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Discussion Forum

Hip ridge length

luke | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 5, 2006 04:32am

How do you guys calculate the length of a hip roof ridge?  I have been fighting with the guy that I work with for several days. Help me please!  I say that you should leave the hip ridge 1 1/2 longer then the actual length because of the thickness of the stock. Am I wrong?

luke


Edited 9/4/2006 10:35 pm ET by luke

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  1. User avater
    Huck | Sep 05, 2006 04:47am | #1

    View Image

    Depends on how you frame it. Pretty standard for me is the way shown in the pic, the fine line represents the centerline, or theoretical length line. As you can see, the ridge is longer (at each end that terminates in a hip) than the theoretical length by 1/2 the thickness of the commons.

    "...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain



    Edited 9/4/2006 10:02 pm by Huck

    1. luke | Sep 05, 2006 05:38am | #3

      Great drawing, thank you! Do you lay out the side cuts with a framing square?

      THANKS!

      Luke

      1. User avater
        Huck | Sep 05, 2006 08:52am | #6

        Yeah, I lay out the cheek cuts with a framing square.  If the pitch is 5:12, the hip will be 5:17, if its 6:12 then the hip would be 6:17, and so forth.

        "...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain

        Edited 9/5/2006 2:23 am by Huck

        1. luke | Sep 06, 2006 04:02am | #8

          You guys are talking my language with pictures.  Great drawing.

          Thanks

          Luke

  2. Framer | Sep 05, 2006 05:24am | #2

    The length of the ridge can be found by building length minus building width + the thickness of the ridge.

    Using a 2x rafter and 2x ridge if you had a building 40' x 20'

    40 - 20 = 20 + 1-1/2" = 20'1-1/2" (Ridge Length)Joe Carola



    Edited 9/6/2006 5:10 pm ET by Framer

    1. luke | Sep 05, 2006 05:42am | #4

      That's the same example I used with him. Thanks for the quick reply!  What do you use to layout your side cuts of the hip?

      Luke

      1. Framer | Sep 05, 2006 05:53am | #5

        Luke,Here's a drawing. Hope it helps.Edit, Dont pat attention to where I wrote Hip length. It should've been Ridge Length.Joe Carola

        Edited 9/6/2006 5:14 pm ET by Framer

        1. Piffin | Sep 06, 2006 10:05pm | #13

          Is he asking for the hip length or the ridge length? You are showing ridge, but I thought he asked about hips 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. Framer | Sep 07, 2006 12:19am | #14

            "Is he asking for the hip length or the ridge length?"He's asking about the ridge length because he said this in his first post, "How do you guys calculate the length of a hip roof ridge?"I screwed up in my first drawing to him because I wrote "Hip Length" under the ridge measurement. I also wrote hip length somewher else.Here's the correction.Joe Carola

            Edited 9/6/2006 5:27 pm ET by Framer

          2. luke | Sep 07, 2006 04:52am | #15

            Guy's

            I really appreciate all the great information! The information you guys share is very nice.  I have lurked around here for a long time now and have learned volumes. 

            Thanks,

            Luke 

      2. Framer | Sep 05, 2006 12:39pm | #7

        "What do you use to layout your side cuts of the hip?"A lot of times when people ask about the side cuts they're referring to the side cut table on the framing square. If that's what your talking about you don't have to use that because the saw setting for the hip and jack cheek cuts will always be set at 45° when the hip is running at 45°. If you mean the plumbcut for the hip, then it's as Huck said whatever the pitch is on 17.For a 5/12 pitch the the hip is 5/17.Joe Carola

        1. luke | Sep 06, 2006 04:12am | #9

          The cheek cut never changes....with any pitch?  I was reading in the roof framers bible and for a  3/17 hip and valley the numbers are... if I read correctly, 9 degree for the miter and 44 degrees for the bevel.  I always thought it was 10 and 45.  

          As you can tell roofs are not my strongest talent.

          Thanks

          1. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 06, 2006 04:13pm | #10

            For a regular roof, the bevel on the saw will always be 45° because the hip runs 45° in plan view.

            The actual bevel on the jack or the hip when measured changes as the pitch changes, and that is what the side cut numbers are on the framing square.  Since none of us use a handsaw to cut these, all we have to do is set the saw to 45 and we are good to go.

          2. Framer | Sep 06, 2006 08:21pm | #12

            "The cheek cut never changes....with any pitch? I was reading in the roof framers bible and for a 3/17 hip and valley the numbers are... if I read correctly, 9 degree for the miter and 44 degrees for the bevel. I always thought it was 10 and 45."What you're reading is the end of the overhang at the fascia line. Those numbers are when you cut the fascia cut square instead of plumb.Those numbers have nothing to do with the saw setting on the hip and jack cheek cuts. Those cuts are always 45° no matter what the pitch is because the hip running at 45� in plan view shows you that the hip and jack cheek cuts are 45°Joe Carola

  3. blue_eyed_devil | Sep 06, 2006 05:06pm | #11

    I'd say your wrong, unless you intend to do something with the top of your last common to accomodate your extra ridge length. You would also have to make a small angle cut on the tip of the ridge.

    there are many ways to skin the cat and just as many ways to put a roof together.

    blue

     

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