Replies

1. 
   Gene_Davis | Jun 10, 2006 06:02am | #1

   Your arrangement should involve a two-ply header truss, to which will attach (hang) the hips and hip jacks.

   If your truss supplier was thinking of you, he supplied you with a lay-on truss to slap onto the stepups.  See the attached.

   
1. 
   davidmeiland | Jun 10, 2006 06:10am | #2

   That would be very thoughtful. I've not had the benefit of one of those.

1. 
   Gene_Davis | Jun 10, 2006 06:11am | #3

   And now you will know to ask the next time.

1. 
   davidmeiland | Jun 10, 2006 07:27am | #4

   Yeah, usually you get a lumberyard quote that says 'trusses per plans'. OK, show me the truss plan before I order them. The last set I put up didn't even come with bird blocks. I've been in a lot of attics and I've never even seen a layover truss like your drawing shows.

1. 
   toolpouchguy | Jun 10, 2006 01:27pm | #5

   what is a bird block ????

2. 
   dearyeats | Jun 10, 2006 07:15pm | #7

   Gene,

   Thank you very much for the PDF diagram.  It was about what I thought should be constructed, but I was surprised to find no specific reference in the voluminous packet of inserts that came with the truss order. 

   Chris

    

1. 
   Gene_Davis | Jun 10, 2006 07:51pm | #9

   Go back and look at my little hallucination showing a typical arrangement.

   The truss drawings should show, in layout, the position of the two ply girder truss.  Most all truss layouts will dimension from the end wall to the near face of the girder.

   Look at my pic, and see the seven (7) monotrusses that are hung from the girder.  The same dimension that locates the girder is used to position the outboard faces of monotrusses 1 and 7.  The hip monotrusses are then hung into the corners formed, and the remaining 5 endroof monotrusses go on layout, in between.

   Depending on your trussmaker's designer's practices, you were either furnished with the hangers for all these trusses, or the heel corners of all of the monotrusses have a "jack-up" notch made into the plated corner, so that hanger ledgers, nailed to the faces of the girder and end trusses, make up the means of hanging all those components to the girder.

   For some trussmakers, you need to tell them you want a lay-on "sleeper" at all hips, and then even tell them further that you want the upright webs of the sleepers to fall on truss layout for the adjoining endwall commons.  For others, those which I consider having "the right stuff" as truss suppliers, this will come as part of the package without asking.

   If you don't get a sleeper for a hip, you need to cut and fit blocking in between all the step-ups, from the girder up to the peak, so as to get good bearing for sheathing joints and cut ends.

   Good luck!

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Jun 11, 2006 07:17am | #12

   Gene, your pictures show a set of hip trusses that use stepdowns and a layed over framework. His set of trusses is so small that he probably won't have a flat top on his girder. The hips will run from the corner of the fascia to the peak of the girder.

   I'm only guessing without giving it any thought. His is so simple that there is nothing to show. Just fit the parts where they land. Keep everything 24" from the girder.

   blue 

1. 
   BossHog | Jun 11, 2006 01:53pm | #13

   "His set of trusses is so small that he probably won't have a flat top on his girder."

   They may or may not - It depends on the manufacturer.

   The last couple of companies I worked for would build corner sets up to 16' long. But the one I work for now will only build jacks up to 8' long. Others do it with diagonal girders.

   So I was kinda guessing when I explained to him how to lay it out. But building hips with short jacks seems to be the most common in this part of the country, so I just guessed at it.
   Atheism is a non-prophet organization.

2. 
   BossHog | Jun 10, 2006 02:19pm | #6

   Welcome to Breaktime

   There are a lot of different way to do hip ends in trusses. So it's hard to give you any help without having any idea what you're working with.

   Some information like what state you're in, the span of the hip system, and anything you know about the hip system would help us out a great detail.

   If you have anything from the truss company, can you scan and post it? Or even take a digital picture of it?

   There are a lot of talented people here who will help you out if you give more info.

   If you ever get lost - Remember that moss grows on the north side of a highway worker's shovel.
1. 
   dearyeats | Jun 10, 2006 07:24pm | #8

   I'm building a small room addition in Indiana, and the trussed hip roof I referred to has a span of 23'-3".  The only layout information provided was the location of the doubled-up girder truss and the remaining full-span units.  Although it might be asking a bit much from the truss supplier, it would seem that a computer-generated layout could readily provide ALL the layout locations.  I assume that the techniques are so common for framing crews as to be afterthoughts.  But we don't frame daily (being jacks-of-all-trades), and neither of us have used hip trusses before.  Thanks for your assistance, however.  I will attempt to be more specific in future postings. 

1. 
   BossHog | Jun 11, 2006 03:11am | #11

   You're probably right that the truss manufacturer assumes that the rest of the layout is fairly simple if you have the girder setback. And it isn't bad once you've set a few of them. But it can be confusing the first few times.With your 23' 3" span, I assume your hip setback was 7' 6 3/4". Everything is based off of that dimension. The 7' 6 3/4" dimension is to the FACE of the first ply of the girder truss. Forget that the 2nd ply exists as far as spacing is concerned. From there it's 2 more feet to the FACE of each successive truss as you work away from the end of the building. And working your way back towards the corner it's 2' LESS for each side jack. For the end jacks - Take that 7' 6 3/4" dimension again, and that the distance to the FACE of the first full-length hip jack. And again, each jack is 2' from there going in both directions.I hope that makes some sense. If not let me know and I'll take another crack at it on Monday morning when I get to work.BTW - What truss company did these come from?
   A fine is a tax for doing something wrong. A tax is a fine for doing something right.

3. 
   5brown1 | Jun 11, 2006 02:25am | #10

   A call to the truss mfgr. can sometimes clear up confusion. When building my house, I called regarding some questions on hangers, etc. and the guy I talked to was very helpful and also could not believe that there was someone who actually read the information they provided.