FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Hip Roof Questions?

blownonfuel | Posted in Construction Techniques on February 7, 2008 05:40am

Hello. We are looking at adding on to our home which has a Hip roof 4/12. The home is 40′ long x 30′ wide. I was up in the attic looking at the framing and noticed that the joist run the length of the home and are parallel to the jack rafters and not the common rafters. There are a few braces going to the ridge board and the common rafters have been tied together with two 2×4’s about 3 feet down from the ridge board to keep the rafters from swaying. There are no supports that I can see to keep the walls from pushing out. There are no joist that tied into the common rafters. Is this a problem?

Thanks

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. frammer52 | Feb 07, 2008 07:12am | #1

    the 2x4's sound like collar ties.  How old is the house?

    1. blownonfuel | Feb 07, 2008 04:46pm | #6

      Thanks frammer52. The 2x4's are running perpendicular to the common rafters and tie them together only to keep them from swaying. They are no collar ties on the common rafters. The house is only 6 years old. It is out in the country so I doubt the builder followed code. Actually this guy was building the house as a rent house for my parents and skipped out on the job and left alot of work to be finished by my father and I. I ended up with the house and now want to add on to it.

      1. frammer52 | Feb 07, 2008 08:14pm | #11

        collar ties should be up higher

        1. blownonfuel | Feb 07, 2008 09:35pm | #12

          Agreed. Should have said rafter ties.

  2. frammer52 | Feb 07, 2008 07:13am | #2

    fill out your profile it helps answer questrions.

  3. Jim_Allen | Feb 07, 2008 09:11am | #3

    It's probably not a problem. If it was, it would have manifested itself somewhere else.

    Your instinct to tie the walls together is correct and there are many ways to accomplish that. The most obvious way is to tie the walls with the ceiling joist but there are lots of ways to skin this cat.

    Are you noticing any problems?

    Bob's next test date: 12/10/07

    1. blownonfuel | Feb 07, 2008 04:49pm | #7

      Hello Jim. No problems yet but I want to add on to the house and don't want this to become a problem. I'm worried the walls will soon start to bow out and the roof line will start to sag. The house is 6 years old.

      1. User avater
        Huck | Feb 07, 2008 05:43pm | #8

        I want to add on to the house and don't want this to become a problem

        A good time to add some rafter-ties.View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com

        1. blownonfuel | Feb 07, 2008 06:59pm | #9

          Huck I think the only solution I have right now is using collar ties and set them just above the joists.  Any other ways of doing it?

          Thanks

          1. bridge_dog | Feb 07, 2008 08:08pm | #10

            Hard to give a solution with out a picture. But you could possibly use purlins just make sure they are legged down to a wall and not the ceiling joist. Another option would be to beef up the ridge with a beam or legs to a bearing wall. The walls won't blow out if the ridge can take the roof load.

          2. blownonfuel | Feb 08, 2008 05:37am | #16

            Hello. I added some pics online if you would like to take a look.http://picasaweb.google.com/blownonfuel/OurHousePics

          3. Piffin | Feb 08, 2008 01:56pm | #22

            It looks like plenty of strongbacks and supports there. unigue situation, but probably OK.

             

            What iswith the playwood ceiling tho? Is that over a carport or porch, or everywhere? 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          4. blownonfuel | Feb 09, 2008 05:21am | #26

            Hello Piffin. The plywood over the carport, that's a whole other story.

          5. User avater
            Huck | Feb 08, 2008 05:39am | #17

            Huck I think the only solution I have right now is using rafter ties and set them just above the joists.

            That's exactly how I would do it!View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com

          6. blownonfuel | Feb 08, 2008 07:04am | #19

            Thanks Huck. But the more I look the better it looks. I posted some pics online. Take a look if you would like.
            http://picasaweb.google.com/blownonfuel/OurHousePics

          7. bridge_dog | Feb 08, 2008 07:07am | #21

            Looks pretty good. I may have used bigger purlins, but I come from snow country. I also sometimes overkill.

        2. IamtheWalrus | Feb 08, 2008 06:36am | #18

          Collar ties would probably be easier,but if he was gonna be cutting into the roof during for the add on,would adding a beam under the ridge work too.As a self supporting ridge.Locating posts would be tricky though on a 40' run.

          1. bridge_dog | Feb 08, 2008 07:04am | #20

            Collar ties do very little to resist outward pressure on walls from roof loads. The purpose of a collar tie is to resist upward pressure caused by wind.

