambs. Is there a practicable way of replacing these hinges?

   If I were to cut out the steel jambs and replace them with wood (they are very old, with outswing doors), what would be the best kind of saw and blade to use?