            Edited 2/7/2008 11:05 pm ET by Bridge_Dog

      2. Jim_Allen | Feb 08, 2008 12:43am | #13

        As a precaution, if I was concerned, I'd run a 2x4 wall tie every 4' and tie the rafters together on top of the ceiling joist. It's not technically a perfect solution but in light of no problems showing up right not, I think it would probably suffice to add a little more wall spreading resistance. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07

  4. User avater
    McDesign | Feb 07, 2008 03:38pm | #4

    Welcome here!

    Is that handle FC, or TFD?  Or maybe, be still my beating heart, Fuel Altered?

    Forrest



    Edited 2/7/2008 7:42 am ET by McDesign

    1. blownonfuel | Feb 07, 2008 04:41pm | #5

      Hello and thanks for the welcome. Fuel Altereds for ever!!!  Although I do like anything that burns "fuel".

  5. CraigTwo | Feb 08, 2008 01:34am | #14

    Hello. We are looking at adding on to our home which has a Hip roof 4/12. The home is 40' long x 30' wide. I was up in the attic looking at the framing and noticed that the joist run the length of the home and are parallel to the jack rafters and not the common rafters. There are a few braces going to the ridge board and the common rafters have been tied together with two 2x4's about 3 feet down from the ridge board to keep the rafters from swaying. There are no supports that I can see to keep the walls from pushing out. There are no joist that tied into the common rafters. Is this a problem?

    Thanks

    1. If the ridge is braced stiffly to solid framing below (2x4 down-braces should be doubled over 4' long. At 30' wide your 4 pitch should rise about 5'), this relieves some of the outward pressure of the rafters against the exterior walls.

    2. If ceiling joists are parallel to ridge, the end joists should be tied to the outside walls with blocks that sister to the rafters. These should be 48"o.c. max.

    3. If rafters are spanning over 14' - 6" level and are 2x6, they need an intermediate brace (what you are calling a sway brace) midway (give or take). If you wanted to do it right you would make the 2x4 into a "hog" or stiffback and downbrace it every 48".

    Regards,
    Craig
    http://www.theroofsmith.com

    1. blownonfuel | Feb 08, 2008 05:31am | #15

      Hello Craig. Thanks for the help. I uploaded the pictures I took of my roof framing. You can take a look if you want, click on the link or cut and paste. Now that I look at it, it seems he used purlins and placed them over walls. Maybe it is not as bad as I thought.http://picasaweb.google.com/blownonfuel/OurHousePics

      1. CraigTwo | Feb 08, 2008 02:43pm | #23

        If you're worried about it, and can afford to do so, I'd add collar ties
        to the roof framing. Around here (NC), building code requires them at 48"o.c. Also, I'd think about down-bracing my purlins. If there's no walls to brace to, you would need a stiffback below. None of this is any fun with duct work and insulation in the way (I feel your pain).Sometimes structural problems don't show up until much later. But if you're OK with the way the roof is right now - in other words, unless you're trying to correct a specific problem - I wouldn't go overboard "fixing" the roof framing now.Regards,
        Craig
        http://theroofsmith.com

        1. User avater
          Huck | Feb 08, 2008 06:19pm | #24

          Since someone else will do it eventually anyways, I'll go ahead and get it over with: collar ties are in the top third, and are there to prevent uplift from separating the rafters from the ridge, whereas rafter ties are in the bottom third, and prevent wall spread.  Semantics.

          OK, now on to what I really wanted to say.  Cool website, and looks like a cool program.  Did you develop this yourself?  I'm an old cut-and-stack guy, but haven't done a real roof in years.  I have dedicated a page of my website to it, with links to more pics.

          Do you find there is much actual cut-and-stack framing going on these days?  Seems like everywhere I look around here, its all truss roofs.  I hope your "tool" does well, and was just wondering if you had any feel for where the majority of your customers are located.

          I would add: if you brace your purlins down to a wall, its preferable to choose a structural wall with a footing, like a shear wall.View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com

          1. CraigTwo | Feb 09, 2008 01:39am | #25

            In the Charlotte area, the production house and apartment builders will use prefabbed wall panels and roof trusses. But the custom home and remodel market is still very strong. These projects are generally "stick built."Thanks for taking a look at "The Roof Smith". I guess I finally got off my butt and did what I had wanted to do for a long time. I hope to eventually make it into a general "carpenters math" tool, with stairs, landings, picket spacing, etc.Regards,
            Craig
            http://www.theroofsmith.com

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Grout-Free Shower Panels

Engineered-stone shower panels are waterproof, but proper installation relies on tight seams and silicone sealing.

Featured Video

Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With Viewrail

Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation.

Related Stories

  • A Postwar Comeback
  • With Swedish Arts & Crafts Precedent
  • Natural Simplicity
  • A Grand Rescue on the Coast

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • With Swedish Arts & Crafts Precedent
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data